jenkinov

Well the good news is the Process has worked ..Flushed the Tank out with some old petrol and inspected the tank ...No visible liner and no active rust ...Soo good news , Filled the tank with fresh petrol and the cleared the tap and the bike fired up no issues ..... I think I can consider the process a success ... Now onto replacing the tyres ...I have ordered some Dunlop Unigrips Update to follow Jenkinov

The tank seam that I was concerned about has withstood the removal of the tank lining and at this stage I am comfortable that the tank is watertight.... I intend to avoid putting in a new liner unless I have no alternative ...I have been quite amazed at the ability of the new fuel to dissolve tarmac ...a hole in my drive where my son left the petrol tank tap on .......plus paint removed from both the jeep and triumph bike ..plus the propensity to dissolve tank liners . When the bike came it had a been fitted with a modern 6v replica lucas horn ...sprayed black ..we spilt some petrol on it and it removed all the paint in a few minutes ...its currently a shiny silver anyway enough ranting about ethanol ............................... The tank is a nice blue/black on the inside ..what will be interesting is the effect of the new petrol on the kurust surface ...?

Hi ..I live in Knaresborough North Yorkshire and found 2 relics in farm fields near my house ...The 1st appears to be a Guy GS truck ...and the second is a Karrier lorry .Whilst both are in civilian trim it has been suggested that they are both ww2 lorries . Both have sat out for 20 plus years and are in a very poor state but if your interested i can pass on details Jenkinov

Gents .. Thought I would share a problem ...and idea .. and experiment I recently purchased a triumph 3SW ..and whilst I am extremely pleased with the bike it became apparent there was a problem with the petrol tank .. The bike ran ok but as soon as I turned the petrol tap off it became blocked . a Quick examination revealed that the petrol tank had been lined at some previous point and the liner had failed and the entire lining was cracked and peeling , the New ethanol in the petrol was making the situation worse as it dissolved the lining,,hence a daily sludge . I eas aware that the petrol tank had been repaired on a bottom seam so was cautious of the alternatives available .. Whilst considering options i left petrol in the tank interested to see how severe the ethanol affected the lining but examination after a few days showed that whilst it dissolved enough per day to cause the daily sludge ..it mighttake years to clear . At this point i decided to drain the tank let it dry and review options ... I thought i would ask a professional for help and contacted a loca petrol tank specialist ..interestingly they were not interested in taking the job on but suggested I use Nitromors Varnish remover (in the Yellow Tin) they also told me that if it touched the outside of the tank it would remove the paint ,,, I therefore decided to use Clingfilm to cover the exterior of the tank ..I left the petrol tap. Pipes and tank lid on but covered the airhole in the petrol cap with a heavy gapper tape ....I burnt my hands with Nitromors paintstripper restoring my first bike at 15 ..So donned Heavy Gauntlets , goggles , extra layers of clothing and poured half a litre on Nitromors varnish remover into the tank .. after checking for no leaks i started to turn the tank ..and kept doing so for 30 minutes ..initially i could feel the liquid moving in the tank but over the 30 minutes heard the liquid noise turn to one where i could hear debris in the tank ...eventually i could just hear the continual clatter of debris and opened the cap ....(dont breath in) to see what looked like brown rubber leaves ..I turned the tank upside down and using pliers pulled out a mass of the ..old lining I could see that the process was working but lining remained so I added 9 class marbles and the last 1/2 litre of Nitromors Varnish remover .. I repeated the process and had a washbasin full of lining that resembled dirty brown leaves I then washed the tank clean with water ....Examination revealed 98% of the lining was out and that the old lining had failed ,,It appears the lining had been put onto rust and that and leaving the tank dry had caused the initial failure .. At this stage I decided to Kurust the tank ..So after allowing a week for the tank to dry .. I repeated the protest adding a full 200ml pot of Kurust .. Again the tank was turned for 30 mins ,,examined and turned for another 10 ,,,, The excess Kurust was drained and the tank left to dry for 2 days .. Thats the stage I have reached .....My Gut feel is that if i re apply a lining it may simply cover corrosion and I want to avoid a repetition of the issues I have faced so I intend to wash the tank and then see if i can run it just as it is ... Jenkinov

