R Cubed

Just got back from site, arena marked out and barriered off other attendees now on site in there desired positions and making camp nicely. One FH70 155mm on site the other on its way in a few days time along with some other Artillery from somewhere else which should be a bit of a surprise, and a U.S. 155mm Howitzer and 105mm Howitzer on their way. Not much else to say no real need for pics as not much has changed from the last pics I posted last night. Stay tuned it should be hotting up in the next couple of days, more pics will follow.

Yep quite right, or go down the route of classic vintage with a lister, at least it will go on for ever but cant lift them, oh the dilema.:cheesy:

Towards the end of the season had another problem starting it and some times when it was running it would cough and then just peater out and die :mad: Tracked this fault to the very nafffff crankshaft seal just behind the generator, it seems to be an ordinary push in liped seal but there is no way of holding it in its place, should be a press fit, not a press fit any more :mad: So with the crank pressure as its a two stroke its enough to blow it out up the shaft so you get no crankcase pressure to push fuel/air up into the cylinder and it wont start....... So if you have problems with yours try looking at this seal it might be the problem, when I get a chance will try to post some more pics.

Here are some pics of one of the three fields, not much going on there but it is only Mon evening, full steam ahead over the next couple of days to set out the site, half a dozen vehicles in temp camping field waiting to be place on main site once its marked out. H.Q. booking in tent just out of shot off to the right.

Well if you have the pair of gun racks in the cab it would have to be two Garands not reasonable on price though :nut: :nut:

What is the difference with the Antar's some have a small rad (not very wide and one rad cap) and others have a huge rad and two caps. Do the different types have different towing abilities.

I will be up there every evening after work helping so will try and get some pics each evening and then post when I get back home stay tuned. Its getting close now to the start of a great season and celebrations :-D :-D :-D

Hi all, does anyone know if there are different suspension springs for various CCKW's. I think they are different between split and banjo on the front at least ? So for Banjo: Do the front springs differ for LWB to SWB, with Winch or without, hard cab of open cab, gun ring or not ? So for Split: Do the front springs differ for LWB to SWB with Winch or without ? DUKW: Do these differ from LWB CCKW's front and rear, the DUKW is much heavier isnt it ?

Is it front wheel drive as I cant see a diff on the rear axle, the axle tubes are far too small for half shafts also there are what seems to be reduction gears on the front hubs just behind the spokes :wow: Tell us more.

Yes, do go on this is what these sort of forums are all about If people get board they probably arnt interested in building a trailer ect those who might self build or modify will then know that this is the place for accurate references ect.

Nothing in my inbox :cry:

Yep sorry to say it is a 2 stroke thing... Before it had a problem and fried some phone chargers it was fine you could load it up and the voltage would stay within a couple of volts of 235 ish after the frying incident it would produce the 280-310 ish off load if I then lowered the revs you could get the volts down but as you loaded it more the volts dropped away so I have to be careful not to switch off load otherwise the voltage climes again..... Cant see anything else which might regulate the voltage there is nothing on the outer windings that I can see unless its inside them :mad: All I can think is that those two diodes and the resistor must affect the magnetic field generated somehow.

Governed to a set RPM.

Just had a measure up of the inside diameters of a nato towing ring and also my gun lunette, nato ring has a 3inch dia inside, the gun lunette is 3 1/2 inches inside.

As the years march on it may become an essential item to be able get in and out of bed, you are not getting any younger you know. Get it now before the prices go up :cool2:

The size of fuel hose you need to fit over the original steel fuel line is 8mm this is what I have used and it is a good fit so should be good for you too, are you getting much dirt in the fuel filter by the carb if not you could do away with it, presume you still have the original fuel filter down on the chassis rail by the fuel pump, they are good and filter well, as long as all the bits are in there :cool2: Could do away with the steel fuel line and connect a hose to the fuel pump then in to a after market filter then on up to the carb, this would mean the fuel filter is the otherside of the engine and away from the hot exhaust manifold.

I have to admit to having one of them nasty little cheep 750watt portable generators, which now does not maintain a steady 230-240 volts more like 280-310 :mad: anyway I have striped it down to find the fault and was surprised to find no electrical connections to the rotor, no brushes or sliprings, but it does have windings on it but thats it. The windings are in two halves, having two ends each, one end of each half is connected to an end of the other half except one pair of ends each run through two diodes and there is also a resistor in there tooo. Any idea how it regulates the voltage. :embarrassed: Here you can see the two halves. Two diodes and a little resistor tucked in under the diodes. Got the diodes and resistor set out, here you are what do you all think then ! Does this have some effect on limiting the magnetism in the rotor ? The numbers on both of the diodes is BY 255 the resistor colours are Brown, Green, Orange and Gold which looks to be 15K ohms. In carrying out some electrical tests on this little setup I have discovered that the two diodes are in series with each other and accros the outer ends is the 15K ohm resistor. The resistor tests out ok giving a reading of 14.95 K ohms. the two diodes however are a different story testing each one in reverse you get infinity, which is what you would expect, testing the correct way there is a reading of 11.60 K ohms and the other one give a reading of 12.15K ohms. Is this right ?

Sorry Mark not much to tell, except priced more than I could stretch to and far too far away, huge transport costs just to much of a logistical nightmare with the budget I had to play with. Nope, thats not right. :blush: No second thoughts I wold have one or all of them now if I could, but its my smallish budget which is the problem :mad: Damn lottery...... No.... not this time around. :mad: :mad: :mad:

Thanks guys, looks like 2 1/4 inches is the one then just got to get a bit now !!!

Yea, ok I guessed it would be imperial, however the front clamp by the windscreen has a 3/4 inch gap down between the bolt flanges so there is room for lots of play, dont want to over clamp it if its a bigger size than I thought !!!! Any idea's.

How dare you say bling on my truck, it will be painted probably black when I get a chance :red: It drive very well seems to pull like a train, still got some jetting issues, bit stuttery when the second chokes open up, may have increased the fuel consumption alot due to the very black sooty exhaust :undecided: More road test required oh dear what a shame never mind. Yes already told, and yes race tuned it is, wearing out all the back tyres due to wheel spin, cant keep the darn thing in a straight line pulling away

Hi all, can someone measure the diameter of their legs for a CCKW gun ring mount, the three which clamp to the cab, I need a pole for the front clamp by the windscreen but cant decide what the diameter should be ?

The only problem with those are that you have to suck the fuel up and over the cap, the can has to be used up right. This is what I have made cost quite a bit but its the biz.... uses a quick release coupling by the quarter turn tap and a plastic hose as a sight glass.

Had a good day on the truck today, continued making the throttle linkage as you all know the original linkage runs up by the head and manifolds to the arm on the carb, all well and good when it is all inline, so what do you do when its not inline !! the new carb has the throttle arm on the far left as it is mounted on the engine so must be a good 8 inches over from the original position. Here in the first pic you should be able to see the arm on the carb yes its about as far away as you can get, look top left plated arm with big hole in end. Linkage from throttle pedal will come up between the head and inlet/exhaust manifolds like it does in the original set up and move up and down, somehow it needs to get altered to backwards and forwards :cool2: Here is the finished linkage, and the pedal has a nice feel to it too, not stiff or heavy. :-D Here you should be able to see up down on the back vertical rod translates to backwards forwards on the carb arm. All done by magic..... Oh well managed to get a small air filter to fit so did not need to cut a hole in the bonnet :cool2:

Why should I need counselling, there's nothing wrong with me.......... It's all you lot that are mixed up I'm fine :nut::nut::nut::nut::nut: