Simon Daymond Posted January 25, 2009 Posted January 25, 2009 too busy at the moment to actually sit down and record the restoration progress to date, but seeing as I am currently repairing the wheel arches I thought I'd post some of the pictures etc here. When I get a quiet moment, I'll write the restoration blog of the militant in the correct order, but for now; for those of you who read the thread on Mk 1 militants, you may recall that I was about to undertake a repair on the rear wheel arches of my militant. As with all good plans, the minute I started the job everything changed. I realised that to try and weld the wheel arches in situ would be too dangerous, as apart from the difficulty of getting the metal into place, the very process of welding posed a serious risk of fire, given that the militant has many coats of paint, and also that the back body is wood. So I decided that the best plan was too remove the wheelarches, one at a time and rebuild/bodge them off the vehicle. As I haven't done this task before, I thought that I'd start with the easier side, and tackled the n/s wheel arches which were the most intact, than with the experience gleaned from the n/s I'd be beter prepared to tackle the o/s wheel arches which are almost non-existent. I also thought that if I could get the n/s wheel arches repaired and if they were still the correct curve etc, I could use them as a sort of makeshift jig to get the correct curve for the o/s arches, albeit that they were the wrong side. Here is the 'good' n/s rear wheel arch removed, it came off with little effort, but look how bad it is, and the metal is tissue paper thin. in the picture below, my attempt at shaping the steel worked quite well, although the metal didn't bend too exactly the right curve it was enough to allow me to get the new pice in place without it distorting the fragile wheel arch I was attempting to weld it to. I welded it today, but didn't take my camera, so pictures will follow later, so far so good, but as with everything it's taking much longer than I'd thought. before I started I took a few pics to jog my memory. I noticed that on the back of both wheelarches, there were two rivets, also it looks like something was held to the back of the wheel arch with these rivets as it is just possible to see that something has been painted upto. Whatever it was is long gone, but can anyone shed any light? In the pic below, I have circled the rivets, the red arrow points to a line which looks to me as though something was fitted and been painted around, as said this is the same on both wheelarches Quote
AndyFowler Posted January 25, 2009 Posted January 25, 2009 Nice one Simon good to see someone else has been getting busy with the rust ! Keep us posted please ! Hope to see the old girl out on the show scene in the future ! Andy F:-D Quote
Simon Daymond Posted January 25, 2009 Author Posted January 25, 2009 thanks Andy, I'm going to the show in Southport in April, that's the date I'm working to. Quote
6 X 6 Posted January 25, 2009 Posted January 25, 2009 Looking good, Simon. Thank you for starting this thread. The two rivets may have held simple looped brackets though which the wiring cable to the rear lights would have passed. The brackets are at the same sort of spacing in this picture as are the rivets on your mudguard. The small painted around area maybe what I call a dead herring. Quote
Simon Daymond Posted January 25, 2009 Author Posted January 25, 2009 I bet that is exactly right 6x6, the wheelarches both show that something was once fitted and painted around, it is the thickness of an armoured wire, so I guess that's the answer. Mystery solved Quote
Simon Daymond Posted February 16, 2009 Author Posted February 16, 2009 Had a phone call yesterday, from another forum member 'No Signals' who was in the area and wanted to pop in for a look. Had a very pleasant 1/2 half, sorry didn't get around to offering him a cuppa, perhaps next time? But after his visit I was a little more inspired to get cracking, so spent yesterday on the wheel arches. Now three out of the four have new metal, I just have to do a little tidying (little bit of filler) and they'll do. Only managed to set myself on fire once, so overall a good day Pics later. Quote
6 X 6 Posted February 17, 2009 Posted February 17, 2009 But after his visit I was a little more inspired to get cracking, Maybe we could all club together to fund 'No Signals' as a sort of full-time, roving inspirationist, visiting HMV restoration projects up and down the land. He seems the right bloke for the job. Quote
gritineye Posted February 17, 2009 Posted February 17, 2009 I love other peoples restoration blogs Simon, it's almost like doing it myself, but at home in the warm! :-D keep it coming. Quote
Stormin Posted February 17, 2009 Posted February 17, 2009 I love other peoples restoration blogs Simon, it's almost like doing it myself, but at home in the warm! :-D keep it coming. But if you get out there doing something in the cold you appreciate being back in the warm later all the more. I've got to say that some of the work shown on here is a great inspiration to me when I get down with my projects. Quote