Gents ..Whilst tracing some scarce Triumph parts I stumbled on the following Thay appear to manufactuer some parts for the welbike ........No idea on accuracy or Quality an interesting link Jenkinov

Hi ...All insurance is regulated by the Financial Services Authority ..FSA If you have a complaint or concern about your insurance you could consider writing to the insurers and raising a formal complaint ..This should be acknowledged and responded to fairly promptly ..If not satisfied you can then consider escalating the issue to the FSA ... Jenkinov

MY Uncle has photos of his time with the Eighth Army and after fighting through Africa they landed in Italy and fought to the end of the War .,,Ther vehicles were repainted mostly by hand and they looked very sad by the end of the war .. I agree that we often over restore the old war machines ......The worn look is good Jenkinov

My suggestion is to take a series of Photos of the body engine bay ...Axles as many as possible and post them on the forum ....With the combined knowledge of the HMVF members you will get a consensus plus tips and advice ... Regards Jenkinov

Must admit very excited about Ponderosa .....Tanks , jeeps . bikes beer spam .....And good company Jenkinov

All below from canonsuperstore .com General Information: Also developed as a light artillery piece, the 7.6mm Light Minenwerfer was initially transported on a carriage, and this combination was pulled by either horse or vehicle. This weapon could also be dismounted from the carriage and placed on the ground to fire. This ground firing method providing for a much more stable firing platform and afforded a slight increase in maximum range. Later on as the war settled into static trench warfare, the weapon was more commonly set up as shown and used in the high arc firing mode. Eventually discarding the carriage as a means of transport, the weapon would then be transported by three of the crew simply by adding the carriage wheels to the axle on the base plate and securing shoulder straps between the weapon' base plate and the three crew members and then man-pulled from position to position. Each Minenwerfer Company was assigned two 7.6cm mortars. There was one Minenwerfer Company per each Infantry Regiment. In addition to the 25-cm version two others of 7.6-cm (2.99-inch) and 17-cm (6.7-inch) were later produced. Except for size all three were similar in construction. The 25-cm minenwerfer was a rifled muzzle-loading mortar firing a shell with a pre-engraved driving band. A short shell was at first employed but by 1917 had become obsolete. A longer HE shell was adopted as shown in Fig. 18A. The shell was described in a 1918 publication by the British Army as having 'great moral and destructive effect due to concussion even against troops in dugouts. Also, it could clear a space 33 feet (10 m) or more in diameter in a barbed wire entanglement. While others fired other types of shell, e.g. smoke and gas, the 25-cm seems to have been restricted to HE. Propellant charges were first dropped down the barrel, then the base of the shell inserted in the muzzle so the driving band fitted the rifling and slid down to the breech. Ignition of the propellant charge was by friction tube. All three minenwerfer were mobile with the wheels being removed on coming into action. Unlike the British and French the Germans were prepared to some extent for the trench warfare which began towards the end of 1914 during World War 1. Having studied the action around Port Arthur during the Russo-Japanese War (1904-05) - and no doubt with an eye to the future - they had developed the 'minenwerfer' (mine thrower), a rifled mortar, manufacture of which commenced in 1908-09. By 1914 160 of 25-cm (9.8-inch) caliber were available. Worth a look ...they list a mortar similar to yours sold on 2007 for 12,000 dollars .... Looking forward to seeing the photos Jenkinov

Gents below in the 1st photo is a German trench mortar on display at Verdun 1 ) model with long barrel; the Verdun Memorial, Fleury-devant-Douaumont, France 2 Photo 2 is a German trench mortar on its carriage comparison with your photo suggests you have a Genuine minenwerfer a real find ..it would be great to see more photos Jenkinov

Adrian .... I am unlikely to make it down to War and Peace ..but I am attending the Ponderosa ww2 weekend in Heckmondwike ..which looks set to be an excellent show One of my Neigbours was an apprentice at an Engineering Company and they stripped out the Engine and also repaired the Barrel ..The m10 had been purchased for its scrap value of £1000 ....The Barrel had been cut with a blow torch and the first attempt to rejoin it proved unsuccesfull ..So the barrel was re cut and a piece of Steel rod was inserted into the barrel and the Barrel re welded ...If its the original barrel the steel rod may still exist and the barrel as such is blocked halfway ....? He has asked me for some photos ,,which i will print from this String Jenkinov

79x100 appreciate your E Mail and description ..Learning more each day which always helps ..a neighbour gave me a photo of what they thought might be a triumph but examination of the photo showed it to be a BSA M20 ..tank has a 41 on a plain Square ..rider is wearing battledress and a crossed rifle badge above sargeant stripes ... 41st division did not exist in the war ..any ideas .... Regards Jenkinov

Ponderosa last year was great and is shaping up to be even better this year ....I will be there with my Jeep and Kids... Is ken serving his famous spam sandwiches in his liberated french cafe ,,, Chris Willys MB Bantam T3 Triumph 3sw

Gents find enclosed photos from G503 that show Jeeps and trailers in Okniawa in the late 40s and early 50s .. My jeep might havfe been one of these it was refurbished in Japan for the Korean was and i have a US army ordnance corp plate ..As the Engine was likely beyond repair it was fitted with a new replacement but refitted with all the 6v equipment ? Doubt it went to Korea as it then went to Greek under one of the US funding projects and served with the greek army being fitted with a tow or HMG...The Greeks used these jeeps until the mid 80s when they sold of the old ones and an enterprising Brit brought in 40 ... one of my friends in the Yorkshire MVT also has a Greek Jeep and they are a real mix of parts ..personallyI i think the Axle ,wing ,engine swops were mostly done by the military if anything collectors have tried to reverse the swopping and sought mostly Willys or Ford components ...I like the Mix Jenkinov

Gents ..Thanks for the advice so far ..very usefull ..next Question is linked to tyres tyres its,,,, currently fitted with 3.25 x 19 with a good square tread ,unfortunately the tyre walls are cracking with age so best to look at some replacements ..I was recommended to look at Mitas tyres interested in what size is best and any recommendations on a good military pattern Jenkinov

79x100 Thanks for the feedback ...I have looked at some other early photos including the famous armoured 3sw and you are correct they do look like rubber Grips.... As soon as i got my 3SW i was inspired to search the web for info and one site advised that the frames date was stamped and visible just below the seat ..if you get a good torch and look under the seat from the rear you can see the seat mount 2 letter ..followed by the month and year... my frame is stamped 08 40 The triumph factory in coventry appears to have been bombed on around the 26th or 28th of Oct ..At which point manufacturing was moved I understand they were producing about 300 bikes a month so around 10 a day ..My bike was either in an early batch in the month and distributed before the bombing or was one of a reported 90 built from salvaged bits after the bombing ,,.. In terms of the rear carrier ..I will just keep my eyes and ears open and be patient.. I think your idea of an early 40s bike is very good and the photo you have supplied is Quite inspiring ..I do like the decals and Bulldog on the Tank ..one to add to the possible decals list unless someone has already copied it ..Must ask where did the photo come from ...?..and what is the eastern command ... Lots of great detail on the photos ..the controls appear chromed ...but the horn is clearly different to that fitted on my bike which I think is actually a Matchless horn ...So I need to keep an eye out for a Lucas Horn. Thanks for the help Jenkinov

79x100 Thanks for the feedback ...I have looked at some other early photos including the famous armoured 3sw and you are correct they do look like rubber Grips.... As soon as i got my 3SW i was inspired to search the web for info and one site advised that the frames date was stamped and visible just below the seat ..if you get a good torch and look under the seat from the rear you can see the seat mount 2 letter ..followed by the month and year... my frame is stamped 08 40 The triumph factory in coventry appears to have been bombed on around the 26th or 28th of Oct ..At which point manufacturing was moved I understand they were producing about 300 bikes a month so around 10 a day ..My bike was either in an early batch in the month and distributed before the bombing or was one of a reported 90 built from salvaged bits after the bombing ,,.. In terms of the rear carrier ..I will just keep my eyes and ears open and be patient.. I think your idea of an early 40s bike is very good and the photo you have supplied is Quite inspiring ..I do like the decals and Bulldog on the Tank ..one to add to the possible decals list unless someone has already copied it ..Must ask where did the photo come from ...?..and what is the eastern command ... Lots of great detail on the photos ..the controls appear chromed ...but the horn is clearly different to that fitted on my bike which I think is actually a Matchless horn ...So I need to keep an eye out for a Lucas Horn. Thanks for the help Jenkinov

