R Cubed

Not sure at the moment :nut:

Are there any other American mv's which use the same sort of gauge but has a longer capillary ?

Thanks Pete, had a good read of that post although a completely different gauge I got the jist of what was going on, Stripped my gauge down and tested through only to discover it also had an earth issue inside the gauge, pics to follow. Yep, did not realize the gauges needed an earth to the case however just earthing the case did not help as it was due to corrosion inside the gauge case itself.

Thanks for the direction will give that a try

Hi all does anyone know if it is possible to get a GMC style water temp gauge with a longer than GMC length capillary tube on it and what it might have been fitted to.

Hi all getting round to sorting out the fuel gauge on my truck, never been connected since I have had it. Well I have got the fuel gauge and float sender out on the dinning room table and cant get it to play can anyone out there confirm how it should work !! the variable resistor on the float works fine ranging from empty position at 1.5 Ohms to full position at 29 Ohms. The gauge however seems to be operating back to front, but at best will only read just over the E mark but in operating the float the needle moves between the emptiest point to just over the E mark. Have 6 volt +ve feed to one connection on gauge the other connection of the gauge to the screw term on the float sender and the sender housing to earth -ve also have noticed in manual it looks like the gauge case needs earthing too which I have done. Any other suggestions..... that I might have missed.

All you need is to get a new one piece seal for a Dodge weapons carrier, they are the same size and have molded corners, then you need to open the screen outwards pull out seals from the 3 sides, clean the grooves out properly and then slide the new seal into the grooves carefully the hard part is doing the corners time and patience and some silicone grease and blunt screwdrivers is the way to go. Dont forget to look at the new seal carefully as they have a natural bend to the profile so if you put it in the wrong way round the lippy bit will bend away from the windscreen support frame. But don't do as I say as you might get hurt.......

Try these links the first is Charlies SD1 Rover. Enjoy

That car built by John Dodd was called the Beast after it caught fire it was rebuilt and I think it is now over in Spain still running, looks like a strange sort of Ford Capri with a looooong bonnet. A story goes that it was on a German autobahn and roared past a driver in a Porsche so much so that the Porsche driver rang Rolls Royce wanting the new model that just passed him as it had a RR grill on the front.

Looks like its almost impossible to match the thread on that pipe fitting ...:undecided: What a job, sorry to give you all late nights researching all those SAE's UNF's, UNC's, AN's and TPI's :cool2: :cool2: Ha, silly me thought it was an easy job. If it rains much more this year, like it did last year I am going to start collecting stamps.................:-D

congratulations to you and all beers all round and a here here cheers

Thanks everyone still feel as young as ever ........

All very interesting, thanks Yep, I realized the units are different but thought there must be some kind of similarity between them and here you two go and deliver the goods. All these calculations are all very interesting, just goes to show they knew what they were doing back then didn't they Thanks very much.

Right then imagine two chambers with actuating rods coming out of them one to push out on pressure and one to push out on vacuum, would 20" Hg vacuum give the same force on the rods as 20psi ?

Got another question, what thread size is the temp gauge sender hole in the top back of the cylinder head on a gmc 270 ? Answer:- npt also same thread and size to fit the temp sender hole on a Cummins 6BT..

Little confused here, so if I order 1/4" or 5/16" male unions they will fit over the 1/4" or 5/16" dia tube, how does that work !!!! Do they then send them in a Self Addressed Envelope isnt that what SAE means :blush: Yep thanks for the info on the tube I have the flaring tools to do the ends and the copper / nickle tube, as I have done the lines in the chassis about 10 yrs ago and still as good as new, but did not know the sizes of the male union ends.

Ok guys, I know the two sizes of brake pipe in the chassis on the CCKW's is 1/4" and 5/16" but what about the sizes of unions on the ends of the pipe ?

The 352 tanks are about 7 feet long they have two baffle plates in side them where the tank straps go round, they are almost solid side to side and top to bottom except for large diagonal cutouts on the corners where the tank is curved, there are two drain plugs one is the fuel outlet in the middle of the tank and the other is at one end in the base there is also the fuel level gauge sender which would also provide a hole for access good luck.

That would be great and if you can take some pics of the air connections to the wiper motors and also the route up the windscreen to them.

Great pics thanks for the effort good pics of what I needed. One other thing how do the wiper motors work are they powered by air pressure and not vacuum ? a couple of pics would be great. Thanks

Not quite good enough, need square on pics showing detail of all the gauges on the dash, hope you have some lurking around. Thanks for the links.

Has any one out there got some good pics of the dash with gauges in on an open cab Ward for reference.

No problems glad to help. Got the uj circlips sorted out now so that's another thing done.

No don't want to go down this route I do not want brakes coming on with no air. But do want added safety in respect to dual circuits and brake gun as you say. How do you know this stuff have you got a camera hid somewhere watching my every move :cool2:

Yep guys, all notes being taken, quite agree with comments on springs I am very aware of the sorts of forces that can be contained in compressed springs so there is no need to worry on that case as I will not be venturing in to anything I don't fully understand. As I have never interfered with air brakes ever before I have posted here to find out more before I decide what to use. So here we go this thing here I would say is an air brake chamber, I presume these also contain springs but not VERY STRONG to aid in the return of the operating mechanism to a rest position ? This beasty here I would call a spring brake chamber as I presume in one of the black chambers there is a big nasty spring strong enough to hold the brakes on full ?