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Tom M

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Everything posted by Tom M

  1. Hello Ray, I might be able to get access to one in Larkhill, Wiltshire, if that’s not too far. Send me an email if you’re interested. I can always meet you down there with my Jeep which was used to tow a 75mm howitzer in 53rd Light Regt RA. Regards Tom
  2. Tom M

    Royal Enfield

    Hello Ron, I have a few spare timing gears in my box of engine parts. If you're interested I'll see what I have and send you a picture. One of the sets I have is a slightly different cam shape to the others, although I'm not sure what Royal enfield model they were from. Send me an email if you want me to look them out. Regards, Tom
  3. Hi Steve, I’m so impressed with the quality and speed of your work, I hope my G3WO comes out half as good! Can I ask what you do with your nuts and bolts etc to get the factory fresh look? Where did you get most of your spares from? I bet you’re looking forward to getting it out on the road! P.S. in case you find your exhaust pipe finned clamp repair does not hold up I’ve just found that I have a spare. Tom
  4. P.S. would the light have had a number plate window like my Carrier?
  5. Hi Peter, this is what I have. It’s yours if you want. Just let me know and I’ll post it. Regards, Tom
  6. Hi Peter, I found this image on Google. If it’ s the type without the number plate illumination, then I have a spare rubber part you can have (it needs the internals and lense though). I fitted one to my early Canadian Carrier, with the number plate cut out, and got it from a guy in Canada who had a few (from MLU forum). I’ll email you his address if you want it. LWD parts also has them for sale (see picture). I also have a spare Rubbolite No5, but I think this might be for trucks and it has a number plate window. P.S. I’ve just remembered I still owe you something for the steering rod covers you sent me. Regards, Tom
  7. Thanks John, I can start marking up the Carrier now.
  8. Hello to you all, I am looking to restore my Mk1* Carrier according to an early war/Italian campaign paint scheme. Can any one tell me if there was a standard size to the White/Red/White flash that was painted on early war AFVs? When was this flash introduced and when was it superseded by the allied star? Cheers, Tom
  9. Definitely, the BV is always top of the list of things to make room for. We even had requests for cup holders, but they didn’t make the cut!
  10. Hi Richard, I’ve not crewed a CR2, but have worked on it during my time in REME. My knowledge comes from working on CR3. CR2 is certainly up there in terms of overall performance, and even more so now with the new upgrades, but as with all MBTs, performance is a balance between protection, firepower and mobility. You might manage 2 of them, but will be hard pressed to achieve the maximum performance in all 3 areas. Excelling in one area almost certainly compromises another area, so it’s a case of working out what the right compromise is for the vehicle’s proposed use. Hence why we had so many different tank types in WW2; heavy and well armoured tanks to support infantry (mobile pillboxes), but lighter and faster cruiser tanks for fighting mobile tank battles in open country. I think it took until the Comet until we managed to get a satisfactory balance between firepower, protection and mobility. Even now, if you compare Challenger, Abrams and Leopard, each of them have pros and cons. Which is better depends on which battle you’re fighting! Not forgetting that one of those battles is logistics, tanks are little use without ammunition, fuel or spare parts!
  11. The US use NATO compatible ammunition, but it’s all US derived and manufactured, if they buy ammunition in they tend to manufacture it in country under licence.
  12. Sorry Gents, it’s been a long day. In answer to Mr Grundy’s question, we have to stow the stub cases for 2 reasons; firstly the MoD don’t want stub cases littering the ranges and training areas, so it’s principally an environmental issue. They can also be reworked I believe. Secondly we have to account for fighting the vehicle in CBRN conditions, when you can’t open the hatches, so we have to allow stowage space for the same number of stub cases as there are complete rounds. Hope this answers the question.
  13. ‘Extra space’ - believe me it wasn’t there for very long! As you say the biggest challenge with this project was finding room for the one-piece ammunition, which is a lot harder to stow in the confined spaces of the vehicle than the three-piece ammunition from the L30 gun. Particularly when you consider that the HE round weighs just short of 30kg. Plus you have to stow the stub cases that are ejected from the breech, as we’re not allowed to throw them out the hatches. Ammo is stored in a purpose built bunker in the turret bustle, as well as racks on both sides of the hull. All the ammo is from Rheinmetall and made in Germany, I don’t think there are any plans to make it in the U.K. One of the biggest benefits of the smoothbore is that it’s used across NATO so the cost of developing new ammunition is spread across all the NATO users and not born by one single nation, unlike the L30, which means the ammunition is under constant development and new ammunition is not cost prohibitive.