Stormin Posted February 17, 2009 Posted February 17, 2009 Simon, How are you forming the radiused edge to the wing? I would have expected that to have been rolled / folded before you bent the main shape around the wheel or through rollers. Quote
Simon Daymond Posted February 18, 2009 Author Posted February 18, 2009 Simon, How are you forming the radiused edge to the wing? I would have expected that to have been rolled / folded before you bent the main shape around the wheel or through rollers. I cheated, the oute edge is pretty much intact, so I am replacing the flat metal and welding to the outer radius. - it's a bit of a bodge, but looks ok, and the end result is sturdy. Quote
AndyFowler Posted February 18, 2009 Posted February 18, 2009 "Looks ok and is sturdy " keeps her on the road mate ! Keep up the good work ! :-D Quote
Stormin Posted February 18, 2009 Posted February 18, 2009 I cheated, the oute edge is pretty much intact, so I am replacing the flat metal and welding to the outer radius. - it's a bit of a bodge, but looks ok, and the end result is sturdy. Sounds fair enough. It'd be costly to get that radius rolled and a good job with the welder and grinder should make it indistinguishable from original. Quote
Simon Daymond Posted April 4, 2009 Author Posted April 4, 2009 latest... not much progress lately, but today I bolted the bumper back into place, which was something easier said than in practise done, at some stage the bumper has been bent ever so slightly, so as a result the N/S holes didn't quite match up. Problem was the bumper is too heavy too man-handle easily on your own, also it was already painted, so I didn't want to ruin that, anyway a bit of jiggling, and by using really long bolts initially to draw the bumper square, it got fastened in place, no paint damage and all bolts in place. Next I thought I would take advantage of the warm weather, an empty yard and the steam cleaner to remove some of the masses of flaky paint from the chassis, wheels etc. Several hours later, I was drowned but the chassis looks more respectable, most of the flaky paint has gone, in some places I got right back to the original primer, I was particularly happy with the pipework, which looked very dilapidated, but it turned out only to be flaky paint, which once removed revealed a much tidier looking vehicle. I made a start on the wheels, but with all the nuts etc, it was too much like hard work, the jet seemed to come straight back at me, so I gave that up as a bad job, although I persevered with the hubs, which were a mess, they look better without a build up of flaky, chipped paint. Early next week I'll spray the chassis, just to stop all that I exposed today from going rusty. (I'll remember my camera next time) Quote
Simon Daymond Posted April 26, 2009 Author Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) update on the wings, (finally) this was how they started this was the best one.. new metal being bent.. then welded into place.. after being fitted.. then with some shiny stuff on.. The whole job took ages, the end result is okay, they aren't perfect but are better than I started off with. At least I've retained the shape etc, perhaps in later years I'll get some made, as at least I have a decent template now. Found it very diificult working on my own, due to the sheer size of the wings, had to use a combination of clamps and jacks placed on the tyres to get things into place. The wheel arches were bad enought to start with, but at first they were quite light due to the lack of metal, but once I'd welded the new stuff into place they became quite a handfull to hump around. As the floor is rotten, I had to make temporary floor brackets to support the outriggers in places. Normally the outriggers for the wheelarches are simply coachbolted through the floor, but as this is rotten, I felt that the weight of the new arches would make everything collapse, so I cut some 1" flat bar, and welded two bolts to each, which I located through the floor to refasten the outriggers to. Seems to have worked okay (they haven't dropped off yet). The offside wheelarch is bent out of shape at the rear, it looks as though in a former life some squaddie has reversed into something, as there was body filler underneath some of the green paint. This will have to remain as is for now as to sort it means messing about with the wheel arch and attempting to straighten the assosciated outrigger. After fitting the wheelarches, I had a friend fold the centre wheel arch sections up, through his work. However, they aren't right as the fold isn't correct: it should be a rolled edge, but instead it is a near 90 degree bend. I've fitted them for now, as I had nothing else, and the trip to York was too near, but they are a job to re-do some time later. I had to repair the rear light boxes, namely the edge which fastened to the outrigger had rotted away in both cases. I took the lights out and welded a strip of metal in, little bit of filler to tidy up, and they were done. I took the opportunity to re-wire the light units at the same time. Edited April 26, 2009 by Simon Daymond Quote
