N.O.S.

Would it help if you went into the office , blew your nose into one of these and chucked it on the floor? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Novelty-Tissues-£10-Note-Design/dp/B005UXLWA4

I tried this on a recent job, but had to abandon the very nice Filter King filter/regulator because it is just about impossible to alter the angle of inlet / outlet pipes due to filter housing construction and we only had one suitable place to locate the unit. The filter on the S.U. pump is not the best to rely upon and needs a better filter somewhere in the line. :argh: We used an inline filter between tank and pump to save potential problems with clogging the minuscule pump filter but your point about reducing pulse between pump and carb is a very good one. Despite looking hard, there doesn't seem to be a decent alternative to the Filter King out there. :???

Having thought about it carefully, I just got even more confused! :-D The other thing about isolators is to get one with an adequate capacity. Any arcing or dirt build-up on the contacts will create a poor connection and could, especially with 6V , give slow starter issues. Only had problems with one - on a GPW. Reckon there were other 'lead connection' issues which became aggravated by the additional albeit small resistance of the isolator switch. These are the two I use (but several makes to choose from) - the red plastic key for GMC and smaller (6, 12V), anything bigger (12, and all 24V) the metal key. Prices are just a guide - should find a little cheaper but gives an idea of quality and capacity:

Surely it makes no difference where the isolator is placed - whichever way, the battery still sits as a potential energy source, but without a circuit until the terminals are joined.

Pos. side offers better protection, as an earth fault anywhere in a neg. side system might take a feed back to earth. Whereas the only unprotected part of a system with pos. side switch is the wire between battery and isolator switch.

Agreed. They supply S.U. pumps, now in both mechanical and electronic form. Here is link to the technical data: http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-su-fuel-pumps-history Note Low press pumps are rated at 1.5psi, plenty good enough to replace a mechanical lift pump (I've used them on a couple of ww2 engines). I believe 3 - 4 psi is enough to overcome the float shut-off needle valve of most ww2 carbs? So best steer clear of the HP version.

Guess that is U.S. dollars, i.e. £650 for 2 = £325 each, and as that is with new tires/tubes fitted (say £120 - 150 tyre £20 tube £55 fitting) then the balance of £100 - 130 per wheel seems a very sensible estimate to get the old ones off. If you buy a couple of rims and get them freighted to you (say £50 + 25 freight each) you're looking at potential saving of around £25 - 55 per wheel?

Well ok yes that's all very well - but apparently you don't need to use them all :-D:cool2::shocked:

No, I'm wrong. Similar style, but your gun rim has a greater offset than the DUKW.

Pretty certain that is a DUKW rim. 18" tyre?

Brake drums - agree with comments above, blasting to clean up is fine but avoid a rough finish. If after blasting they are uneven it would in any case pay to get them skimmed. With regard to springs (a topic for debate on many vehicle forums), it seems that it may in fact be beneficial! See this from a patent abstract (not that you should believe everything you read in patent blurb mind you ): This is a divisional application of application No. 487,920, filed October th, 1930, and relating to springs and method of producing the same. It is generally known that the number of oscillations up to fatigue or fracture of springs, particularly leaf springs, is related with the properties of the surface of the springs. It is also known that small scores in the surface of springs 10 such as occur due to rolled-in scales or grooves and small crevices of other types, give rise to points of incipient premature fatigue or fracture. It is further known that by etching or sand blasting such crevices can be flattened out whereby the fatigue and fracture of the springs is delayed and the life is thus somewhat extended. The present invention resides in the discovery, that by a structural improvement of a very thin superficial layer on the surfaces of springs, the number of oscillations up to fatigue can be increased by 600-1000%. This improvement may be described as compacting the said thin superficial layer or increasmg the tensile strength of it. The compacting may further be described as such alteration of the thin superficial layer, as may be effected by a sand blast or similar means, and which is known as applied to other articles than springs and for other purposes. Obviously the optimum eifect only occurs when other causes of fatigue such as crevices are either absent from the start or have been overcome by a separate process. Couple that with the fact that shot peening (similar process to sand blasting) of spring leaves is part of the production process of many modern springs, I don't reckon it would be an issue - I might be a tiny bit concerned about very thin material like car or maybe Jeep springs, but they have to be cleaned somehow!

There tends to be a correlation between non-availability of original parts and post-war pattern parts. If there was a ready supply of N.O.S. parts there was no need to reproduce them. But this might be country specific, i.e. if the French were busy making new elbows there is a good chance you won't find any originals in France, but maybe somewhere like Norway still had a good supply of originals? Where did all the Norwegian spares go? Hewitt Marine couldn't have had the lot!

