sirhc

Its the AFVsociety shed.

Yes, but I'll need another set eventually.

I've also been busy rebuilding the hubs and brakes. I have done both the rear ones, with new wheel bearings, seals, brake cylinder and brake shoes. I am waiting for some more bits for the front ones, which may take a few weeks to turn up thanks to the voncano ash! I really wanted to get this done for Beltring, but it's just not going to happen this year. I still have the Bedford engine to change and the Wolf to MOT. On top of that the handbrake in the Sabre has broken and needs fixing before I can put it on a low loader. As for affording this, yes it's costing me a fortune. Both Mutts have needed so many new parts, the parts themselves aren't expensive in the USA, but by the time I pay postage and then Gordon has his bit they start getting pricey. I'm not going to rush this one, hopefully it'll be like new when it's done. Chris

The body is in really good shape, apart from the floors. I had already bought a pair of front floors, so I've cut the old ones out and welded in the new ones.

Time for another update. I completely stripped down the body and sent it away for blasting. As soon as it came back I sprayed a coat of zinc primer to stop it rusting while I source some replacement panels.

Jim, Give Paul Bosworth a call: http://www.bosworthbros.co.uk/blastcleaning.htm He knows me, tell him Chris McMillan gave you the info. Chris

Really?! :nut:

Not online, but in this book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chieftain-Rob-Griffin/dp/1861264380

I am half way between Nottingham and Derby and know a good blasting company. They have old vehicles too so are happy to help out on restorations. Where are you Jim?

Mark, What is the fluid coupling, if it isn't a flywheel? :-) Don't take the filler plug out unless you have the correct tool. If you drop it inside the housing it's an engine out job. Also replace the copper washer before you put it back in. I think if it's not leaking, it won't need topping up, so leave it alone. Chris

I find the easiest way to service a Ferret is with all 4 wheels off the ground. I jack it up, stick it on axle stands then take the wheels off. This allows access to grease all the pivots and check/top up the oil. While the wheels are off stick a tape measure round them and write the circumference on a bit of masking tape. When re-fitting them match the tyres as close as you can on either side. Don't forget to measure and use the spare too. Chris

Mark, For the suspension and hubs use EP90. (I now have some drums of OEP220 so use that, but I used to use EP90.) I doubt there's much difference between liquimatic no. 1 and no. 2, but we have been using no. 1. I will say though that if you are having no problems with the flywheel, don't touch it! I use whatever antifreeze I can get from a local truck spares place, I buy it in 25litre drums as we get through a lot of it. Just dilute as per the info on the side. I've not got 10FD93 on my list, can you post a photo? Chris

I had loads of seat belt fittings kits, I might have some of these brackets left. I will check over the weekend.

Yes, TUAAM - Tuner Unit Automatic Antenna Matching.

The same applies to Ferrets Clive. Have a look at some and see how many have the grease nipples painted over. These will probably be the same ones which are making creaking noises as they drive past.

If you buy the service schedule and user handbook and read them before doing anything it can prevent costly mistakes! Searching for an oil or lubricant on Google usually finds a suitable equivalent.

Yes, and that trip is repeated today would cost the same in £££s as it is in miles! It was the plains trip in 2007 and I think I did 500 miles over the weekend and used about £300 worth of fuel!

In addition to the standard ANR headsets you will find some for sale without a microphone. These are for another, similar, ANR system which is fitted in the back of APCs. This system is connected to the main intercom, and depending on which position you have the switch in the guys in the back can either hear the intercom or just use the headsets for ANR. These headsets have a tethering cable and clip as well as a standard comms cable and the boxes have a hole for them to clip in to. We have this system in the Spartan and it's quite good when taking passengers, its certainly quieter than the track noise. Chris

They've not had the burger van for quite some time, but they do sell some snacks and hot drinks in the shed. As for buying in the tender, make sure you go and view and then bid what it's worth to you. Pretty much all the vehicles will need some work and don't be surprised to see bits missing or removed and stored in the back etc. Take some photos of anything you want to bid on. Also make sure you have a way of getting it home when you win, as you have to pay and remove the item within so many days.

You need to use the yellow front boxes, they are compatable with ARN headsets and the black ones aren't. You also need to use green pressels and not the black ones.

Is it boiling over, or is it just spirting some out of the pressure relief valve when running? Ours kept doing this, we were over filling it as they shouldn't be filled to the top of the filler neck.

Mine usually hovers around 180-190. On a long trip, such as the 200 miles to Beltring, I opened the engine deck covers, shut the latches and then closed them again leaving a larger gap so more air can get in. Don't drive over any big bumps like this though as the decks will bounce open! Chris

It has a fluid flywheel, and the transmission system was discussed at length here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?18002-Stop-laughing-you-lot!! Do not rev the engine with the brakes applied and a gear selected, you will boil the flywheel fluid and cause the seal to fail. Safest bet is to take it out of gear when stationary. Chris

I re-sprayed my Lightweight last year, I bought a 2.5 litre tin of satin Nato green from the local paint supplier. I still have half of it left. What have you been doing to use 4 litres spraying a Land Rover?!

It uses engine oil, so 10W/30 should do the trick.