Simon Daymond Posted April 26, 2009 Author Posted April 26, 2009 couple of before and after's... yet to refit the mud-flaps Quote
Simon Daymond Posted April 26, 2009 Author Posted April 26, 2009 whilst doing the wheel arches, I tried not to get distracted into other jobs, but I did end up steaming cleaning and scraping alot of the chassis, wheels etc... that'll do for now, going to have a beer, seeing as it's my B-day.. Quote
abn deuce Posted April 26, 2009 Posted April 26, 2009 You can feel proud of a very hard job done very well ! . While it all looks fine just the way you did it , I understand your wanting it to be more correct rolled edge as to folded but unless one was up close or someone told you how it was different I dont think many would know .With each part of the project thats completed you adding years and years to its life that no small thing . And HAPPY BIRTHDAY !! Quote
Swill1952xs Posted April 26, 2009 Posted April 26, 2009 Happy birthday Simon :yay::beer::banana::nut: You've certainly done a good job on a great looking truck. Well done. :thumbsup: If my Albion looks as good as that when it's done I'll be really pleased with it. Quote
chevpol Posted April 26, 2009 Posted April 26, 2009 wow, nice job, you deserve that beer!!!! Happy Birthday Mark Quote
ekawrecker Posted April 28, 2009 Posted April 28, 2009 Nice job Simon. The end result looks really good and a great improvement. It's nice to see the Militant taking shape. Jonathan Quote
julezee001 Posted April 28, 2009 Posted April 28, 2009 Belated Happy Birthday for the 26th Simon!! Wish I'd looked on the day as it was my birthday too, my second 21st! Not especially strange except for the fact that I too have a Mk1 Militant. Failed its M.O.T test yesterday, with low effort on n/s/r brake. Hopefully just adjustment, which I've tried to sort, and back for a re-test tomorrow morning. Jules Quote
Simon Daymond Posted April 28, 2009 Author Posted April 28, 2009 thanks for that guys, sorry to hear the militant failed, but can I ask why you are sending it for MOT, I thought due to age they were exempt? Quote
Swill1952xs Posted April 28, 2009 Posted April 28, 2009 Belated Happy Birthday for the 26th Simon!! Wish I'd looked on the day as it was my birthday too, my second 21st! Not especially strange except for the fact that I too have a Mk1 Militant. Failed its M.O.T test yesterday, with low effort on n/s/r brake. Hopefully just adjustment, which I've tried to sort, and back for a re-test tomorrow morning. Jules How come you have your truck MOT'd. Are you using it to carry a load. I wondered whether it would be better to have an MOT so that you can carry your own goods. (My Albion will be MOT exempt - pre 1960 and over 3.5 tonnes) As I understand it; you can't carry anything in it at all if it's MOT exempt. Is that right? How do you get on at the test station with loading for the brake test. Surely their simulator can't put enough load on it to get a proper result? Quote
julezee001 Posted April 28, 2009 Posted April 28, 2009 My brother bought her 18 years ago (fast bike or something different!), we picked her out from 10 others with Atlas/Hiabs, and 60+ cargos with or without winches. Everyone said that they were all built in the 50's, but it turns out 2 batches were built in 1964, and PRX 529B is one of the last batch! She has always stopped a treat from day one, and only had 16000 miles on the clock when collected. Now only coming round to 22220 miles she still stops great, but unfortunately not quite well enough! The weakness is the rear brake set up which has only one cylinder each side to operate both axle brake expanders. The second axle is pushed on with a tube while the third is pulled on with a rod. In the Army they would only ever have had a Tapley test, with the meter in the cab, which they would pass fine, and indeed mine passed last year. Unfortunately the tester this year knew how to use the roller brake tester, and despite being generous with second go's on the n/s/r it wouldn't come up to spec! With the handbrake one foot on the front panel, one on the window frame and both hands pulling on the lever were not enough!! (I hope there wasn't any cctv!). In the past a handy get around was to test her as a camper on a class 4 test, which as far as I understand it means that if the front brakes "lock out", then the rears only need to produce 500kg force each to pass, which wasn't a problem with readings getting up to 1460kg usually. Unfortunately there are no longer any class 4 testers either locally at Hastings or even at Purfleet one of the largest HGV test stations?? Hopefully I might get a sympathetic tester tomorrow who will allow a quick adjust of the brakes if they are still not right? The first test was £73, and the re-test of the brakes tomorrow is another £53 ouch! Luckily it's not too far through the lanes to the test centre so I've not wasted too much fuel! The box body on the back body weighs about 3 tons, which helps load the brakes, although in the past we loaded 6 tons of timber on the back to help. The GVW was dropped from about 22500kg to 21300kg which also helps slightly. Jules Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.