Manylandrovers

Who owns it, then? What’s is it’s correct ERM?

Wow that’s some advance. i was setting the valve gaps on my b80 just now prior to setting the ignition and am confused why the rotor arm is about 45 degrees out when the flywheel is tdc...? Even at 10 degrees atdc the rotor arm is nowhere near the no1 terminal inside the cap...

Is that the only reason (Petrol quality) they retarded it so much?

Hence why someone said you could advance it as far as the slots in the mounting allow

Is that the only reason (Petrol quality) they retarded it so much?

Oh, if I can make sense of that( Luddite here)! I’ll try it

Where did you get it?

Interesting. When I disconnect the WiFi connection on my iPhone, it returns to normal. I’m having this problem with pictures as well. There is something about my BT wifi.... cant do it on my iPad as no cellular data link. Frustrating.

My format for this site has gone totally to pot - it’s now in text only. Anyone else have this problem?

Gearbox out (through the top). It is seized solid. (No great surprise last given the view through the inspection cover) Engine now revs well - and runs nicely with the electronic ignition from the cvrt although I’ve no idea what the timing is.....!!

I agree Clive. One of the reasons I fitted mine to the Ferret was to do away with the worry of mis-synchronised points. One of my early problems in getting the Ferret to run was that it was only running on the front 3. I discovered eventually that the “bridge” between the terminal post coming in from the coil and the post for the fixed contacts (ie the bridge that runs under the baseplate) had fractured and although I soldered it I wanted to do away with that hassle. The cold staring characteristics of the electronic ignition, from my experience of J60s, is excellent. As it is, the conversion seems to have gone well. Although as I mentioned above hasn’t cured my inability to rev. (I now believe the latter is down to a seized transmission....) The conversion took me a while to do properly - routing a second wire (made up of that rather good, thin Cvrt red LT wiring) through the armoured cabling and ignition filter (just enough space ). You wouldn’t ever know the difference. I’m going to try a conversion on My B80 using a second hand Jolley unit...

Mm, I can’t see why that it is necessary.. I don’t know if cvrt coil units were changed when they introduced electronic ignition. The housings changed as they will have had to incorporate the fuse for the rev limiter, but the coil itself? Clive will no doubt be able to tell us:-)

While in the subject of electrics I see on eBay people selling Ferret Ammeters, but none of the diagrams I have show them. Were they fitted to later mks perhaps? im going to fit one from a landrover shunt box as I quite like monitoring the output of the generator, plus I’m going to have a BV, with the relay circuit taken from a gen + line somewhere.

It’s a B60 base unit Inc weights and springs. - the drive dogs are not the same...But yes I guess you could have swapped the springs and weights from the cvrt over - I didn’t.

Yes but Clive it’s going the other way so should be a minus figure...

Many thanks. I did transfer over the plug with the ceramic connector for the wire (usefully is had a separate pair of terminals which I used to connect the 24 volt feed from the ign junc box to the module, rather than a single long length of wire). the limiter works at 4850 revs I believe which is a tad high for the b60. I might see if the OEM rotor arm will fit as that has a useful limiter built into it but at a lower speed.

Well it fired first time - so that’s good news. You can’t see the difference. A tad fiddly at times - it’s a lot easier with the oil cooler removed. it hasn’t got rid of the underlying problem of only idling and not being able to rev above about 800 revs though. I’m now onto my third carb. I think I’ve work out exactly what special tools I need for this. A couple of modified spanners I think...

Thanks Richard - am half way through. Doing a bolt on - bolt off swap with every component that needs to swapped.ie screened leads from junction box to coil and from coil to distributor.

Still not sorted. I’m beginning to think that the inability to rev up is due to either a stuck gearbox or the fact that it was left in gear and due to all the brakes seized on the engine is trying to rev but the transmission won’t let it. Given that most of the interior is stripped is it better to take the engine out or try and get the gearbox out through the top (mk1 spec so no turret) . If one removes the engine or gearbox as single units does one have to pack something underneath? So much to do....

Thanks Clive - I got hold of a cvrt REME electrics training publication some time ago which has the diagram, not that I understand it. Electronics I never understood at school....

Dear All, some advice please. For some time I had been thinking of converting my Humber 1 Ton to electronic ignition using the innards of a cvrt distributor. Now that the Humber is gone, I have replaced it with a Ferret I would like to test out my theory. With a spare distributor base I have swapped the electronic module into it, lengthened the cables and am preparing to swap it in. I’m pretty sure I can run a second lead inside the screened cabling from the ignition junction box, through the filter into the coil to join with the red cable coming back from the ignition module. This second lead provides the 24 volt supply to the module and will be taken off the terminal in the junction box, before the ballast resistors. My question is do I need to Earth the black lead from the module which is the limiter circuit for the ignition or can I do without it (rumour has it the Army often used to take the fuse out (isolating it from earth) to prevent the limiter circuit operating anyway - at the risk of overrevving clearly. ) I don’t think I will be needing it, in any case it would be set to high for the B60.???? I don’t think using the ignition module in reverse will be a problem. Anything I have overlooked? If it doesn’t work I will simply swap the original back in. Andrew

What an arse. Never occurred to me it might be an ignition fault...It was running on 3 cylinders. No spark from 4,5&6. Hopefully that’s now sorted but carb is still suspect....

Well bent a ROJ into 90 degrees. Easier to get off now, Getting back on a lottery. One of the nuts is down the black hole of Calcutta...

I’d love to know what spanner was used to get at those two nuts...a very short one..