MiketheBike Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 Hi i have recently replaced the manifolds on a ferret b60. When I removed the studs from the head, quite a bit of water (coolant) drained out. Are the stud holes open to the coolant system, or is there something to worry about? Could/should I use some sort of sealant on the studs/holes? I fitted all new studs, all threads are in good nick, and I have never noticed any coolant loss before ( I have yet to start it up after replacing studs and manifold. cheers, Mick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 On the b40 the stud holes are open to the cooling system. I presume the b60 would be similar chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 You could try this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381003339 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted October 7, 2020 Author Share Posted October 7, 2020 1 hour ago, Chrisg said: On the b40 the stud holes are open to the cooling system. I presume the b60 would be similar chris Thanks Chris, that is music to my ears and made me a very happy man!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted October 7, 2020 Author Share Posted October 7, 2020 19 minutes ago, sirhc said: You could try this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381003339 Thanks Chris, was thinking of using clear silicon but this looks a much better option!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 Just putting it all back together. The studs have a small taper at the end, I assume the taper goes into the head and maybe helps with sealing as the coolant system is open to the studs? When I took the old ones out some were taper in, some were taper out. thanks mick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 Umm.. A local firm laser cut me some aluminium shims for the exhaust - the exhaust melted them 🙂 melting point of Ali is 630 degrees C. Diana 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 3 hours ago, MiketheBike said: Just putting it all back together. The studs have a small taper at the end, I assume the taper goes into the head and maybe helps with sealing as the coolant system is open to the studs? When I took the old ones out some were taper in, some were taper out. thanks mick The long thread goes outwards (taper end) and short thread goes into the block, this is normal practice. regards, Richard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 25 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said: The long thread goes outwards (taper end) and short thread goes into the block, this is normal practice. regards, Richard Bugger!!! Richard, will it be a problem if its the other way around? I assumed it was the other way around and cracked on and did it all earlier Thanks, Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 Mick, With the long thread in the block, the stud will be shorter from the block face to tip, also the thread protruding inside the block is likely to rust and if you ever needed to change the stud it may well cause you pain. Other issue is as the stud is not protruding so far you may not get enough thread for the nut, the nuts are special being longer but I recall not threaded all the way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 Hi Richard you are correct, only the last half(ish) if the nut is threaded, but even with the longer (tapered) thread inside the block, the shorter thread does still protrude through the nut. I have used the thread sealer that Chris recommended, so hopefully that should help with rust. The old studs came out very easy (in fact two were loose. I may just bite the bullet and take them out again...these things come back to bite you in the end. Many Thanks Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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