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Scammell4199

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Everything posted by Scammell4199

  1. Thanks again for your replies. It seems getting the proper puller is the way to go, we already have the spanner. Its probably a long shot, but has anyone got one they'd be willing to part with? Cheers, Richard
  2. If you can wait till the weekend i'll have a look at the floor boards we took out of our cab. Regards, Richard
  3. Thanks for the replays guys. What did you use for a puller Andy? My make shift puller has an M36 nut and bolt which I think is prob a bit coarse. I'm gonna get a long spanner plasma profiled this week out of 20mm plate, nice and long so we can get lots of leverage on it, and give that a go. It certainly wasn't designed for ease of maintenance! Richard
  4. Help please!!! Dad and I went to start taking off the brake drums today. We have the original hub nut spanner so getting the big nut off wasn't too much of a problem. Now we are trying to get the drum off, it is mounted on a tapered shaft with two keys. We made up a puller similar to that shown in the back of the manual by drilling a hole in a spare hub cap and welding a large nut on the inside, the mating large bolt provides the pulling force. However, with this device in place the drum/hub won't budge, and I'm at my wits end as to what to do now. The only solution I can come up with is to make up some sort of puller that I can get a powerful hydraulic ram into. Has anyone here tackled this job before? Any comment much appreciated. Richard
  5. So you mean you haven't got the drum off yet? In which case I don't think it would be seal because the seal is in behind the drum. Lucky you're at the same stage as me. Dad and I have just gone to start taking the drums off, we got the big nut off, and have made up a puller from a spare hub cap but the drum/hub won't budge. I don't know what to do now, and am somewhat pissed off. Richard
  6. PM me your email address and I'll send you the drivers manual. It's all in there. Richard
  7. I had hoped to go with the MVT to the Etreham site again, but the folks don't want to camp anymore, so we tried booking one of the chalets on site, but the site has changed hands since last time and we can't make the new owners understand what we want over the phone and they don't answer emails, so don't know what to do. Richard
  8. Ah balls, are they going to? Any luck finding out who is going to rebuild the engines Jack? Now THAT i would like to involved with Richard
  9. Whats happened to the S130 website? doesn't seem to be working.
  10. Whenever it is, I can't wait to hear and see it Richard
  11. Thanks guys. As John said being diesel I was more thinking about cleaning out the years of crud ready for service, but obviously the cutting, grinding, welding and blasting is going to generate all manor of debris that will need cleaning out. So after posting the thread and thinking about it a bit I was thinking more along the lines of what ruggyjohn said and then giving it another good steam cleaning out after the blasting and painting. Richard
  12. Has anyone got any advice on cleaning out fuel tanks? The classic car restorer who had the fuel tank from our jeep dipped said the chemicals used are now illegal so he can't get it done. I'm going to do the tank for the Scammell soon. I need to cut the bottom out and weld in a replacement because it has rusted through or cracked, and i also want to get it blasted, but also want to clean out the insides throughly. So, anyone any ideas? Thanks in advance, Richard
  13. American navy and NASA use corn flour for stripping aircraft, I raided the kitchen and ran some through an ordinary hand held blast gun and it tried it on some heavily varnished and carbon covered pistons and it worked really well. Problem is in getting it to flow through the blaster, but a machine built for soda would sort that. True you can remove paint from a vehicle without affecting chrome or glass, I looked at starting up as a soda blaster and visited several equipment suppliers and tried different machines out on different substrates. Richard
  14. Blasting with corn flour is quite effective like soda blasting. Very gentle with none of the nasty side effects on aluminium. Or you could use plastic bead. Hope that helps, Richard
  15. Please excuse my ignorance as to how military units are organised but would a 7th Armoured Division Jeep be welcome? Failing that i might have to quit work and get the Scammell done. Richard
  16. So, going on that, does that mean if i had a low loader primarily for moving my own toys around and i don't drive commercially, and a friend said can you move my vehicle from A to B for a few quid would that be ok? because its not your main job. Richard
  17. Yes I believe so, sure Adrian will confirm tho. Richard
  18. We're thinking about going to Arnhem instead of Normandy in 2014. I've been there twice before. Once for work and once for the tractor pulling. Stayed at Hotel Blanc both times. Not too far to the excellent Marshall Museum at Overloon. Richard
  19. Me too!!! Whose workshop is that?!! When you say the ex range wreck, is that the one found in eastern europe somewhere couple years ago? I had assumed that Wheatcroft would have bought that one. Who is Iain King? Richard
  20. Finally dropped the engine off with white metal bearing man today, very pleased.
  21. Finally dropped engine off with white metal bearing man today, very pleased.
  22. Does anyone know of any good books on these vehicles.
  23. I'm surprised any blaster still uses builders sand, because you can get silicosis from using it as a blasting medium. Keep well clear while he's doing it if I were you. Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know. Truck looks great though, those Chevs are lovely. All the best, Richard
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