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mazungumagic

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Everything posted by mazungumagic

  1. Gordon, Thanks for the reference to the Dodge light support bracket. Henry thought the 1917 Model T (and its predecessors) had no need of expensive instruments, so there are none. The dash is non existent (I'll try to remember to take a photo of this area next Wednesday), apart from a 1" vertical lip on the cowl. Whatever is attached to the cowl needs considerable support from someplace solid and in this case that can really only be the chassis rail. There must be a clue in one or other of the IWM/AWM's photo collection but I haven't yet come across it. David, I noticed t
  2. Apart from the guards, most of the body is now bolted up and the firewall is back in situ where it belongs. I just had to consult with Mr Dykes, to make sure I correctly attach the magneto and battery connections, on the coil box. So, here's the LH side ... ... and t'other side, While I'm happy with the colour, I'm not that keen on the gloss. We have been mixing in some flattener with the full gloss paint, but so far it doesn't seem to have achieved much. I think we'll have to experiment with an increased dosage, in an attempt to get a more satin finish to the paint an
  3. "It's looking better all the time. Nice little thing and doesn't break the bank to restore or to own." The rebuild cost is interesting. I've done a few restorations to date and probably with the exception of a WC 52, this Model T is the most expensive. In defence of the Dodge, I paid far too much to acquire it - the cost of the actual restoration wasn't that high. The T is a 1917 and therefore relatively rare, probably due in large part to the demands of the Great War. Although I got a couple of 1923/25 engines with the initial buy of T parts, I had to source a 1917 engine and the cos
  4. A little progress is being made. The weather here, which has been inclement for some time (not really complaining, mind you), has hampered attempts to top coat the undercoated panels. However the skies were promising today, so we gave everything a final rub down and erected a convenient structure on which to hang the panels. The front and rear guards as well as the LH door frame .. The rear inside tub is also partly finished ... and the door .. All the smaller bits such as the hood shelves, windscreen fittings and frames and the myriad of bolts, have been
  5. The guards have now been undercoated - in some cases a fairly thick coat has been applied to cover the rust pitted areas, particularly on the rear guards. The front ones look good at this stage - All four now required a good sanding down to provide a decent base for the top coat and I'll hopefully get to that, this Monday. As I mentioned, the rears will be harder to get smooth due to their very average start point, but I think there;'s enough primer on them now, to allow me to sand them smooth. Depending on the weather we hope to wheel the body/chassis out into the su
  6. A few more little bits added. The canopy arrived today after being shipped from the UK, a mere three days ago ! It is a first class fit. ...and a fire extinguisher has been found, polished and installed. Jack
  7. Concentrated on the guards (fenders) today. By knock off time, we reached the stage where, after a final check of fitting, some further welding and a little panel beating, we had fully prepared both front guards and laid on a coating of body filler where it was needed. I was advised by those who know on the Model T Forum, that the tapering lip on the front of my guards was incorrect for a 1917 model. That lip only arrived with the 24 model. So I removed the lip and took one of Henry’s products back a few years to reduce the likelihood of “well meaning” folk telling me I’ve d
  8. Hi Kuno, Gustaf responded with some information about tyres and Goran is quite right - the tyres are readily available, though the ones he identified (Lucas @ $99) would seem to be suspiciously cheap ! I obtained mine (the Wards Riverside variety) from a fellow here in Perth West Australia, who imports quite a number of different tyre sizes. They retail at $152 from the US suppliers, but I paid $160 here in Perth. A very good deal. All these Model T tyres are made in Vietnam and that fact is embossed on the side of the tyre. As Gustaf mentioned, there is significant comment on t
  9. Some days you don’t seem to have much to show for the hours worked - and this is one of them. However, we did actually get a fair bit done today, but it took a while. Firstly we trial fitted the two rear guards and made sure that we had the right curves and shape in the guard to match the running board connections and the fender iron. That took longer on one side than the other, due to the fact that the LH guard had been broken away at the skirt and another skirt had to be enlisted to make up the shortfall. That required a good deal of bending - you can see the results of the bending pro
  10. Thanks for that, Gus. I know we're getting a little off topic here, but do you find it intriguing that after nearly four years of the European War and the fact that the machine gun was more or less an American invention, when the almost inevitable happened, the US Army still had to forage among foreigners for an LMG ? I suppose parallels could be drawn to the British invention of the tank in WW1 and their near complete disregard for armoured progress after WW1, with predictable consequences in the next war. Jack P.S. I was involved in a live firing exercise on one
  11. G'day Kuno and Gus, Gus - I saw a thread (http://www.forgottenweapons.com/lewis-gun-at-the-range/) recently from a fellow in the US who stripped a Lewis and explained its workings, before test firing it on a range. It was a first class weapon in its day and far better than the French Chauchat, that your soldiers were issued with on arrival in France in 1917/18. Was Pershing a Francophile ? Whatever the reason, the "doughboys" were done no favours by that decision. http://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/that-damned-jammed-chauchat/ As an ex infantry soldier, I'm sure I would en
  12. During the week, I’d been thinking about the hood shelves and the wooden blocks under them. While I am aware that these blocks (2 per side) were all that was used, I thought it might be stronger, if the two blocks became one long one. As a result, I made up this wood piece to fit under both hood shelves. I know I’ll have to let in some of the bolt heads where the guard/fender is secured to the chassis rail, but that won’t be a problem. We began our day, by trial fitting the RH side sheetmetal and curing a few ills, where bolt holes didn’t actually match up or where metal needed t
