R Cubed

I have just had a thought will the right colour of engine paint make my engine run better :nut:

They are Noise filter units, there are two connections on them, the ones you can see in the pic which is engine side and the other connections are on the other side of them through the bulk head. One filter unit is connected in line with the feed to the ignition coil, the other is connected in line between the ammeter and the dynamo regulator. Nice touch to the engine compartment detailing, point to note the holes in the bulk head for the connections of the filter units which pass through the bulk head are about 1/2" in diammeter, this is why they are that size !!!! There are also two more filter units down the side of the dynamo regulator by the engine side panel, one is the Armature filter unit, and the other is field filter unit.

See my edited post No 77

Thanks for all the suggestions in this thread of mine of possible faults, it is always good for alternative suggestion. The problem I have is that the exhaust manifold ports are very thin round the mating faces where they contact the cylinder head, this has resulted in them corroding and flaking away to the point now that with the two manifolds bolted together at the base of the carb I cant get the exhaust manifold to bolt up tight before the inlet manifold is tight, so I have to split the two manifolds and try to make some room, or make some new manifolds :cool2:

Yes thanks, could not work out why they were there until it dawned on me that the fixing studs dont stop the manifolds slipping down so they put some sleeves in the inlet ports as a type of dowel.

PM sent.

on line form done..:-D Now done again and have received e mail conformation on 30/11/11

There is also usb versions one is called a see snake and its only about £30.00 on Amazon.

conque is looking good, is the J.A. injection system working well, looks like you are doing well fine tuning it. Glad to here it's going to be out on the show circuit next year....

moral of this story.........When working on vehicles or above them take all loose bits off your person and put on bench. maybe if all the forum members were to come round and give a hand to turn the tank upside down and give it a good old shake it might fall out, I mean how heavy can it be............:nut: What about you and Mike's WLF's they could do it couldn't they.

bit of an update to this thread, had a couple of hours free today and made a start to rule out the noises on my engine. started by disconnecting the vacuum line to the hydrovac to rule out air leaks on that, also the vacuum line to wipers, no change on either. then dropped off the fan belt to rule out the alternator and water pump, no change on that either. The first is a squeak this now seems to be a wheezing sound and it looks as though it's a vacuum leak on the far ends of inlet manifold ports to the cylinder head joints !!! The second noise which is a knock this now sounds like an exhaust blow as it is much louder on the manifold side than the other side of the engine, the two could be connected as the exhaust manifold is very close to being beyond any use and the fact that the lnlet is bolted to it might mean I need to change both !!!!!!!!!

No I think the AA man is asking for a jump start

Managed to get hold of the end threaded part of the hydraulic recoil ram which bolts through the end of the sledge. Its about 4" long and has a thread of 1 1/8" x 12 this should be part of the end of the hydraulic ram rod, will also need a full nut and a castle nut to go on the outside with a split pin through the hole. But was gas axed off in the de-comissioning of the gun, this needs to be fixed so barrel will slide if needs be :cool2: I am looking in to getting the ram re thredded all though it will then be about 4" shorter, but that should only be a problem if you are going to fire a live round and full charge :shocked: I wont be doing that !!!!!!

oopppss :blush:

So will these replace all vehicle reg docs in an owners posesion ?

I used 5mm ply and made the hinges out of some off cuts of steel plate, bent and welded to hold a cut down nail which fits the holes in the hinges on the cab. Problem is the ply is flimsy and am having issues with the hinges snapping the ply so my MkII version will be ply and inside an ally sheet to add strength and weight. This was from the trip to Normandy 2009 on the beach to Arromanche.

What you need to do is put your vehicles up on mushrooms...... no not the ones you eat, the stone ones you use to see grain stores standing on.....

See even mice have taste when it comes to what vehicles to hide in :-D

Its a good idea half doors on open cabs, I have had mine on our truck now for 2 or 3 years, keeps the wind and rain out a bit and you can still see well.

Can also mess up the canvas and scratch the paint on the truck :cheesy: not to mention getting all the mouse bits off the interior too :cheesy:

Are you on about the one at Bordon Hampshire just off the A3 ?

What sort of vehicle is in Cat D ? What sort of size/weight is a vehicle in Cat C ? What does this bit cost ? I know its a very good idea to have training at professional training school, but do you have to !!! could you just take the test :nut: !!!!!! How many times can you retake the test ? What are the sorts of minor, Serious or Dangerous faults can you give me an idea ? When you say driving commercially you mean for hire and reward / working as a driver for a company ? If you want to just use it to move your own equipment about, do you need to have the tacho card ? Is there a year before which the truck is exempt from having a Tacho ? So have car licence, get medical, do and pass the Cat C then go on and do the Cat C+E ? Is there a time period between the cat C and taking the cat C+E ?

So what is the process of going from an old style car license to being able to drive artics do you have to do the ridged first then the artic ?

Wanted pics of the 105mm howitzer hand spike, what the end is like, and what the shaft is made of.

Maybe this should be in the I am stupid section !!! but here goes. Can you put L plates on an artic and learn to drive on public roads with a qualified artic driver in the passenger seat like you can do with cars ?? Of course having an old style driving licence but with out the C1+E ? Idea of this is to gain experience of how the trailers and the size of the unit performs at junctions, bends and reversing it ect. First things first though this would only be done after some hours in a private car park to get use to it.