fesm_ndt

definately a great job. so much so I am looking forward to your next restoration, whatever it may be perhaps a Wolf 90

Very good cause I like the sliding tray, do you make them up yourself or buy off the shelf?

looks very nice It also reminds me I have to get a new Defender sticker. It's interesting as the Defender sticker is typically on the radiator panel. But just noted on the MoD vehicles it is on the bonnet (I guess because the bonnet release is in the radiator panel). One of those bits one doesn't pay much attention to, but I just bought a new radiator panel.................

That could it then as he deals in Pinzgauers as well. He posts some interesting pics to show me from time to time but babelfish dont cope with the translation very well

Or is there still any surviving?

A mate of mine in Serbia just posted these. Makes me wonder how the hell it got there? Or if its for sale as a lot of times he finds stuff and sells it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]61966[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]61968[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]61967[/ATTACH]

Spellcheck was thinking you wanted the plural version

yeah that is a bit of history very nice

I was going to say ..... if its a Sherman tank........dont bother !! as they are so common running out the exit, before Adrian strangles me :-D

what they look like as.............. I bought a 1965 Ural M63 when the missus wasnt looking :help:

nice vehicles

just subscribed to this thread :cheesy: I think the advice above is sound, smacking a rod or picket in the ground and seeing if something stops it would be easiest just make sure there is no utilities around Mind you Rick will have dug up your rear garden before you can hit the rod PS.... dont forget the photos

My guess being steel the specialist company repairing it will do MT or MPI testing on it as much quicker as gives instant results. You are correct in that normally what you can see visually is only a small part of the picture. PT dye you put on, wait 15 to 30 mins for it to soak in, clean it, dry it and then apply a developer. Very useful to have a 3 can kit in the workshop. If your eyes are good you can soak the part in WD40, clean it and lightly dust it with powder as the oil will stain the dust and was how the principle was found in the first place The only problem with castings, especially old ones was that the material is not homogenous so you can pick up indications in the surface that are from manufacture. Another reason why MT testing is good as when you find something you tend to give it a quick grind to see if its got any depth instead of a scab. MT just needs a magnet and more ink, preferably fluorescent. Both these NDT techniques are fairly easy and cheap. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?16151-Ndt But all in all I hope its all a small thing and easily repaired so you can continue with your great thread.

I would say looking pretty :cool2:

Was looking at Ural bike parts and have found the place most amusing. I been using Babelfish to think up new searches 1. Cannon ball, a must for the discerning artillery buff http://999.md/Board/Message.aspx?MsgID=11861974 2. No idea, but obviously highly useful http://999.md/Board/Message.aspx?MsgID=11909999

Dental putty is good for measuring pits. The same stuff they use to make the moulds for mouth guards We used to use it on aircraft. Fluorescent MT or MPI testing would most likely give you the best dimensions on the cracks.

What are these toys? [ATTACH=CONFIG]60648[/ATTACH]

nah the turret would be upside down also :laugh: must be a monday tank. the fitters were hungover

They bought several scrapped carriers, I think 3 Kiev class, one they rebuilt and the HMAS Melbourne which they used for practicing carrier landings. One of the Kiev class was a new hull never fitted out and they finished it, or may be a later version, sister ship of the solitary Russian current flagship

and why is the number upside down? [ATTACH=CONFIG]60574[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60573[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60577[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60578[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60575[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60576[/ATTACH]

Some vehicles [ATTACH=CONFIG]60569[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60568[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60570[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60567[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60566[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60565[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60572[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60571[/ATTACH]

Geoje POW camp in South Korea Has realistic dioramas [ATTACH=CONFIG]60544[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60545[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60551[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60552[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60546[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60543[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60550[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60549[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60548[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60547[/ATTACH]

You could measure the wall thickness with utrasonic equipment. I know a few guys in the UK that maybe can help or if somewhere by Cambridge perhaps TWI. I wish I was in the UK on a trip as I'd gladly drop by

did you get the ring as just saw this but damn expensive http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330717687505&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

The guy is still adding up what he has. So far: 16 x 7.50 he has 260 pieces at 320RM each (roughly 66 quid/tyre) I should get the 16 x 9 prices next week