sirhc

Yesterday I did 350 miles in my Wolf with no problems. In the afternoon we filled it up, packed it up and went for some dinner. Later on (about 9:30) I went to put something in it and noticed a drip from the sender unit on the side of the tank. The stupid plastic connector which goes in a plastic sender unit was dripping. It turns out the plastic connector is broken and the sender unit side is cracked. As the sender unit is half way up the tank, and didn't drip when the engine was running we decided to leave for the show and use up the fuel rather than have it drip. We packed up, started off and made it about 200 yards before it conked out. The vehicle runs for a few seconds and then stops, so I guess its pulling in air somewhere. This was about midnight and there was no way of turning round with the trailer on. I ended up driving all the way round the town, stopping and starting and driving for 20 or 30 seconds at a time. Doing about a mile took half an hour. All attempts to fix it have failed, I've been out since about 6 trying to do something to stop it leaking. Looks like I'm going to have to drain the tank and get something else to drive down in. Why do these vehicles do this to us!?!?! Chris P.S. Anyone changed the sender unit on a 110 before? It looks like it's pushed in and then the rim bent over... another stupid design!

I would like to recommend a low loader driver who we used today. His name is Terry Doherty and he is based in Warrington, but he travels all over the country. He is experienced in moving armour, and has moved vehicles for Tanks A Lot many times in the past. I was looking for someone to move 2 Sabres from Lancashire, I sent him an email and he was able to do a back load today at very reasonable cost. http://www.tdoherty.co.uk/home Chris

The green and sand one has the power distribution box and drivers panel missing. The green one has all the engine controls disconnected. I'd swap the boxes to the green and sand one, stick a jump lead on and see what happens.

Except that it's not PSP he's after, but the correct sand channels.

Ok, ignore what I said then :blush:

Hi Andy, Can't find anything with OM33 on it at the moment, what does the stuff in the tank look like? I would guess it's red, in which case automatic transmission fluid should do the job. This is what's in the power steering in the Wolf. Chris

Fictional registration number, it's been for sale for a while, and it's cheap.... I wonder what's up with it?

OMD90 is 10W 40 OEP220 is EP90 I need to check OM33. Chris.

I think you will know if it's missing or not - just try turning the turret!

Obviously a fan of the 'copy and paste description' but he's lifted that from somewhere other than Wikipedia, which was the most obvious choice.

Lee, When you get a chance, remove the air filter housing from the hull and inspect it at the bottom. Ours was rusted through and the filter looked a lot like yours! Chris

If you are looking to buy stuff you need to get there as early as possible. I know people who go on Wednesday for the stalls (takes a good day to go round them properly) and then Friday/Saturday to look at the vehicles.

Dan, Those lights are correct, the cutouts were designed for those lights. Later on the wading screen was cut away completely and extra plated were added when the light guards were fitted. Have a look at these Spartans, the smaller lights are the original ones. Later the 7" ones were fitted, then finally the light guards were fitted too. Chris

A couple in a UK scrap yard, now cut up.

If you look at the side of the vehicle near to the NBC pack, in the upper right hand corner, there should be a tag welded on. It will say STRxx which is the hull number. Photo shows BESUL21, which is Belgian Sultan 21. Chris

Because they haven't updated the website yet?

Hi Monty, That will be a fake! Looks like it's been photoshopped? There is never enough room in the turret for a weapon that big. Chris

Jack, You can have a go in mine at Beltring if you like. Not quite a Sherman, but it has tracks and a gun! Chris

Here it is earlier in its life..

On the A46 heading towards Newark from Lincoln about 8am this morning, OT810 half track from the Boys auction.

I have had a lot of things blasted over the years, from Ferret wings and bins to CVRT and Bedford parts and more recently my M151A2 body. The result you get back depends on what you start with, and how good your blaster is. If there is rust or filler in the body, it will be removed and you will end up with holes. The person doing the blasting should adjust the pressure and technique to ensure that thin panels aren't warped. When I had CVRT bins (made from aluminium) blasted they came back with a rough surface fnish. I rubbed them down with some fine sand paper before painting, and they came out ok. I don't know anyone in your area though. Chris

I'd say there's probably as many Champs over there as M151s over here, they are just more spread out over there.

Good call Andy... that one is out of stock, but they have these... http://www.armyradio.com/arsc/customer/product.php?productid=1362&cat=80&page=1 Which clip in to the Crew Guard helmets.

Ok, here are some photos of the stuff I had lying around. Sorry if the quality is not good, it was getting dark. First up this is the 'bone dome'... Next is the 'turnip' helmet, more correctly called the Crew Guard. This is type of headset which fits inside it, and the mounting mechanism. This is the latest ANR type of this headset, the earlier type has vents which slide open so you can hear whats going on around you. In order to use these you need a Pressel box or for the Commanders Box Fixed a Commanders Personal Unit and 10 pin lead (not shown.) Just for fun, here are some in service photos showing some other variants of helmets and headsets, including the Mk 6 Kevlar in a Warrior. I hope this helps. Chris

You need 1/2" UNC by 1 1/2" long. There should be 16 of them.