Ypres Trip - Day four - The End!

[Grimmer]

Today we were going to do something that most men wanted to do 90 years ago, go home to Blighty. We awoke to a very grey overcast morning which it reflected the mood of many of us who really didn’t want this trip to end, as someone who has visited this area many times in the past, this trip exceeded my expectations, several times over. Fortunately we still had some interesting places to visit before the long journey home.

 

First stop of the day was at the Scottish Memorial on the Frezenburg Ridge, the objective of Cecil Cattell in 1915 (see day two log for details). This is an unusual memorial as it doesn’t commemorate one regiment, division etc, but all people of Scottish origin who died in the Great War. It is placed near the area where many Scottish Divisions fought during the battle of Passendaele in 1917 and you get a great view over the battlefields.

 

One of the advantages of visiting the Ypres Salient is that you’re never more than 20 minutes drive to your next stop, so in no time at all we were at Railway Wood to visit the RE Cemetery which is unique on the Weston Front as there are no graves stones, just a central cross of sacrifice with the names of 8 Tunnellers and 4 infantry men who were killed whilst tunneling under the hill and whose bodies remain where they died. Also nearby is a memorial to the Liverpool Scottish whose most famous soldier has to be Noel Chavasse, who was awarded the MC for an action in the wood nearby before going on to be awarded two VC’s, unfortunately the second was postumious which leads us onto the next stop of the day.

 

The grave of Noel Chavesse is unique in any military cemetery as it is the only one to have two Vitoria Cross’s engraved on the headstone, understandably it is also one of the most visited. He lies buried in Brandhoek New Military Cemetery close to where he died at No. 36 dressing station. It was in this cemetery that we laid a wreath in remembrance of those who died in the Great War, and the honour fell to Ali Holllington who is currently researching the history of the RAMC for a degree. On route to the cemetery, our guide Iain pointed out a double roofed building which is a local brewery, an interesting in its own right, but also because it has the engine from a First World War Tank in the roof which operates a winch to get the hops etc into the building.

 

It was then off to visit a grave I’ve wanted to see for sometime, that of George Davies, the “original” Peter Pan who lies buried in Voormezeele Enc Cemetery No.3. James Barrie befriended the Davies children and told them stories in which they featured and George was Peter Pan. It seems somehow prophetic that like Peter, George would never grow old.

 

It now being lunchtime we made our way back to the same café where we’d meet Harry Patch a few day’s earlier near Polygon Wood for an excellent baguette lunch. The chap who runs it is called Johan Vandewalle, his nickname being “The Vampire”, just ask him the take his false teeth out and you’ll see why! Johan is a fascinating guy to talk to, he’s explored 19 dugouts and been involved in several archaeological digs, the most recent being the discovery of 5 Australians buried under a road near his cafe. When excavating the bodies, he found one of them wrapped in a waterproof sheet and when he removed it, he discovered that the body was extremely well preserved, to such an extent that the eyeballs were preserved in their sockets. At this point, the sun came out and the light reflected off them and for a brief moment, they appeared bright and lifelike, quite spooky I’m sure you’ll agree. Thankfully Johan took some photographs of this extraordinary event which he’s happy to share with you. What is also remarkable it that there was enough of the Australian preserved to get a good sample of his DNA which was used to identify him as John Hunter. When he died, his brother retrieved his body from no-mans-land and wrapped him in the sheet that preserved him so well and allowed him to be identified 90 years later. If you want to visit the grave of John he’s buried along with the other 5 Australians in Polygon Wood Cemetery.

 

The trip was almost over and we had one last stop to make, which was to visit what has to be one of the most beautiful cemeteries on the Western Front i.e. Bedford House Cemetery. By now the sun had burnt through the clouds and it was a warm and sunny afternoon. There was a sense of weary satisfaction that apart from the problems of the first day, all had gone to plan and that everyone had a great time. For me, there was one more grave I had to visit, that of Herbert Dudley, another of the old boys from Southend High School for Boys. I’d visited this grave earlier in year but this time it was different, now he was not just a name on a headstone or the roll of honour board, now I knew who he was, where he lived, who he loved and thanks to the fact that he was editor of the school magazine, how he felt about the war. I don’t know if it was just fatigue but I found myself unable to control my emotions, I just had to leave the group for a while and get myself together. It was whilst walking under a horse chestnut tree that a strange thing happened, a conker fell hit me on the forehead which perversely made me smile, I think it was Herbert’s way of saying “pull yourself together man”. I still have that conker.

 

I think I’ll end my diary with a poem that Herbert wrote in remembrance of his friends who made the supreme sacrifice.

 

 

In Memoriam

 

“Sed Miles, sed pro patria.”

 

“No greater love hath man,” thus saith our lord,

“Than for a friend that he lay down his life.”

So have ye offered up yourself in strife,

For right of friend and truth of plighted word.

Though sons of Peace, and loving not the sword,

Ye yet at Duty’s call braved carnage rife,

And dauntless bared the breast to meat the knife,

Where blood to cleanse a nation was outpoured.

On distant soil fond hopes were crucified,

But faith restrains our passion and our tears,

Declaring “With God’s heroes live they still.”

O, not in vain, brave souls, ye lived and died,

For great you service here, though few your years,

And great your task hereafter for God’s will.

H. E. Dudley 1896-1917

Edited October 22, 2008 by Grimmer
correct spacing

[Snapper]

Nicely finished, John. Great stuff. You jammy bugger.... Hopefully we'll be on the road again soon. All I need is permission from senior management.

You could start dropping hints to her about a fiftieth birthday bash out in Flanders or in the happy hunting ground. Seven months to the day - plenty of time. :-D

[ford 369]

thank you very much for an informataive and interesting article

[mazungumagic]

Thanks for the story - you described the scenery and the emotions very well.

 

We have memorial plaques at the base of some of the tree lined roads in our pre-eminent park here in Perth WA, detailing the names, units and ages of some who died in the Great War. I've always found it seems to produce a lump in the throat. Now I know the remedy - a 'conker' (whatever that is).

 

 

 

Jack

[Grimmer]

Hi Jack,

 

Perhaps you know it better as a horse chestnut?

 

Regards,

 

John.

[Mark]

A wonderful insight to what can be found out there, thank you very much John.

[Tony B]

Thanks for sharing.