mike65

Part of the reason that these departments and other government departments visit this type and all sorts of other forums is research. Laws and rules are constantly being changed or having changes forced on us by Europe. By reading forums they can get a feel for what people think and what groups maybe worth targeting for the purpose of consultation. Many of these departments have to 'enforce' legislation that, they also have to interprit and in many cases is a series of cross references to multiple documents, with numerous loose leaf updates. When they do a full update it is normally to just one of the documents. In many cases there is no definitive answer written down in black and white. But then with so many variations in vehicle types, uses and modifications available it is not possible to put it all down in simple black and white. However I do think that an Idiot's Guide or decent Guidance notes would help all parties. It is not just vehicles that have these problems, come accross it all the time when trying to do details and design for highway works. You have the Design Manual for Roads and Bridges and its companion the Specification for Highway Works on top of which each Local Authority Highway Department has their own variation/interpritation. Sort of off topic but probably demonstrates a point (I hope) Mike

From a quick search on 453 Sqdrn RAAF they were flying Mark IXb at that time. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No._453_Squadron_RAAF Mike

4 blade propellor so that would make it a Mk VI or later. Mike

Depends what you think a dual carriageway is. If I remember correctly A dual carriageway is a road where the opposing traffic flows are seperated by a barrier or strip of land. Therefore a dual carriageway could have a single lane in each direction and a road with 2 lanes in each direction may not be a dual carriageway. Also Mr Plod may not have been right. Mike

Not quite sure where it is but there are a lot of them up there including a Swordfish. http://www.peakdistrictaircrashes.co.uk/pages/peakindex.htm Mike

Editing photos used to be alot harder in the good old days of emulsions, chemicals and dark rooms. These days far more simple, pixels are far more ready to be manipulated. Here is a quick 60 second example. In fact it took much longer to type this post. We could even caption it "Flypast by formation of Avro Lancasters at Duxford 5 September 2010" Who knows give it a few years and people may believe it actually happened. Mike PS: This goes against my photography ethics.I like to take pictures of exactly what was there and other than cropping, resizing and removal of dust I like to get it right when I take the picture.

Yes you can have them in any colour you like as long as it is green. Mike

At a guess they are the same as anormal Serries 3. Which should make them 10" Having bought some reacently I should be able to find the reciept but it appears to be filed in a safe place. My parts catalogue gives 4 numbers but I think PRC1330 is the most likly one, but would double check when you buy. Prices vary and so does quality. Depends how often you drive in the rain. Mike

Qas given this link by a chap in a parts department and put it comewhere for safe keeping. So safe I have just found it 4 months later. http://www.thepart.com/ Not sure it is nay good for most of your exotic MVs but it does work for Series Land Rovers. Qill not search everywhere only those companies who participate but it has just helped me find some bonnet catch staples 2 with postage for less than 1 was from Blanchards. You do need to know the part number though. Mike

Had this when getting a quote for a 109 sight unseen. They said how many seats, me thinking 8 in the back and 3 in the front great for family outings. The response was we can't cover that you might be using it as a minicab/van. They obviously do not understand that you have to pay people to ride on th bench seats of Series Land Rover. Turned out to be an FFR so it has 2 in the front and will only have 4 in the back, cause I got to buy some seats. They would cover me if I provided a letter saying that it would not be used for hire and that I would not carry more than 7 people. You could try this route. Mike.

What and end up like this:shocked: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://autozoo.ru/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/tractor_crash_2.JPG&imgrefurl=http://picsdigger.com/keyword/tractor%2520crash/&h=400&w=597&sz=28&tbnid=_mzporIx-ydf2M:&tbnh=90&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtractor%2Bcrash%2Bpictures&zoom=1&q=tractor+crash+pictures&hl=en&usg=__GnreLD9ydCgwd3amKN7RsJnel0A=&sa=X&ei=BKvRTLSVEpaSjAeR89SIDA&ved=0CB8Q9QEwAA Mike

Probably right but it is worth comparing ready mix to DIY concrete for a small area, especially if you need to hire a mixer. Mind you 1.4 cu.m is not a full load. Whichever way you go make sure you do the slab in one continuous hit without long breaks between adding concrete you are mixing. Bearing in mind the shorter, colder and wetter days, if you cannot do it in one hit postpone or divide the slab into sections with a simple butt joint. A piece of timber as a vertical shutter will do this. If you don't it will crack and spall at the meeting point. Do you think we should bore and baffle them with slump tests? Mike

Reinforcing fibres have there uses. Metal ones make good tooth picks, but not so good on the teeth. You need to ensure they are spread evenly throughout the slab and that the concrete is well compacted. They are mainly used in large pour building slabs with a power float finish. Allows thinner slabs and larger bays between joints. Don't ask me how to design one as it is a black art, with only a few people who actually know the full details. Also need to bear in mind that the companies whom provide these slabs seem to go down the pan every few years. A new one starts up with basically the same people and of course the warranty on the slab is completely useless if it goes wrong. Not often but it occassionally happens. If metal fibres are near surface they rust and discolour concrete. They look awful when they are at surface level and if they are sticking up on your driveway the first you know about it is when you sit on it. Of course glass fibre reinforced concrete has been about for a while but is mainly used for precast bits like drainage channels etc. Mike

Military bumper with overriders and convoy flag brackets. Bonnet also has straps to hold spare on, most civvy had more sophisticated system. Whats the bracket/plate behind the door? Mike

They are getting rarer because they were/are common so when things failed people go "Well its only a S3 loads of them about let's junk it". Next thing you know they are rare. Just think how many Cortina's you used to see in their day and how many you now see. Mike

Specialise, an iteresting concept. Work for a company that does a bit of everything, mainly in the private sector. Housing, commercial, industrial, we will try anything (especially at the moment) Hover would say I spend the majority working on industrial/commercial drainage and hardstandings. Mike

I don't doubt you one bit. But those two lines do look remarkably like torpedo trails. Mike

Totally agree we need info. Mind you if its like the Lake District there are times when you can read the name tag without any aids. I keep meaning to have a go when in the Lakes but I either have not got the camera ready or it seems to be a no fly day. Just had a few weeks in the Lakes and got to see a few Hawks, Harriers (whilst we still hav them) Tornados even some army Lynx. Loads of Tucanos in the Lakes they are quite impressive when they fly through the Kirkstone Pass at minimum height. Mike

That makes a lot of sense. Don't let anybody have the technical description and manuals aswell, I suppose. We need to keep these things secret. Some unfriendly people may use them to make their own. After all make one from the spec sheets is much simpler than buying a used one. Mike

You would have to be quick and it would only be short term whilst they have some toys. Mike

One of many aircrashes in that area. Is there not a memorial plaque/stone at that location? Mike

As a humble civil engineer it is nice to come across a humble architect who does not talk a load of rubbish when it comes to concrete slabs and actually knows what a CBR is. Yes you ideally would have about 150 to 200mm of hardcore beneath a concrete hardstanding. However using Road Note 29 and a good CBR you do not need anything. Bearing in mind all guidance is based upon HGV traffic as cars and light vehicles are deemed to have no effect . If the ground compacts under the whacker plate you should have a bearing pressure suitable for a concrete slab to park a car on. I am assuming the existing granular parking has not rutted or anything similar. A concrete slab acts as a raft and spreads the load (mesh reinf helps this). Settlement on an internal slab can be a problems. Settlement of an external parking spot is normally not an issue as in most cases. A quick calc for 1% CBR at slab underside and 0.1 msa over its life gives a C35 concrete slab thickness of 125mm with no mesh and 150mm is the minimum thickness of concrete for an external slab Totally agree about PPG25 as well. Being as this is just a small area PPG25 does not really come into play. Pollution from oil etc should also not be a problem. The Environment Agency cover this under PPG3 Pollution Prevention Guidelines. So no oil seperator is required as this falls well below the threshold. Providing a granular margin or centre strip (extra working space) will provide a drainage and comply with the Planning requirement. The gravel strip will also act as pollution control as any oil will sit in this and degrade by natural bacterial means. This is the same way that porous block paving deals with oil. Normal block paving is classed as impermeable and you need special blocks with hole or large stone filled joints and a special graded stone sub-base. These types of drive do not work out cheap. Think the Planning criteria is a bit vague and you can get away with building a porous gravel drive on a 1:10 slope without needing permission. I am sure you can all guess where the gravel ends up after the first heavy rain storm. Now back to doing this for money. Mike

I know I will be wrong but it looks like a merit batch for sub-mariners. The one for hitting a ship on the bow with both torpedos. Mike

It has a vacuum servo assisted brake system. Visible on the right of you engine shot. Mike

I get home from work and go on HMVF to forget about my day job. What happens somebody asks a question about a concrete driveway. Oh well never mind atleast this is a question I know I can answer.:yay: So here we go with no liability but it will work. First things first. You do not need edge thickenings. You can get away quite happily with a 150mm (6") slab. You heed to excavate to approx. 20mm deeper than the proposed slab. This gices you a formation. For the proposed loading (Land Rover) you will not need a sub-base. Compact the sub-base using a whacker plate (from plant hire). For those who do not know it is a steel plate with a petrol engine that viprates and compacts the ground slightly. This needs to be levelled with a sand blinding layer. Shutter the edge of the arear with timber to provide a straight edge. If you want to be flash you can install kerbs. This also helps you get a level finish. On this you lay a sheet of 1000g (minimum) polythene and up the sides. Stops bonding and moisture being sucked out of the concrete. If you want to give it extra strength throw in some mesh. You maybe able to scrounge some from a building site They tgrow buts bigger than this away. Get some concrete and pour it in making sure you have no voids, especially if reinforced with mesh. You can rent a vibrator or just give it a good poking with a stick. Helps to spread and level it aswell. Tamp finish with timber, straight piece long enougth to reach both edge boards. Ideally a steel trowelled margin to preimeter should be provided, but can be omitted. Do not traffic for 14 days and protect from main and frost. Would recommend getting concrete from ready mix supplier You need a C35 mix. More detail on sketch. You need to concrete it in one hit to avoid problems. Attached is a quick sketch for you. Hopefully thats the day job over again.:-D Mike concrete drive,.pdf