Sounds like a different SAE flywheel housing. Early engines had just one size but later engines like the 6B can be fitted with a choice of SAE size housing, so it pays to check what you need first. If you're lucky you might be able to obtain / swap the necessary housing and flywheel but breakers are often not willing to split a complete engine as the foreign buyers sometimes get wary when an engine has been tampered with. Also worth remembering that some engine types are available with optional housings to accommodate starter on either side - another very useful feature for us!

Oh - I thought it was one of the Dulux Wartime Collection - WHITE WITH A HINT OF CORDITE.

And I can recommend Rusty Bits in Suffolk :-D

I can imagine why Garry is wanting to avoid using his bar grips on the snow and ice in his back yard! Not the best….. How many trucks are there in iceland anyway? My guess is that all of Eddie Stobart's and Norbert Dentressangle's fleet combined would cause a nose-to-tail traffic jam around the perimeter road :-D My guess is that there are no 20" tyres running commercially in Iceland. All trucks will be on 22.5" rims (or maybe the odd low profile if imported secondhand so fitted - not too many height restrictions over there). The possible exception might be military trucks on the USAF base on the island - there could be a source of 20" tyres there but might be bar grip? As suggested before, purpose-made 22.5" tubeless rims with the correct offset will be expensive and almost as much to import as a set of tyres, you still need a matching set of half-decent tyres if they can be found locally. I reckon cheapest solution would be to get a set (and a couple or more spares maybe) nice take-offs on rims palleted up for shipment. Try Dave Crouch. I'm now thinking around £1000 would be a more realistic price to see a set of 4 bought and delivered assuming a pallet costs about £400? (that might be way out of course).

Ha Ha just realised I hadn't uploaded the tyre size table in my post! Post now edited. You can see the effect of alternative sizing by using lower profile 22.5 tyres.

At least with all the Cummins merchandise around you won't be stuck for presents for the Cubed, Rosie! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CUMMINS-Diesel-Engine-Manufactuer-Filtration-Power-Generation-BADGE-2-/141540608742?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&hash=item20f47a4ae6

I'm waiting to see the cowl too, Jeff! :shocked: Even so, a top job R3! Pretty much all of these modern boxes have an overdrive top, which should replicate the original box (CCKW 4th is top). Some have pto provision but whilst the pto drive mounting might be similar, all that I have seen in UK are on the right hand side of box (is this universal on new boxes?) - the CCKW is on left. Great pic Tom - she must have been like a Rolls Royce to drive compared to the Bedford alongside :-D Tony

My guess is that all Icelandic trucks will be running on 22.5" modern tyres, either full profile or low profile (smaller O.D.). I think tyres are designated width (mm) x 20 or so width (mm) x 22.5 throughout Europe - so the only metric part of modern designations is the width. Below is a table showing the equivalent 22.5" low profile tyres matching an original 20" tyre, but to use these you'd need a set of rims with same offset as the Bedford rims, which will cost you more than a set of tyres. I think all 20" sized tyres are tube type (so can be used on the Bedford rims), and 22.5 are all tubeless and require a rim to suit. Unless you are after using cast-off tyres already on the island, then since all tyres have to be imported into the island you may just as well get a set of quality (i.e. as new) 12.00 x 20 Goodyears off the Leyland Daf 4x4s, as m109a3uk suggested. If they come on rims there will be less cost in changing. I would think you need to budget £500 plus freight from UK for a good set. Or pay more for the tyres but less freight through the Icelandic tyre importer?

Looks like you have done admirably in that respect! Although I think the extent of the alterations you've had to do is almost tantamount to confirming that it is not possible to put a 6B into a CCKW :D

Without doubt there have been more than enough GMCs used abused as lime spreaders in the 20 years following the war to establish with some certainty the weak points. I can only go on what I've been told by other people, some no longer with us, but I'm not aware of any ongoing issues with transfer boxes. However there are still a few former operators around who can testify to the CCKW's strengths and weaknesses. One such example is an operator of several trucks who used to replace the banjo axle diffs with units from Chevrolets. He claimed that despite being a bit faster they were actually stronger than the standard CCKW diffs. What do you reckon, Tom? :cool2:

The weakest point was the short intermediate prop between gearbox and T/box, but this is now uprated so I wonder what the next weakest was? On heavily abused trucks it was trunnion bars breaking and diffs (first Timken then Banjo) but that is not likely. Also gearbox input shafts were not that generously sized, so that could be twisted off if someone's foot were to slip off the clutch I guess.

Might just be a touch of tenneritis Degsy.

Someone's been using steroidal wax on that GMC crane truck……...