Scammell4199

Thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than start a new one. I've been using paint I got from Bailey Paints in Gloucestershire, but seems to be coming out more matt than it used to. What experiences have people had of different companies? War paint etc? One of the main problems seems to be repeatability of the colour from different batches. I need a paint that is both brushable and sprayable. I was thinking of using RAL 6022 olive drab. Richard

Does anyone know whats happening about Tanks in Town this year? I had assumed that after last years event didn't happen, that would be it, Tanks in Town no more. But, the website says: "Website temporarily closed. Information for the 2013 Edition will follow soon." Which leads me to believe that something might be happening this year??? Look forward to your replies, Richard

If there is someone nearby able and willing with a wrecker, I'd save yourself the effort of trying to get it going now and drag it out of there if you can. When I bought my Matador it had sat for ten years and something in the system is sticky, I'm presuming its the injector pump elements, the result of which is that when you press the accelerator it revs it guts out and takes what seems an eternity to come back down after letting off the pedal. What I'm trying to say is you don't want to damage the engine by trying to start it without a very thorough going over. Best of luck, Richard

Magic. You must be so chuffed. Richard

Great to have you on board, and another Pioneer too Richard

I believe the rear body floor boards are 1.1/8" thick, and I wouldn't assume the sides are the same, I don't think that is the case. All the best, Richard

A question for those of you who have had Pioneer or Explorer rear hubs off: What did you do about the seal? The original is some ghastly spring loaded lash up, and I'm thinking about retro fitting a modern lip seal. The seal housing is O/D 6.3/4, I/D 5.1/4 and 1/2" deep. I've found that there is an off the shelf lip seal with a 6.1/4 O/D, so I'm thinking about using that and machining an adaptor ring to take up the difference. I'm also thinking about putting the hub in the mill and taking a skim off the sealing diameter because that's in a bit of a mess. What you think? Richard

No Roger, I was going to PM you with my happy news, but you've found it. Many thanks for your ideas and offer of help. Richard

I'm not really into the whole uniform thing so don't really want to be infantry, I'm interested to know what vehicle you might want me to drive though. Richard

A milestone achieved today. Finally got the first of the rear hubs off. Thanks to the lend of a purpose made puller, me swinging on a spanner some 6+ feet long and a bit of sledge hammering off it came. Gate is open to get them all off now. Richard

I would kill to bring the Scammell on this event (metaphorically), but unless I win the lottery I haven't got a chance in hell of having it done by then. Sorry. Might come as a spectator. Richard

We use George McKay quite alot, always turns up what we need. Have also used Kebrell in Bristol, although they have a few depots round the country. They turned up some very rare bolts known as "countersunk squares" that are used to hold the timberwork on the back of the Scammell. I'd looked everywhere for them and had almost given up when I went to Kebrell and they had 50,000 the right size in stock!!! Richard

A table with lots of little pots with bits and pieces in - that looks familiar I like your workshop, is that one of those paint fume extraction machines i see? Are they very effective? Richard

Looks fantastic so far. Have you got much to do to the engine? Looking forward to seeing progress. Richard

Saw a Leyland Hippo on a low loader heading north on the M5 between Weston Super Mare and Taunton this afternoon.

So the 6BTA you're putting in, is that the same model of engine that would have been in the Shielder, or just one you've found will fit? Liking your progress, good luck with it. Richard

Nice work. We're all CVR(T)s petrol powered originally? Richard

I know its cable operated, i had planned on doing proper engineering drawings when i get that far. If you find anything out post it here please. Good luck, Richard

of course square flapjacks don't have corners do they...........

Thanks for your reply. Yes lip seals, I've put loads in before using the method you describe, but the ones that have rubber even on the outer diameter generate so much friction with the housing, you can almost distort it trying to drive it home.

It might sound stupid, but is there a method to installing rubber coated oil seals? I bought some for the Scammells winch drive and they were an absolute ba*$£rd to fit because the friction with the housing is so great. I've just bought another for the Scammells crankshaft and was hoping someone might have some nifty tips on getting these little blighters into position, to save my own frustration. Thanks in advance, Richard

Yeah i always make sure to keep things like this in their original positions, i hadn't thought i would need to keep the keys in their original position. So, yep the centre punch will come out and make sure of that. Thanks for the advice, Richard

Very jealous. Why are there four tillers? Good luck, Richard

Hi John, yeah I made one from a spare hub cap, the problem is I think I used too coarse a thread to apply the force. I've managed to borrow a fellow HMVFers made up puller to be going on with till I find a nice big nut and bolt with a finer thread. Many thanks for your reply. Richard

Hi utt61, Yeah hydraulics were going to be the last resort. I've used a similar setup to that you described for pulling/pushing big pins out of hinged joints on dockside and offshore cranes before. Since my last post I've actually had an offer of a lend of a puller, and I've posted ads to hopefully acquire my own. Thanks, Richard