sirhc

There is no pacific headset or helmet, or a specific one for that matter! The earlier 'Bone Dome' helmets had the headsets built in and are identifiable by the large bulges at either side over the ears. These aren’t great and I don’t like them. The later ‘Turnip’ helmets have a cut out either side for the headset, which clips in using a lift the dot type fastener on either side of the headset. These are much better, but the fasteners can come detached from the tabs which leaves the helmet bouncing around. These two are mostly used by AFV crews, but there is another type of headset which fits into/under the standard Mk 6 Kevlar helmet. These headsets have a Velcro strap which goes over the top of the helmet to hold it in place. I’ve mostly seen these in use on Warriors, where the crew are wearing the Mk 6 helmets anyway. What parts are you looking for? You’ll be lucky to find any decent vehicle parts at W&P, I haven’t bought anything useful spares wise down there for some time. You will probably find some headsets and maybe the odd helmet, but don’t hold your breath! Keep an eye on ebay as they do turn up on there. Chris

They are UNC. I'll look up the sizes in the parts book later.

Cork seal in the change over tap?

Engines are not a problem! I wish I'd have gone now, but I probably would have ended up with loads of stuff!

Have any results been published? What did the Sabre restoration projects go for?

Andrew Baker was on one of these videos, I think it might be his.

They're all second hand! Cheapest I've seen recently is £600.

1998.... I think they were £40,000+ when new, so this would have been around 10 years old when scrapped off. Mine was built in 1997 and sold off in 2003, it was written off in Iraq. Chris

Ah yes, the standard broken hinges... mine had these too, it's fairly common. I ended up buying a complete engine deck which was dry stored and so perfect, but the guy who had my broken ones welded them up ok so it is possible. Chris

It's not hard to see where the money goes when you see what it looked like 'before'.... (I am sure this is the same vehicle, someone will tell me if not!) Chris

A Wolf has the same basic shape as a standard Land Rover, but there are very few parts which are the same. It's is built on a completely different chassis, with a 300tdi engine, R380 gearbox. The axles are different, as are the springs and shock absorbers. The rear tub is very different and it has a special roll cage fitted, even the front wings are different. Electrics are all 24v, so different starter, alternator, wiring looms etc to a standard Land Rover. They are expensive because there are relativley few in private hands, and they rarely come up for sale. The price seems to keep climbing as more people want them but no more are released. Those which you do see for sale are all accident damaged rebuilds. Having tried to rebuild mine to a good standard, the time and effort required, not to mention cost of the new parts soon adds up.... and that's providing you can find a rebuildable wreck which is cheap enough. The last few wrecked 90s through Withams were close to £10,000 and that's before you start with the new parts. Chris

Operations Grapple and Resolute were Bosnia. http://www.britains-smallwars.com/Bosnia/bosnia-units.html

It is.

Not yet Chris, will try again on Sunday! Chris

Antar on this forum has a nice one, with all the bits, for sale at a good price. See this thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?16493-Combat-Engineer-Tractor-FV180

Hi Nick, Welcome to the forum, from another midlands member. From that photo, it looks like an OY and not an MW. Chris

Join the club! I bought 3 last time. They all turn over ok, but have low compression. Should be easy to fix. Chris.

Ouch! Looks like it's had a bit of a bump!

Brad, It's no surprise that the 2 rusty adjusters, at the bottom of the photo, are the ones you're having a problem with. Get someone to pump the pedal in gear while you watch the adjusters. It may be that they're siezed and might work if freed off. I think you need to drain the oil out of that box and check for water as a start though! Chris

Andy, The MoD are in talks with BAE systems to start making new hulls. Infact about half of the Sabres went to ABRO and were stripped for use as spare hulls. These vehicles have been in service a long time now, so it's not surprising they are a bit past it. It's pretty common to blast components before inspecting them for cracks. Chris

Mike, This does sound like my problem. I will have to have another go at adjusting it. Still deciding if I want to buy another new master cylinder at the moment...! Chris

I think you'll find I did mention the hoses... see my original post!

The master cylinder I have fitted is 569671. I have 243296 /7 front wheel cylinders, which are 1 1/4" so I think all is well there. The brake test button has never done anything since I have had the vehicle, although I am sure the shuttle valve works as the light has come on in the past when there has been a leaky cylinder. Bleeding with the easy bleed, or conventionally with someone else pumping the pedal both produce the same results... no traces of any air anywhere. I think I'll look up the price for a genuine master cylinder, and maybe an overhaul kit for the shuttle valve and servo while I am at it. I've never had so much grief with brakes before, even on the Fox when they caught fire due to a dodgy servo! Chris

Ok, from the top... - The tuck is 20HF93. - I did have a genuine master cylinder, I fitted a genuine kit and it made no difference. I have stuck a new Britpart one on and get the same problem. - All cylinders are correct for the vehicle. - I have not changed any pipework at the master cylinder, but the hoses and pipes to the wheel cylinders are new. - I am not losing any fluid. - The adjusters are correct. - I am bleeding in the correct order. - When I pump the pedal it keeps the pressure. With the old master cylinder it did slowly go down further. - As for rod length, I've not messed with it and so I assume it's correct. My current thoughts are.. either the shuttle valve is playing up, or the new Britpart parts are junk and do not work out of the box. I can't see any adjustment at the pedal end, but maybe a bit more travel would help. When I bought the vehicle the brakes were perfect. Whilst going to Withams one day I had a leak on the back cylinder, warning light came on. I fitted new rear cylinders, bled and then it was fine. My current problems started after damaging one pipe while fitting the parabolic springs a few years ago. I replaced the pipe with a new one, bled the brakes and they were ok, passed the MOT but never felt quite right. Since then they have got slowly worse. With Beltring approaching I started replacing bits to try and get it sorted, but now it's doing my head in! Thanks for the replies so far, any other thoughts? Chris

I have a problem with the brakes on my Lightweight. Nothing I do seems to help. When you press the pedal nothing happens, the pedal goes straight to the floor. On the second press the brakes apply the vehicle stops. So far I have: - Checked adjustment - Fitted new wheel cylinders - Fitted new brake shoes - Fitted new hoses - Fitted a new master cylinder - Stripped and checked the shuttle valve I am bleeding it with the easy bleed and there is no air in the system. I can not find any leaks. What should I try next?! Chris