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Royal Enfield


Ron

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Not WD but just for interest sake. I recently acquired this 1938 Model J engine that was seized solid. A previous owner had cut the con rod to somehow remove the barrel. 

So far it's taken me 4 x 4 hour stints to get it totally stripped. When I finally got the timing cover off, the cams and idler wheels were missing, but I've got some coming from Belgium. I'm looking into replacing the "cage and roller" main bearings with standard type bearings. I've sent the sizes to my bearing guy and await his reply. 

So far I've thoroughly cleaned up the timing side case ready for bead blasting. More to follow.  Ron 

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I decided not to bead blast the cases, just hand clean them as best as I could back to their original finish. All the oil ways were blocked with a hard dry clay material, which have all been cleaned out now. I've cleaned up and reinstalled the cam followers and cam spindles. The worn 3/16" ball in the oil return spout was a sod to remove, but all cleared now and a new ball going back in. I've also acquired a complete NOS Big end and con rod (the original floating bush type.)  

It sounds like good news on the conversion main bearing issue. More details when they arrive.

Hours spent so far = 25.  Ron

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????I've no idea Steve? I'm sure a friend of mine would like it for his WD/CO sidecar outfit, but it's about 1" longer than a CO engine. I have also got a 1938 Model J front frame section to go with the engine.......Hmmm! Will it fit to CO rear frame??🤔

Ron

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Today I cleaned up the flywheels and have been soaking the timing case in cleaning solvent. (the ancient concrete look is fading) 

The flywheels are pitted where they have been sat in the clay that was in the bottom of the crankcase. I'll take advice about maybe getting the outer edges skimmed back by 1/16"or something. Ron

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I've acquired a NOS con rod complete with the usual Royal Enfield white metal floating bush big end and small end bush.

I have a NOS piston coming from Tasmania.

Darren the bearing guy has come up trumps with heavy duty needle roller main bearings. I just need to get some 1/8" thick sleeves made up to take the smaller OD of the bearings. Ron

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The timing cover had the appearance of ageing concrete. So after a lengthy process of cleaning solvent, hot water with bleach and fairy liquid, brass bristle brush, light grit blasting, wire wool and finally a light polish with Solvol........It's acceptable now. Ron

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4 hours ago, Ron said:

The timing cover had the appearance of ageing concrete. So after a lengthy process of cleaning solvent, hot water with bleach and fairy liquid, brass bristle brush, light grit blasting, wire wool and finally a light polish with Solvol........It's acceptable now. Ron

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Looks great Ron, the elbow grease has been worth it!

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OK it turns out that the NOS floating white metal big end I acquired can't be used without some serious modifications to the flywheels. Unlike a lot of RE engines, these ones were originally fitted with roller bearing big ends. So I now have a specially made NOS needle roller conversion big end coming from Belgium, which only requires the B/E eye to be bored out a touch. Apparently these have been proved on the race track.   

So my whole crank will be revolving on caged needle rollers. I have just noticed that Hitchcocks are offering needle roller main bearing conversions too.  Ron

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Yes Chris I did a very quick/rough size up against a WD/C, and the rear engine plates would need modification. Without further investigation, I would assume that the front mounting would determine that the engine would sit correctly in the J frame and that the rear plates would need to be extended up by about an inch. 

It's probably all hypothetical though as It will probably never happen. At the moment I'm "semi" enjoying the challenge of saving the engine.  Ron  

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My sleeves for the needle roller mains are made and pressed in. There is an oil hole in the outer race of the drive side bearing, so a corresponding hole was made in the sleeve, plus a groove right round so that both oil delivery galleries will supply plenty of oil. 

I now also have all the parts of my new needle roller big end ...Big thanks to Jan for donating the machined parts and to Darren for donating all the needle roller bearings......Their generosity is outstanding.

I'll be off to Ainsley soon for assembly and truing the flywheels.  Ron

 

 

 

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The crankshaft is back from Ainsley with it's new conrod and "racing" needle roller big end. I've done a dummy run fit into the crankcase to make sure there is some end float. I now need to complete my list and submit an order to Hitchcocks.

I've also acquired a good used oil pump spindle to replace the original corroded spindle. Ron

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A parcel from Hitchcocks arrived yesterday which includes the magdyno strap, which is best installed when the crankcase halves are joined. I've  put them together with cleaned up studs, all new nuts and Welseal jointing compound.

The NOS +20 piston arrived from Tasmania, I've cleaned the barrel which is on standard and dropped it and the piston at Ainsley's for a rebore. A gudgeon pin and original rings have also arrived from Hitchcocks today. I also just noticed a crack in the timing pinion gear which will also need replacing.  Ron  

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Hello Ron, I have a few spare timing gears in my box of engine parts. If you're interested I'll see what I have and send you a picture. One of the sets I have is a slightly different cam shape to the others, although I'm not sure what Royal enfield model they were from.

Send me an email if you want me to look them out.

Regards,

Tom

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I've sorted out some nice condition cams and pinion gears from different types, fitted new bushes and thrust washers and screwed the cover on with new screws. No gasket fitted as yet as the cover will have to come off at some point to install and time a magneto.

The cylinder and piston are still with Ainsley, so I'll probably start on the head next. Ron 

 

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I picked up the rebored barrel today from Ainsley and checked the ring gaps before installing them on the new Hepolite piston. Just got to do the final cleaning and spray with VHT paint.

The valve guides were quite worn so I pressed them out and fitted new ones. Fortunately they are the same as a WD/CO so easy to obtain from Hitchcocks, and the valves are good too.   Ron

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