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Scammell Explorer (Big Jenny)


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looking gd rob u better be carefull tho or the north wales road safty partnership will be campaining for speed camara down your little lane

 

i dont know if its the strait though egg and sauce but your meadows seems to get up and go a little better than mine still . when u get 5 mins could u take some pics of your injector pump and point out how it should be so i can compare it with mine . the only thing i have found is a small crack in the vaccume pipe that goes to the injector will have to get the solder out and sort it .

 

nik

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I will try to get some helpfull pics up for you Nick.The cracked pipe shoulden't have an effect on power might just smoke a bit lower down the rev range. The vacume pulls the pump back to reduce fuel. Noy really sure if it goes better but i know it has been "tweeked" as you can tell from the smoke:cool2: Think i pulled off in 3rd but it will happily pull away in 4th. The first vidio was flat out in 5th. there is a huge jump in ratio from 5th to 6th flat out in 5th then chugging in 6th. Also need to sort the clutch brake out one day to help quicken the up change. Got such a long decay on the revs not sure how i would get on going uphill. for now i dont bother with the clutch only for starting and stopping. Think i am going to sort out the rear tyres and oil seals next.

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Just thought i would try to post a link to friends web site as he has a few ex military recovery trucks. also has lots of good pictures of said recovery trucks in action. Enjoy http://hesletonrecovery.co.uk/default.aspx And yes that is one of the fodens that the army havent broken and it has all the remote boxes too. really nice lorry.

 

 

That Foden looks like the ex-Frodsham Motors of Morcombelake (Dorset) one - same colours etc. I was told that it was a Foden prototype and never went into army service. If it is the same one, it is a cracking motor.

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Yep it is a prototype that the army used for testing. has all the remotes and even some stuff the army ones havent got aparently. Think it is the only prototype that survived, the others got rolled ect in the trials. Think he part exchanged 3 or 4 miltiants and many thousands of pounds for it. He has just sold his crusader about 12 months ago also a minter with the plastic still on the bunk cushons. there is a picture on here somewhere think david crouch might have it but not sure might have been sold.

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Right Nick have taken some pictures so hope this helps.

 

 

firts off make sure you have plenty of slack in the stop cable so the rack can move to the full extent of its travel To be checked with the cold start buttton pushed in.

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Then make sure the throttle flap is set up correctly the max speed screw should be set up as to allow max opening without the flap going too far and starting to close again. quite common if people have been playing trying to get more speed.

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In the following pictures you can see the Meadows injection advance device mounted behind the injector pump coupling. The book says this requires no attention and i have given it no attention i think it is just a bob weight affair. Just above that is the max power adjustment with the shiny split pin sticking out of it.

Have you checked the injection timing? White grey smoke and no go suggests retarded timing, A light black haze on acceleration is ok and lots of black smoke and harsh knocking is over advanced or over fueling.

There is a plate on my engine that says brought up to a later spec (i forget which) but the valve timing on my engine has much larger overlaps and different timing to what the book says.( it is the same as the petrol engine) And is said to make the engine more flexible through the rev range. It is no greyhound but seems to pull the truck along with no worries. hope this helps.

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thanks for the pics rob thats given me a few things to look at i will check the butterfly valve opening also i will have a play with the fueling it did cross my mind that the fueling screw had been messed with by previous owners .

 

how dose one check injection timeing i think its ok but would be nice to know how to check just too be sure .

 

nick

Edited by younggun
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I will have to consult the manual about the timing but there is a window on top of the bellhousing and a pointer on the pump coupling. I would check for spanner rash on the pump coupling nuts first for evidence of tampering;)

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Well the time has come to put some new boots on the truck so i whipped the wheels off and set about trying to remove the tyres. Having beaten then with a sledge hamer and nearly knocked my teeth out with a crowbar i decided to get a bit heavy and promptly drove the land rover over said wheel in an attempt to break the bead. Still no joy and after more flying crowbars the decision was made to take them to see mr grove. All of a sudden the Scammell wheel looked much smaller and after mr Grove had put his foot down the rim was easly seperated. Me thinks a little more care will be needed to get the new tyres off the current rims and on the the scammell rims but now i am quite confident about the rest of the job. 2 down 3 to go:D

A grove bead breakercan be bought second hand in for about £50,000 and can be used for many other little jobs rond the workshop. A very worthwhile investment i think you will agree.;)

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Well done Rob , looks like even the crane jack took several attempts ! I'm glad mine were not as stuck as that ! I used a conventional sliding hammer type bead breaker ! I guess they hadn't been on as long as yours though ! What tyres are you replacing them with mate ? Look forward to seeing them on soon ! :D

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Will be fitting a set of bar grips. Can't remember what make or ply rateing as i havent seen them for two years!! I remember 4 are like new with the moulding pips still on and one is slightly worn. But they are all on the wrong rims:blush:. Not sure what they were off but i will offer the old rims for sale soon. Off to get the wheels next week if i can remember where i put them:nut: i think they are in a shed 30 miles away:-D

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Been pottering hard the last few days:D Went to see Bill and borrowed his hub puller which left me needing something to undo the hub nut. A bit of head scratching and a spot of pilfering from work saw the bits of said spanner gatherd together and huge amounts of grinding, turning. and welding later (plus the rear arm off a fordson major) saw a large spanner fall out of the workshop.

Nut was undone, hub removed and brake shoes removed in about 1 hour (not bads for a first attempt me thinks:cool2:)

Can anyone offer any helpfull tips on refitting the brake shoes? Of is it just a matter of jemmying the springs while trying to pop the pins back through the holes. And are we agreed both lips fit with the springs facing the oilyness?

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Been pottering hard the last few days:D Went to see Bill and borrowed his hub puller which left me needing something to undo the hub nut. A bit of head scratching and a spot of pilfering from work saw the bits of said spanner gatherd together and huge amounts of grinding, turning. and welding later (plus the rear arm off a fordson major) saw a large spanner fall out of the workshop.

Nut was undone, hub removed and brake shoes removed in about 1 hour (not bads for a first attempt me thinks:cool2:)

Can anyone offer any helpfull tips on refitting the brake shoes? Of is it just a matter of jemmying the springs while trying to pop the pins back through the holes. And are we agreed both lips fit with the springs facing the oilyness?

 

I jammed the end of a flat screwdriver into the coils of the pull off spring, (last coil before hook) and by pulling on this managed to stretch the springs far enough to get the waisted pins in. I didn't put the cam in until after both springs were on.

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