a high proportion of Jeeps that survived the war are a mix of Ford and GPW parts ..The reason is that after the war all the vehicles were basically trashed and needed heavy refits ...The Reme set up plants in europe as well as German manufacturers re booting the car industry by rebuilding allied vehicles ..same happened in japan ... A vehicle wouls arrive at a refit plant and be broken into component parts ..axles / wheels/body/wings engine alll went into great piles and these were then refurbished by teams ,, When it came to rebuilding ...A chassis ..2 axles from the pile ..a body ..hence all thed parts became mixed ..hence i have a willys mb chassis ..a ford and rear front axle ..a ford bonnet ford bin lids ford wings . 1 ford seat and one willys and a willys engine ... In terms of script parts all ford parts generally have the F but the Ford script was not applied to bodies after about 42 ,, I can appreciate that as a ford GPW owner you will want as many ford parts as possible but the willys bits are also part of the vehicles story and persinally i think its quite interesting that my vehicle is such a mix Jenkinov

Stefano ...your 3hw looks stunning ..and from what i understand 90% of the spares would match a 3ws ..can i ask where did you source the canvas grips ..or did you make them ? and the blackout lamp any idea on how best to trace an original .... Comment appreciated Jenkinov

Stainburn woods .. Ajmac ....the current woods location must have been extremely boggy in the war period ..it has proved perfect for forestry ..They have cut large ditches and then planted the trees on the top of the ditches ..The cumulative effect of the trees is to dry the forest floor up but as soon as the trees are removed it quickly becomes boggy ...The forest is quite treacherous to walk on because of the deep ditches every few metres ,,,Where its been logged the stumps restrict movement and visibility and the dense woods are dark very close ..its not a traditional forest more a tree farm The armour on a tank would be pitted by the corrosion and thin sheets might be ruined but the true armour plate would doubtless exist ... I must admit i do feel inspired to have a further hunt ... Jenkinov

Ford 369/Nigel Must admit to being exceptionally pleased with the bike it needs a little bit of work bit was in far better condition than i had hoped for ,,The only part that I saw on army photos that was missing from mine was the small rear parcel rack and for completeness i thought i would keep an eye out for one. But I also agree it looks quite good withour a rack... interested in hearing more about armour and embarkation .. Any triumph owners sw or HW in the club ....? Regards Jenkinov Willys MB 1942 Bantam t3 1942 Triumph 3sw 1940

Thanks gents for the update ..Nice to think its a Gate Guard at Bovington it looks significantly better than it did in the play park at Beverley ...must admit to being interested in the idea that another vehicle is still stuck in the woods ..I went a couple of weeks ago and a large section of woods by the car park has been cleared but the remaining woods are still very extensive .... I agree the forestry lads will probably be the best source of info Jenkinov

Always fancied a WW2 motorcycle and acquired a triumph 3sw on E bay ...Photos hopefully enclosed interested to know if anyone has spares for a 3sw ..In particular the rear rack which appears smaller than that used on the 3HW Any tips or advice appreciated Regards Chris Jenkins Willys MB Bantam t3 trailer Triumph 3sw

The Stainburn Churchill .....I was interested in asking if anyone in the Forum knows the current location of the Stainburn Churchill ..I grew up in Harrogate and had heard of the churchill but despite a few attempts to find it in the extensive woods could not and then saw it had been recovered ... I moved to Beverley and the Churchill was sited at the now closed Beverly transport museum in the Play Park and effectively was a climbing frame ..I had hoped it would be restored but it looked rather forlorn and neglected . When the museum was closed I understood it had been put in storage but then heard a rumour that it had been disposed of ...possibly to a Home Guard re enactment group in the newcastle area ,,,/ I would be interested in hearing the full story if anyone had any info ... In terms of another tank in the woods at Stainburn its a probable story ...the vehicle however is likely to be sunk in well above deck hight as the ground is very marshy and because of the woods you would literally have to be within 20 feet to see it ...If the turret was removed then the hull could be below the surface so you are onto metal detectors to locate it ....The woods are quite significant in area ...very dark and rough so you would need a large team to search the woods in a reasonable timescale .... I live within 10 miles if the woods so would be happy to join a search .. Regards Chris Jenkins Willys MB Bantam T3 trailer Triumph 3 sw