N.O.S.

Now that looks tidy. Always a good omen when you can drive it up the ramps :cool2:

Is that short-sighted or what? I know money is tight but a lot of expensive toys could easily be made worthless without tracks. A bit of collaborative investment now could prevent that from happening all too soon. Simply unbelievable - unless there is an alternative which has not been widely publicised yet?

A few years ago a very nice example was sold from a Landrover dealer in Suffolk, I trust it was preserved.

Epona - like most threads on here this one isn't dead, merely waiting for a great post such as yours!!! I'm really pleased you found yourself here, we'll even forgive you for being so late! I too was blown away by the interest it received and the efforts people went to in order to establish the significance of what we had. I did find out a little information about the family but was reluctant to put it in such a public place. It is very difficult to trace forward in time compared to going back, and you could certainly help in that respect. One puzzle in particular which is yet to be resolved is why such an expensive stone should have been commissioned and then apparently not delivered / installed. I will send you a pm and hopefully we can get in touch? Tony

P.S. Roy does not think too highly of my plan - reckons the 2 valve pump given the range of engines it is fitted to will deliver plenty enough fuel for a mere 270. I on the other hand am looking forward to not having to prime the pump every time I use the truck with any more than a fortnight's break in use (however do folk with no priming lever on the pump get on?).:-D

And we had it with tractors being fuelled from water jerrycans - the continual slinging on top of lorry load, being tipped out and retrieved often by hydraulic grab, had caused the enamel lining of the cans to break away. A small flake of enamel spent weeks floating around and occasionally blocking the lift pipe. Whenever the tank was drained it sat discretely on the bottom and could not be seen. So what gives with the excessive arcing on points then? I also had similar not not identical problem last very long run out (very very hot day) - engine revs and power slowly died away but very smoothly unlike your truck, almost as if the governor butterfly was closing (first thing we checked). All electrics appeared fine. 2 valve pump with priming lever checked out ok as far as we could tell. Never did find out why but I need to ensure it doesn't happen again so am very tempted to fit a pump too!

Check out the photo sequence - Volvo tumbling in 6 uses same main picture as 3 (note position of ditched truck, parked cars and position of onlookers in white shirts between Volvo and buildings). Funnily enough when the pics did the rounds before I never noticed this!

Hi Jeff, If you're still pulling your hair out next week I'll get a chance to look at a rad mount for you. The other way to work it out would be the height of the central mounting pads for the bonnet assy which you would think should run level from the cab? Tony

Thanks Andy, that's cheered me up no end!

What I had planned to say was - I sent a copy of the current tax disc for the vehicle to which I wanted to transfer the number - can't see why proof of the vehicle existing should be any greater than when anyone routinely re-taxes a historic vehicle. But then again not much makes sense any more in this ridiculously complicated world. No problem, I'll get an MOT. Like I said - 'Big sigh'..........

As compared to DVLA issuing a tax certificate you mean? :D I understand where you are coming from, farmer Bernard - but you have to laugh don't you.

Try this one: I run a 1941 U.S. Staff car on a historic plate with no MOT. Not a problem. I buy an interesting correct era registration plate from a reputable dealer, pay them to do the transfer application. Dealer comes back and says DVLA require an MOT before they will transfer the reg. I say car is taxed historic no MOT needed, they go back to DVLA but get same response. So I say ok just put it on a retention certificate and give me a letter to say you tried, paid fee and got MOT required response from DVLA, and I'll sort it myself. So - anyone else had this problem, and can any of you advise how you managed to resolve your similar issues with DVLA? I can't help thinking if I could only get to the right person at DVLA they could sort this easily for me. Big sigh........

It certainly does Trevor, but this would not account for the excessive arcing at points. Which one imagines could only be caused by the electrical components themselves (or some unusual oscillation of the distributer driveshaft, caused by excessive wear?…..).

I woke up this morning with the very same thought! The only components which could have an effect on primary circuit are coil, wiring, condenser and points themselves - the high tension circuit can do what it likes. The only other variable is the voltage applied to the coil. Oh and the ignition switch. What if it had dirty contacts - could this cause heavier arcing at points? You could run a wire direct from battery to coil and isolate wire from switch to rule this one out.

On my 353 the height of the top of the upright timber spar (there is a detent in the pressed metal elbow indicating the top) is 48" above the floor of the body. Check how far down the pocket the timber should go (I can't pull one out to check).

I've never come across a positive earth system CCKW. All wiring diagrams I've ever seen in the various TMs and later reference works (e.g. GMC CCKW by Becker & Dentzer) all show wiring diagrams for the various trucks dating from 1941 onwards with an earth lead on the negative post of the battery. TM9-801 dated 1944 clearly shows a negative earth system, so I guess it is reasonable to assume that the mass of original and replacement CCKW components around are compatible with neg earth systems. If this is correct, I wonder why this truck had been converted to positive earth? Is this a clue in tracing the problem?

:sweat:

I believe most 7.5t slidebed recovery trucks can just about cope with 3.5t (body gear is a bit heavy so the normal 4t capacity of 7.5 tonners is reduced).

Oh DAM it - another one I didn't get.

I'll fold, but on a technicality you should see my Aarvark before raising a beaver…….

This could be a far bigger problem than we realise. I guess the only way to minimise the risk of ending up with counterfeit plugs is to buy them from a trusted source. I get my NGK from a long-established local independent automotive supplier being a main agent for many years for Lucas and others, who I am confident will be sourcing their stock direct from the manufacturers (not that I actually know that for sure….). Given the typical annual expenditure on plugs by each of us, is it really worth buying from an unknown, untraceable source?

Correct - an Aardvark. Mine clearance vehicle. Thought a bit of shuttering might be loosely related to excavations. Sniffing around for clues - well really…...:iamsmiling:

?

Shooting butts?

And did you pay any attention to the posts on your own thread about GMC plugs all those years ago? :nono: :n00b: :-D P.S. Although I think the conclusion was that pretty much any make goes - it is all down to personal experience/preference. All things being equal that is i.e. not counterfeit plugs!