  13. I managed to get an adaptor for the temperature gauge bulb, but it still isn’t the easiest to fit. I’ve used the blanked off hole on the water pump and the adaptor I picked up, has the correct tapered thread to fit that hole. The second internal plug however, is not tapered and water is sealed off by a very small shoulder on the bulb, coming into contact with a raised flange inside the outer adaptor. I had to find a thick copper washer to sit inside the smaller adaptor and that now gives it room to seal correctly - I hope. This first pic is of the adaptors screwed in to the water p
  14. Hi Gus, You've a sharp eye for detail. The radiator shell is a "Peerless". There's a bit of info about the item, from MTFCA contributors here - http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/320955.html?1352430496 This shell is only temporary - the one I'll be using has been painted and is on the shelf waiting to be installed when the time is ripe. Jack
  15. We concentrated on the LH side today and trial fitted the splash guard, running board and mudguards (fenders). I’ve removed the firewall/bulkhead to allow us to nail the forward edge of the door sheetmetal to the wood frame, so at the moment, the T is shamelessly showing off her underwear. Most of the trial fit went well, but I still have some uncertainty about the wooden blocks which I understand go between mudguard and running board. There is apparently general consensus that a wooden block is used at the rear, but the jury remains out, on the validity of one at the fro
  16. Gus, We did a little work on the running boards/fenders and splash guards today - I'll post a short writeup on that, tomorrow. We did however come up with an issue on the wooden blocks between fenders and running boards. I've done a search on the MTFCA Forum and get some confusing info. I realise there are blocks under the running boards (2 per side) at the running board brackets, but are there similar blocks sandwiched between fenders/mudguards, both front and rear, ie a total all up, of four per side ? I gather from the MTFCA folk, that while there definitely was a third blo
  17. Gus, I think my magneto is in good shape - but I haven't yet tried it. I've only started the motor once and that was via the illicit battery that I've installed, together with a starter motor ! I did charge my magnets using the out of engine process - I think the pros and cons were debated a year or two ago, on the MTFCA forum. I copied the easiest of the procedures outlined by various contributors and it worked well, but you've got to be careful not to leave the wire connected for any more than a flash - it is prone to melting, with the current going through it. Each of m
  18. Thanks, Gustaf - I didn't know that. From a logistics point of view it makes perfect sense then, that the British standardised with 3 1/2" tyres all round. I wonder if the US Ordnance machine was tempted to do the same ? It would have simplified the supply chain, just a little. Jack
  19. TMT, I think I mentioned previously that there were apparently, around 19,000 Model Ts used by the British Army during WW1. While the War Diary I have for the 1st Australian Light Car Patrol indicates that they only used 1916 and 1917 model vehicles, no doubt there were others ie 1918 models, used as well - in other Army units. Ford in the US produced over 73,000 Runabouts in 1918, so it is conceivable that some may have ended up briefly, in military service. It's obviously impossible to say if yours may have been one of them and I guess the paint colour is no indication, one way or
  20. Kuno, You're correct - the Light Car Patrols used 3 1/2" (width) x 30" (high - from tread to tread) all round, while the usual civilian Model T came equipped with 3" x 30" tyres on the front axle and 3 1/2" x 30" on the rear. That regime continued till 1919. It must have been a bit hard to predict which tyre size you should carry as a spare, though I guess either would do in a pinch. You're also correct in that either size is still very narrow. Jack
  21. So that you've got something to compare our work with, here's a photo from the Australian War Memorial collection, showing a T from the 1st Australian Light Car Patrol, somewhere in the desert.
  22. Still working on a few essential bits. The temp gauge refuses to function, so I obtained a capillary type to fit, but am waiting for the right fittings (into the water pump) to be sourced. I also found a second hand fuel gauge sender unit, but before fitting this one, I decided to check the original - which didn’t seem to work, despite having four gallons in the tank. When I removed this one from the tank and raised/lowered the float, the gauge made no effort to respond, till the float was around the halfway mark and then it bounced into life. So clearly something is wrong with one o
  23. Today, we finished off the welding of the RH panels - … and did the same on the left. This left hand panel not only needed the under sill metal welded on, but also the return under the hinge had been cut off. It's all one piece now and a trial fit shows it hasn't suffered too much distortion, despite it being extremely thin metal. We used a fair few wet rags to minimise the burning of the wooden frame, which worked reasonably well. There are a few burnt patches, but they can easily be sanded and re-painted. Only had the occasional fire. The left hand side was also
  24. Kuno, As Gustaf says, the fake door is on the drivers side - whichever side that might be. In the case of the British vehicles, it is the RH side and the available photos (doors without protruding hinges mean fake doors), confirm that there was only one opening door on these Ts. I agree with Gustaf's comments - when you see the lack of space available to squeeze past the seat, brake lever and steering wheel, you realise quickly that Henry got it right. There is just no need for a door on the drivers side. Rod, I was recently reminded of the Claud Williams report (by Kuno actu
  25. We did a little bit of work on the T today, but then managed to get diverted onto other tasks, so not a lot got done. We were however able to tack together, the RH fake door panel and the front sheetmetal adjacent to the bulkhead. That worked very well and the welding of this will be completed next week, together hopefully with the welding of the LH side – not a great deal to here around the opening door. We were also able to straighten out the lower windscreen frame, which I had obtained at the 2011 Hershey swap meet in the US for $10, complete with hinges ! It was bent ar
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