andrewroberts.1953 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Dave If you can email me at andrewroberts.home@virgin.net whith your address, I will send you a diagram. John If you take the cover off very carefully, you will find the resistance wire has snapped. You will need to rap the parted ends with very fine wire, and solder both ends back. If you have a problem, email me and if you send the item to me I will repair for you. Take care when you put the wodden cover back on the tank, as it's easy to use screws which are too long and hole the tank. Also make sure you replace the felt on the straps, better than felt is very thin rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Essex5 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Thanks for that info, Andrew - I used to be a telecom engineer so I thought I could probably sort it, just wanted to check that it wasn't going to self-destruct into a thousand pieces if I took the cover off :-D. I managed to get all the original screws out of the plywood cover, so they're going back in! I was going to use some more felt, but soak it in waxoyl - I can find some thin rubber or plastic if that's better? Interested to find that the tail-lights are single filament, with stop-lights mounted higher up - I thought they were rear fogs. I'm tempted to put twin-contact lampholders in the rear lights so they are combined stop and tail? (But not until after the MoT - don't want to start altering things that are OK for now!) Put the POR15 in the tank today, left it sitting with a hot-air gun on cold to speed up the evaporation. Now I need to clean out the rest of the fuel system, having eliminated the source of the rusty gunge! Still quite a bit to do:shocked: John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewroberts.1953 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 John You should not have a problem, if you can work with tinsale wire you can do anything! The lamps are single, as the stops are flashed to act as turn signal. If you put twin fil ones in, and have the tails on the lamps don't last long. Also, remember that you need have the lighting switch one postion to the left to get the turn lights, stops etc to work. The other odd thing with Dutch MUNGAs is that the heater fan and heater pump run when the start button is pushed. This was done to stop the pumps seizing, it's not a wiring fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meteor mark 4B Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Andy, re trousers, it's called wardrobe shrinkage! That's what RN son in law calls it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 DaveIf you can email me at andrewroberts.home@virgin.net whith your address, I will send you a diagram. John If you take the cover off very carefully, you will find the resistance wire has snapped. You will need to rap the parted ends with very fine wire, and solder both ends back. If you have a problem, email me and if you send the item to me I will repair for you. Take care when you put the wodden cover back on the tank, as it's easy to use screws which are too long and hole the tank. Also make sure you replace the felt on the straps, better than felt is very thin rubber. Hi Andew, Did send e-mail just checking to see if you received it ?. My Address is david@dmears50.wanadoo.co.uk This was condition of block and pistons when head was removed,when I picked this up in Edinburgh I drove it 30miles before it finaly gave up the ghost. :-( Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewroberts.1953 Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 David Sorry I did not get an email from you, I will email you for your address. Well the two stoke did get you that far, even in that state! I think I had better put some info in the pack, about how to do mre than head. The head gasket is the same as the Wartburg 353, the Barkas B1000, and other Auto Union cars etc. If you get stuck, I have a spare gasket to hand. I have found that if you drop the bottom end of the engine, not all the way. Gentle push one piston down at a time, and with a flap disc on an electric drill, you can remove the worse of the rust. If you take the whole crank out, you have to have three piston ring compresors to get the thing back in. And without the specical jiog, it's easy to snap a ring. Also make sure the seal rings at the crankshaft end are offset by 180 degrees to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 After removing the Head and seen the results it's a good job that I took the offer of a Stack of spares just arrived from Germany it included a spare Engine after a check by a Mechanic it was given the thumbs up. Amongst all the spares for £150.00 was a complete windscreen ,Gear Box, Hood, etc. There was boxs that I have not had a chance to check out yet. Dave:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 DavidSorry I did not get an email from you, I will email you for your address. Well the two stoke did get you that far, even in that state! I think I had better put some info in the pack, about how to do mre than head. The head gasket is the same as the Wartburg 353, the Barkas B1000, and other Auto Union cars etc. If you get stuck, I have a spare gasket to hand. I have found that if you drop the bottom end of the engine, not all the way. Gentle push one piston down at a time, and with a flap disc on an electric drill, you can remove the worse of the rust. If you take the whole crank out, you have to have three piston ring compresors to get the thing back in. And without the specical jiog, it's easy to snap a ring. Also make sure the seal rings at the crankshaft end are offset by 180 degrees to each other. Hi Andew, I managed to obtain a Gasket from Germany and it arrive a couple of Days ago. The Mechanic who is REME TA with his own repair shop took the spare engine's head off and recons with a replacement gasket it should be OK fingers crossed. Any info would be appreciated, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Essex5 Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 John If you take the cover off very carefully, you will find the resistance wire has snapped. You will need to rap the parted ends with very fine wire, and solder both ends back. I must be very lucky, the resistance wires were OK, corrosion on the centre spindle had stopped the float moving. The phosphor-bronze spring at the earthy end of the wire was not making contact with the body, so I soldered a wire to it and ran it out through a screw-hole to pick up the earth under the screw. Tests fine so far! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 After removing the Head and seen the results it's a good job that I took the offer of a Stack of spares just arrived from Germany it included a spare Engine after a check by a Mechanic it was given the thumbs up. Amongst all the spares for £150.00 was a complete windscreen ,Gear Box, Hood, etc. There was boxs that I have not had a chance to check out yet. Dave:D [ATTACH=CONFIG]30355[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30358[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30357[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30356[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]30351[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]30352[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30353[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30354[/ATTACH] Any spare inner grilles mate?..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Sorry the only two body parts are the Windscreen and Bonnet also bumper otherwise you could have certainly had it no problem Dave;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Thanks mate , will keep looking ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Essex5 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hi Dave - don't suppose there's a horn button surround ( the bit that keeps it in the wheel) in your box? Mine seems to have all the bits of the push, but the retaining ring is broken. Being very cheeky, do you have any plans for the hood? The one on my Munga is sound around the edges, but has two rotted bits on the roof where water has pooled, and also needs a back window. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 still after a poor roof for a template (munga 4 )...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Hi Dave - don't suppose there's a horn button surround ( the bit that keeps it in the wheel) in your box? Mine seems to have all the bits of the push, but the retaining ring is broken.Being very cheeky, do you have any plans for the hood? The one on my Munga is sound around the edges, but has two rotted bits on the roof where water has pooled, and also needs a back window. John Hi John, The store that I have the spares in are a couple of miles from the house so I'm not down there all the time but I will check the next time I am there. I do know the Wheel and Columb are attached and horn is there but cannot swear that the part is there but if it is it's yours. As for the Hood I dont have any plans for it the only problem would be getting it to you from South West Scotland,what I will do is take photos of it and you can decide. Dave:shocking::shocking: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Cheers mate, (we have the bar that goes over the screen but nothinbg else).. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 (edited) Just been to the Garstang rally , picked up a Jerrycan( 1954 )for the Munga .Think its french /belgian . definately not british , anyway for a £5 it was a bargain will put pic on next time in garage . Update Dads been checking out the jerry can book. it was made in germany for the french and its for oil ,seems a better bargain now.... Edited July 4, 2010 by Willyslancs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Essex5 Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 still after a poor roof for a template (munga 4 )...... I'm sure if I can get a better one, then my holed one will be available for template purposes. Dave - No rush for the horn push, I have fitted a multi-function stalk temporarily for MoT testing. Have just repaired the 7-way switch today, the headlight connection had burnt out. I have rebuilt it by refacing the static contact and replacing the moving contact pip with a brass roundhead 8BA set-screw, soldered in. Seems to work a treat:yay: John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewroberts.1953 Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Well, it looks like things are moving along well in MUNGAland. Good haul of spares, which should help to keep things going a lot longer. The jerry cans for the MUNGA, have large fillers. Someone did have a load, but i can't remember who at the moment! I hope to send out info to people today, so you should get something in the post shortly. Canvas hoods/doors, I have a chap in the process of getting the bits to make some. The hardest part is the large turn buttons. He has found a supplier in Germany, is taking delivery in the next week or so. Carry on MUNGAing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 hi andrew , hope alls well mate ...happy mungaring here .....:nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Hi Dave - don't suppose there's a horn button surround ( the bit that keeps it in the wheel) in your box? Mine seems to have all the bits of the push, but the retaining ring is broken.Being very cheeky, do you have any plans for the hood? The one on my Munga is sound around the edges, but has two rotted bits on the roof where water has pooled, and also needs a back window. John Hi John, Some good news and bad news the retaining ring is missing but the good news the Hood seem's in good condition. