Stealthbird97 Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) Hi, Took the Ford GPW out for a spin today. When we parked up we noticed that there was quite a puddle of oil on the ground near the back of the engine. On inspection there was quite a strong drip coming from the back of the engine where the bell housing joins it (it is a bit mangled back there so there is small gap, but this is the first time it has been leaking so much) Doesn't seem to leak as fast when the engine is running... Is this going to be the Main Rear seal of the engine or something else? Thanks in advance... Edited September 11, 2016 by Stealthbird97 spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganger04 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Hi, Took the Ford GPW out for a spin today. When we parked up we noticed that there was quite a puddle of oil on the ground near the back of the engine. On inspection there was quite a strong drip coming from the back of the engine where the bell housing joins it (it is a bit mangled back there so there is small gap, but this is the first time it has been leaking so much) Doesn't seem to leak as fast when the engine is running... Is this going to be the Main Rear seal of the engine or something else? [ATTACH=CONFIG]118580[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]118581[/ATTACH] Thanks in advance... First check if it's engine oil or gear box oil you can smell the difference, but suspect you may be right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Johns Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) First check if it's engine oil or gear box oil you can smell the difference, but suspect you may be right. black oil is engine oil, it is the crankshaft rear seal leaking, a common problem, assume the oil level is correct and is not overfilled, put up with the leak if its not too bad as there is no quick fix, its take engine out and presuming its a ww2 engine remove the crankshaft, the later Hotchkiss/CJ engines have a conventional one piece seal, easier to change Edited September 12, 2016 by Nick Johns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdriver Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Your gonna have to fix it sooner or later. Put up with it by adding oil as needed, and park on a drip pan when you can. Change it out during the winter, when no shows are goin on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealthbird97 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 So is this something better monitored and left until an engine overhaul? It looks like quite a lot of hassle. I'm not a motor mechanic and wouldn't really be confident in doing it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdriver Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 It needs to be fixed, but IF you keep a close eye on it, and keep it filled, you should be finish the season with it. To fix it, you'll have to pull the engine down. If you go that far, you might as well go ahead and totally rebuild it, and be done with it. You can do it. I over hauled my 1st car engine when I was 10. With my Dad setting there just watching me, and answering questions I asked him. If I can do it, anybody can...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Tank drivers right it will need doing sooner rather than later but as long as you keep a careful eye on the oil level in the sump you'r OK for a couple of hundred miles more. Then it's engine out and check everything for ware against the factory specs while it's out, the old adage of 'do it once do it right' will save you time money and heart ache in the medium to long term. The problem (other than loss of engine oil and also a drop in oil pressure in the rest of the system) is that eventually the oil swilling around in the bell housing will end up on the clutch lining and that will be the end of that. Again as tank driver says the engine is a basic design, there are one or two things that are critical during rebuild but these are more than covered on HMVF and G503 forums in depth. With a few AF sockets some combination ring/open end spanners a good quality puller a manual and a couple of links to sites on the web there's nothing you couldn't teach yourself to do. I have included the link to the first part of a series on engine rebuilding on the G503 web site http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=73879 The most important piece of advice I can offer is NEVER be afraid to ask the seemingly daft question, make use of the search functions on this site and G503, at the end of the day if you don't feel confident to have a go there are a number of specialist business out there who will take the job on for you. Good luck and keep asking questions and posting the photos it always helps when guys are trying provide an accurate answer Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 When you take the engine out, Pop the core plugs and flush out/remove all the sediment. My engine water ways around the rear cylinder was solid with scale, rust, a stone and a rusted beyond recognition tool! I was surprised how much was in there, I popped the top rear one first and the crap was there. So glad I decided to pop them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 (edited) This may be worth a read. http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=219390 And rebuild tutorial http://jeepdraw.com/John_Barton_Engine_Rebuild1.html Edited September 13, 2016 by Chris Hall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 (edited) As outlined above, well worth also reading the various threads on G503 about which rear seal to fit and which to avoid before progressing any further. Many swear by the French Payenne seals if you can find them it would be a pi55er to do all the work and then find that the new seal self - destructs within a relatively short time Edited September 13, 2016 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealthbird97 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 Thanks to everyone for the information. We're going to monitor the situation for the moment considering there we have no space in the garage to do the work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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