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New ferret


Manylandrovers

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All,

I have recently acquired a Mk2/3 ferret, reconverted back to Mk1 - so no turret. Just front and rear plates and rubbber strips around the hatchway.  It had sat in a hedge for about 17 years covered in brambles ( it was the second or two that Nick Mead advertised)
After a couple of afternoons cleaning points, ensuring leads had continuity etc and jury rigging a fuel supply it runs having burnt off the copious quantities of oil I threw down the bores to lubricate them. (My endoscope showed that they were dry but not rusty amazingly) the engine fired up, but would only idle. It wouldn’t pick up and accelerate. I imagine that after all this time the carb will need cleaning and maybe a few jets unblocking - no surprises there but I wonder if the lack of response to the throttle might be something else - can anyone suggest anything? I’ve got to put the ballast resistors in because they have been removed- I have some spare fortunately. Much work needs to be done - all four corners need the brakes freeing off. And amongst other things needs an exhaust!

Thoughts  welcomed.

Andrew

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Checked the condenser. It semed fine but was replaced anyway. I’m beginning to think it’s an advance issue. The rotor arm seems slack for about 5 degrees before the springs take up the extension. Might be ? I’ve changed the rotor arm over and checked the limiter doesn’t fly out to easily.

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Still not sorted. I’m beginning to think that the inability to rev up is due to either a stuck gearbox or the fact that it was left in gear and due to all the brakes seized on the engine is trying to rev but the transmission  won’t let it. Given that most of the interior is stripped is it better to take the engine out or try and get the gearbox out through the top (mk1 spec so no turret) . If one removes the engine or gearbox as single units does one have to pack something underneath?

So much to do....

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm right behind you: Just over a week ago I bought a Ferret someone added a turret to, removed the turret.  It had sat for a decade or two and was right filthy.  Brakes are all seized and carburetor trouble.  In my case I got lucky in the previous owner had left a modified wrench in the vehicle that did a good job removing the nuts and I've (so far) kept them all.  The wrench in question was bent 90 and then back again to provide more leverage.  It also was narrowed at the end to give more range of stroke.

Mine ran great the first time I moved it around the lot but barely would move under it's own power the a couple days later, opening the Solex  showed a bad diaphragm. I guess it had just one trip in it before it bit the dust.

I'm in the USA so at a distinct disadvantage getting all but the simplest of spares spares. For instance I'm totally out of luck for the Solex parts until I find someone willing to ship internationally.

Anyway, best of luck on the project.  I'll try to keep up. 🙂

 

Edited by teletech
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  • 1 month later...

Indeed, how does one measure the timing on a Ferret?  I read something about a special setup so it is very late near 0 speed so it won't rip your arm off when crank starting and timing lights aren't helpful, but don't actually know how to set it.

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15 minutes ago, Manylandrovers said:

My format for this site has gone totally to pot - it’s now in text only. Anyone else have this problem?

Well I was off this forum for something like two years because I hated the new user-interface and only just recently came back, so I'm not of much help.

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On 8/18/2020 at 7:05 AM, Manylandrovers said:

Gearbox out (through the top). It is seized solid. (No great surprise last given the view through the inspection cover) Engine now revs well - and runs nicely with the electronic ignition from the cvrt although I’ve no idea what the timing is.....!!

Ok, now I've officially joined the "I installed electronic ignition and it works, but I don't know my timing" club.

I went with a Crane XR700 optically triggered unit and just hid it under the ignition coil.  It works fine so far as I can tell in the driveway.  Sadly I can't take a test drive as I broke my foot a week ago.

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22 minutes ago, teletech said:

Ok, now I've officially joined the "I installed electronic ignition and it works, but I don't know my timing" club.

I went with a Crane XR700 optically triggered unit and just hid it under the ignition coil.  It works fine so far as I can tell in the driveway.  Sadly I can't take a test drive as I broke my foot a week ago.

Where did you get it?

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1 hour ago, Manylandrovers said:

Where did you get it?

The Ferret or the ignition module?

I simply bought a Crane XR700 universal ignition unit off Ebay, The new units are labeled "Fast" rather than "Crane", so Fast XR700, they are on Amazon and such as well.  Actually the 3000 model might be a better choice as it self-limits the coil current and I think has rev-limiting as an option.  Anyway it was about $80US and pretty much dropped right in.  I did use a 24v to 12v converter I picked up off ebay as well, just put that module in the engine distribution box where the connector plate and dropping resistors had been.

  I fed the 24V module from the ignition wire and used the wire going to the coil for the output.

Getting the three small wires from the coil to the distributor into the shielded cable is going to be slightly annoying I expect, but hearing it run you know it's all worth it.

 

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