Scammell4199

Jeep in British markings, although this maybe substituted for or added to, if Jack permits, later with something a bit bigger, pending negotiations. Richard

Rick, Do you have any pictures of the engine rebuild? Were there any major problems with it? What bits needed replacing? Are parts easy for the old Meteors? Has it been bench tested? Any video? Phew, thats enough questions for now. Cheers, Richard

its not a left hand thread is it? Richard

Try Kebrell Nut and Bolt. They have several depots dotted over the country and have turned up some real old rare gems for me recently. Richard

Hi Vulture, 1. I'd check levels when its cold, because if its not quite upto level, you need to poke your finger in there to find out what level its at and you don't want to do that with hot oil! If you're going to replace the oil always drain the old out when hot so you can be sure of getting as much of it out as possible. 2. I have a large syringe for filling through oil plugs that are on a vertical plane. 3. Any open ended spanner that fits will do. If you're doing a GMC i would have thought you need A/F spanners for all the fixings etc, but for rough cast oil plugs just use anything that fits snuggly. Hope that helps, Richard

My latest haul of Welbike bits. A backplate with magneto bits, engine side cover and clutch lever. The hunt continues. Richard

awesome fun it was too, tad dusty! Richard

How can i get hold of this guy? Richard

Could also try Hanshel at http://www.hanshel.com I recently bought some from them. They have a standard range, not sure if that includes imperial, but they also manufacture to order. The bloke i spoke to on the phone was very helpful, and discussed what they had in stock over the phone. Hope it helps, Richard

Jeez that thing is quick, and sounds awesome. You should definatly bring it to Armour and Embarkation. Richard

I would have thought there is an energy loss consideration with any fuel/electric or fuel/hydraulic system over a conventional fuel/mechanical transmission. Every time you convert energies there are losses, possibly small by comparison. A conventional system converts the chemical energy in fuel into mechanical energy, where as an electric drive system converts the chemical energy into mechanical energy, then into electrical energy and then back into mechanical energy. In converting to electrical energy there are heat and light energy losses (as with the IC engine) but it seems an unnecessary step when you're ultimatly converting back to mechanical energy. Where electric drives are used there are other considerations, some of which have already been mentioned here, which make it worthwhile. Richard

Fantastic work Mark, all this technical stuff is brilliant. Just goes to show that something which is seemingly in good nick on the outside has some pretty serious problems inside, just like i found on our Scammell gearbox. Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing (and hearing) the finished product. Richard

Go on Adam dive in!! Regarding those Warner brake units, when we bought our Mat we found the brake pedal very stiff and traced it to the Warner unit, once uncoupled from the brake pedal the brakes worked brilliantly. Richard

I had new rubber gaskets made by Provincial Rubber in Bristol: http://www.provincialrubber.co.uk/ Gave them the originals and they cut new ones. Richard

Any chance the Cromwell could be fitted with tracks from a 432 or chieftain or something? Not strictly accurate i know but better to have it there like that than not at all. I remember seeing a T-55 at Kemble that had been fitted with hush puppy track from centurion. Eddy? Richard

Im heading over tomorrow with a friend and staying till Monday morning. Don't know any of you by sight but maybe meet up with some fellow HMVFers somehow. Richard

What is the ABWO?

Hi Vulture, I had some problems with the charging on our Jeep a couple of years ago, i found this website which explains very well how automotive electrical systems work. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/98.cfm You might also find the thread which i started helpful. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?13062-Urgent-help-needed-testing-Willys-MB-charging-system-please Batteries i find are very peculiar things, and when they do go wrong there is usually no logical explanation for it. All the best, Richard

I've made good progress re-drawing the diagram today. But, i've noticed something else, theres no brake light circuit or switch, despite the fact that the vehicle is equipped in terms of a point on the brake pedal arm to hook the switch onto and a bracket on the chassis to mount the switch on. So, i'll fit that in on my re-draw along with indicators, which i think is a worthwhile concession to originality for the sake of safety on modern roads. Richard

Thanks for the scans Clive, they make alot more sense. Yes Ed it should be 12v lighting, clearly not what it shows on the diagram though, like Phil said the bloke who drew it must have been smoking some of the strong stuff that day. I managed to remove a good chunk of the wiring from the vehicle intact when i dismantled it, so i'll make a drawing of that to compare too. I've also started re-drawing the diagram in AutoCad to how i think it should be, will post it when i'm done. Haven't made a start on the engine yet Phil, just finishing off gearbox and putting back axle back together at the moment. Richard

yeah i know that, and reminding me of it and looking at the diagram again the more i find that doesn't make sense, grrrrr Gonna look at the Matadors wiring diagram as a comparison

Andy, No, just on and off. Also i've just realised the circuit for the instrument panel lights and inspection lamp sockets is a bit peculiar. Richard

Can anyone help me with the wiring diagram for a Scammell Pioneer, i've attached a scan from the manual below. I have a reasonable understanding of electrics but i can't fathom out the headlight circuit. From what i can see there is a feed from the left most terminal on the control board to a group of connected terminals on the fusebox, from there a feed runs upto the instrument panel, from which the headlights are switched on, go through one of the fuses in the fuse box and onto the headlights. This is where it gets tricky, the return from the headlights runs back to the group of terminals on the fusebox where the feed from the control board comes in. Surely this isn't right? The sidelights and tail lights make perfect sense, because they go to ground and are picked up by a ground on the fusebox that runs back to the negative terminal on the battery. Comments anyone? Cheers, Richard

Lapdancers? Richard

hey Jerry, i'll come see you soon, check out progress on the Scammell. I'll give you a call in the next couple weeks. Richard