john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 :yay: Got Bertha's engine running today, quite fun without a silencer. Just the body to put back together now. Many thanks to Kewelde and all the Gang who offered advice. :tup:: Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Just be careful she dosen't get a second flush of youth and want to take on BMW's. great news.:yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 :yay: Got Bertha's engine running today, quite fun without a silencer. Just the body to put back together now. Good news, John Glad to hear it...........and just in time for the first events of the season. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 Will repost the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Nice one, John. Guess you've started thinking about the first event, with her, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 With work commitments I think the first one will be the Hythe do in July. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 With work commitments I think the first one will be the Hythe do in July.Regards, John. This the one on the ranges with parade through the town on sat ?? If so, look forward to meeting you, there. :-D All the best Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 Hi Andy, That's the one, will look forward to seeing you there. All being well will park up friday on my way to work and then go there when I finish at six. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Hi John what torque did you use for the head bolts or was it not that scientific - the book has no info so I did mine to 40 ft/lbs John (the other one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Did mine up to about 40- running fine. Couldnt find any specific info either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 I had a copy of the Morris C8 manual, and specifically looked for this. It isn't in there. We guseed 40 to 60 so did 50lbs from midle out, no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Hi Andy,That's the one, will look forward to seeing you there. All being well will park up friday on my way to work and then go there when I finish at six. Regards, John. See you there, John. All the best, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted April 25, 2008 Author Share Posted April 25, 2008 H Gang, Just looked through my work sheets and found that the first time I changed a gasket I torqued down to 48. When I started this time I pulled a stud at 22 so I had a toot at Gosney's and they sent down a fitter who put a helicoil in and waited while I torqued down. He suggested 40 which is what she's now at. Seems ok so I shall settle for that. Mebbe with the origional studs untouched it might be possible to go down more as the corrosion of 60 years might give added strength but as she was re-studded I don't think it's worth taking the chance.:sweat: I have a diagram of the tightening order if anyone wants a copy. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Just keep an eye on the water then. If it goes down another couple of pounds. The old engines are almost bomb proof. The manual says use rain water, presumably uncontaminated and soft. De-ionised or even distilled water is worth it after a rebuild. I'd stick a shot of Wynn's leak fix in just in case, but make sure it is the black crumbly stuff not the liquid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted April 25, 2008 Author Share Posted April 25, 2008 Cheers Tony, Worth bearing in mind. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 Hi John, made a mistake the stuff I was thinking off (Does happen ocassionally) Is K-Bar, its called cooling system conditioner.I change antifreeze every 18 months 2 years, and always sling some in, touch wood no water loss. Off to see Phil today a happy day hitting QL brakes with hammers. Looks like the master cylinder piston is out of kilit, only way to re position is to take it off.:sweat: There was a long discussion on anti freeze types a while back. Info proably lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted April 26, 2008 Author Share Posted April 26, 2008 Hi Tony, While you're there you can hit Phil with a big hammer too and remind him that he still owes me some canvas for an awning :thanx: Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 Off to see Phil today a happy day hitting QL brakes with hammers. Looks like the master cylinder piston is out of kilit, only way to re position is to take it off.:sweat: :shake::shake::shake: :nono: aghhhh....you are not one of those "hit it if it is not working" types, are you? Piston out of "kilit"............new one on me, only had a QL for 20 years, never had anything out of kilit on it :??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 Hi Richard, I think he means 'kilter' ie out of line but I have no idea if that can happen. Incidentally still no reply from LR re pump kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 :shake::shake::shake: :nono: aghhhh....you are not one of those "hit it if it is not working" types, are you? Piston out of "kilit". Looked it up in the Scottish dictionary,means dont know what else to do:rofl::-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 What evr it is now sorted, and not a hammer in sight, well on that bit.:yay: The answer was the master cylinder has two sections, the fornt half feeds rear brakes the back feeds the front. The front were operating but no fluid was getting to the back. The answer is that under the master cylinder is a small bolt that limits the piston movement. The bolt was losend then the brake pedal gently depressed, fluid came out from the nut , it was tigtned and the brakes bleed. Result it now stops properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 What evr it is now sorted, and not a hammer in sight, well on that bit.:yay: The answer was the master cylinder has two sections, the fornt half feeds rear brakes the back feeds the front. The front were operating but no fluid was getting to the back. The answer is that under the master cylinder is a small bolt that limits the piston movement. The bolt was losend then the brake pedal gently depressed, fluid came out from the nut , it was tigtned and the brakes bleed. Result it now stops properly. Tony, Would not mind betting the screw was the wrong side of the inner piston, not allowing it to be pushed in. Seen it before. The screw stands proud of the bore and is to stop the piston coming back too far. I collected a Dingo for a customer once, drove it back and the brakes were nearly none existant. When I stripped the master cylinder down the end of the screw was bent where the inner piston was being held from going up the cylinder. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 Fits the bill Richard. The cylinder was rebuilt by Pastparts and they did a beautiful job of it. The trouble is that little gem about the screw ain't in the manual! Studying the exploded drawing put us on track, so proves the adage, preperation prevents, P*** poor performance. Another gem for the HMVF big book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hi Gang, Bit of an update. Had a job adjusting the clutch so shang-hied Richard Farrant who had the idea of taking the gearbox out and he found the clutch plate was the wrong one, Richard is a great teacher, after 30 odd years at sea he still taught me some new cuss words. :shocked: Gearbox now back in place, when I took the rear floor plate out from inside the cab there was that much accumulated gunge round the PTO shaft and four wheel drive shaft change over levers that now it's off I should get a few more mpg just with the weight of muck off. Still a few weeks of work left to do but all being well I will make the Hythe do which is a week before The W&P. :sweat: Fortunately I won't really need the other fuel tank before Bethune so I have no pressure to rush it yet. :cool2: Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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