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Cracked block


Great War truck

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Blackpowder, I bow to your experience... I'm a mine of useless information and I'll offer some more soon no doubt. :-D

 

Being as the first posting in this thread was in 2005 it may be a bit late but having been a lurker on the G503 forums for quite some time now, I've read many people that don't recommend using sealing 'potions' as although they may block a crack, they can also block places that you wouldn't want blocked. Is this reasonable or scaremongering something that's unlikely to happen? just out of curiosity.

 

cheers

Stuart

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Blackpowder, I bow to your experience... I'm a mine of useless information and I'll offer some more soon no doubt. :-D

 

Being as the first posting in this thread was in 2005 it may be a bit late but having been a lurker on the G503 forums for quite some time now, I've read many people that don't recommend using sealing 'potions' as although they may block a crack, they can also block places that you wouldn't want blocked. Is this reasonable or scaremongering something that's unlikely to happen? just out of curiosity.

 

cheers

Stuart

If you can easily get to any external crack then I would stitch it. This causes no stress to the metel, I did my jeep which had a crack in the usual place above the distributor, caused when tightening up the head,stitching is very easy, just add rad seal to cover any very minor seepage that may occur.Pouring any sort of gunk into the radiator may cause more problems. Always remember gunk may fill the existing fault, but the fault may extend itself in time.Stitching binds both sides of the fault . Hope this helps. John

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I've read many people that don't recommend using sealing 'potions' as although they may block a crack, they can also block places that you wouldn't want blocked. Is this reasonable or scaremongering something that's unlikely to happen? just out of curiosity.

 

 

 

Hi Stuart,

 

Cooling system sealers have come along way, modern ones do not solidify in the radiator core, like the old Barseal "dog turd". Those things were a curse where someone had a persistant leak and they kept adding another one to the rad. One I use now is K-Seal, which has ceramic micro fibres and copper in a solution and will only seal where it finds a leak.

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Hi Stuart,

 

Cooling system sealers have come along way, modern ones do not solidify in the radiator core, like the old Barseal "dog turd". Those things were a curse where someone had a persistant leak and they kept adding another one to the rad. One I use now is K-Seal, which has ceramic micro fibres and copper in a solution and will only seal where it finds a leak.

 

Would it be any good for a cracked block thats been brazed/welded and is weeping?

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Chris,

 

They do state that it will seal cracks and leaking core plugs, as well as rads. The company is down your way, at Plumpton, website is www.kalimex.co.uk

 

:)

 

I'll have to give it a try. Tried most other things. This is on the E type not the Champ. I was in one of their stockists to day

Edited by Chrisg
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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member)

If it starts leaking again use one of the ceramic sealers that doesnt mix with a/freeze,i have found theses more permanent.

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  • 2 months later...
If it starts leaking again use one of the ceramic sealers that doesnt mix with a/freeze,i have found theses more permanent.

 

Catweazle,What is this, and where do I get it?

I've had a small crack in my jeep block for years, usual place above the distributor. It only weeps for a short time after start up and shut down, so it is'nt a problem really. More cosmetic, but is very annoying to see the whitish stain down the block after a run.

When I first rebuilt the engine and noticed the crack, I was given some 2- part stuff that came in an orange and blue egg cup shaped plastic containers. You had to grind a vee into the crack (not good), then fill it with this stuff which was like grey body filler.

It lasted a while, but started weeping again. I've learnt to live with it, as it is'nt a problem, and I do'nt have a cooling problem (touch wood), but I would like to try and stop it without resorting to major surgery!

I've tried many additives, but none seem to work.

 

Jeff

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I was given some 2- part stuff that came in an orange and blue egg cup shaped plastic containers. You had to grind a vee into the crack (not good), then fill it with this stuff which was like grey body filler.

 

 

 

Jeff,

 

From your description of the packaging, that sounds like it may have have been a Belzona product. Good stuff, providing the block is prepared and clean.

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)
Catweazle,What is this, and where do I get itJeff

Its called CAR~GO,there are others i believe,you need a true ceramic sealer ,i find K seal has failed long term more than any others,You have to follow the precedure to the letter.Have a look around if you cant find it i will send you a bottle.CW.

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Jeff,

 

From your description of the packaging, that sounds like it may have have been a Belzona product. Good stuff, providing the block is prepared and clean.

 

Yes, that was the stuff Richard, It had been recomended by a guy from Westland Helicopters, so I figured it ought to be good. maybe I was doing Something wrong.

Having been in the bodywork trade for nearly 40 years I have found that it's rarely the product that's at fault. I've also come across some real crap in my time.

 

jeff

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Its called CAR~GO,there are others i believe,you need a true ceramic sealer ,i find K seal has failed long term more than any others,You have to follow the precedure to the letter.Have a look around if you cant find it i will send you a bottle.CW.

 

Thanks C.W. I'll look for it, if I fail, I'll contact you re cost etc. As I said, it is only a cosmetic thing, but it does spoil the look of my hard work under the bonnet see pic. (weeping not visible, only my own sobs of frustration!)

 

Jeff

14. Willys block. Ford head..jpg

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I had a hairline crack on my GPW's block and after cleaning it up to replace the head gasket I found two minute cracks in the head and a leaky head stud that I didn't put enough sealant on. Doh! Kseal seems to have fixed them all so far, although it's only been 4 months ish. :yay::yay::yay: (always wanted an excuse to use the dancing gals). Good work on that engine bay Jeff! just needs a bit of mud on it now :D

 

I should add that the first bottle of kseal didn't work on the head cracks so I used a second bottle which done the job. Not sure if I done anything wrong with the first bottle or not but no signs of water being poluted and no sign of water leaks. Now that's fixed I've got another oil leak.

Edited by melchy
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