  14. Hello Gents, I’ve just had a quick look on eBay and fortuitously managed to pick up a pair of Bowden clamps, for less than £40, so just need the barrel now. Steve, I’ll give you a shout when I start the restoration. Just waiting for my new workshop to be erected in a couple of weeks so I can spread out and see what I need for the G3. Always like reading your posts as a reminder of what can be achieved. Are you still in need of the steering damper plates or did you find one? Regards, Tom
  15. Hi Lex, Yes the barrel went to me, but it’s still with Ron until we’re cleared to start travelling around again. I’ve been slowly building up parts, but nothing like the progress being made here. Hopefully the restoration will start this summer when my new workshop is built and Steve has stopped hoovering up all the parts 😉. I’m looking for a 1” throttle twist if anyone knows where to find one. I have a G3L carb and barrel I can trade/part ex. Regards, Tom
  16. Hello Fred, Welcome to the forum and military vehicle ownership! There are lots of very knowledgeable motorcycle owners and restorers on here who are always willing to help with advice. Take a look at the WD motorcycle forum as well, another great forum and source of advice, parts etc. I have a couple of WD motorcycles, and based in Wiltshire, but not a Triumph 3HW I’m afraid. Good luck with the restoration. Regards, Tom
  17. That was quick work Ron! I’ve had another look at my notes from my discussion with the dynamic balancer place. They said that the cranks would need to be balanced to within 0.5 thou. As mine were 4 thou before I stripped them, and you have managed to get yours to 2 thou, I’ve come to the conclusion that 0.5 thou is I achievable for a 1940s split crank. I’ll be eagerly awaiting your first test run to see if you’ve reduced the vibration. I’m currently thinking of putting a standard piston back in as I don’t think I’ll be able to get the engine balanced professionally with the higher compression piston. I’m on the edge of my seat waiting to hear the results of your work. I’m crossing my fingers for you. Regards, Tom
  18. I need a rear rack, an outer chain case and a throttle twist grip if anyone has one for sale? I have a G3L rack to trade if anyone needs one.
  19. Hi Ben, I recently found a Humber wheel in woodland (ex US WW2 vehicle depot) near Salisbury. I can let you know roughly where it is if you're local and feel up to hauling it out. It didn't look too bad, rusty but solid. Although I didn't inspect it in great detail. Regards Tom
  20. Hi Steve, I’m in awe of how much progress you’ve made on such a short space of time. Mine hasn’t moved since it was delivered unfortunately. Just an observation, and it maybe the camera angle, but the spoke at 3 o’clock looks like it might be pulling out of the hub, or wasn’t aligned properly before being tightened up. Might be worth checking so you don’t lose a spike on your first run out, or as you peddle round the garden on it. Regards, Tom
  21. Hi Steve, I will have 2 spare damper plates, when my parcel emerges from the postal system. I ordered 2 NOS from Lex to save me replating my ones, so the ones on my G3 will be spare. I can’t say when though as MyHermes buggered up the delivery so the parts are on their way back to Lex, I hope. Regards, Tom
  22. I have heard that you can et the examiner to come out to you to do the exam, in the vehicle you will be driving, as long as it's roadworthy. You'd just need someone to take you through the test scenarios and somewhere to practice.
  23. Hi, I did my H licence through Tanks A Lot, maybe 18 or so months ago, on one of their Argocats (small 6 wheel tracked thingy a bit like a quad bike), which cost about £500 if my memory serves me correctly. Unfortunately it looks like they have stopped running this course now and do it in a 432 instead, which is more expensive. If you're not familiar with tracked vehicles and you intend to drive one on the road, I'd advise attending a decent course that covers all the maintenance aspects as well, as if it goes wrong on the road it will do a lot of damage. The Argo cat was fine if that's what you're going to drive, or you have experience with larger tracked vehicles, but it's nothing like a military tracked vehicle in terms of size, visibility or damage potential! What are you intending to drive?
  24. A quick scan over facebook last night looking for 15cwt forums came up with 2 WOTs which were sold on ebay in the last three to four months. I didn't even know they were up for sale. Damn, missed them both. One of which was a very original looking early aero screen vehicle, which would have been lovely. Someone got themselves a very nice vehicle. Where do people find is the best place to look for vehicles? Obviously, just watching MilWeb is not enough!
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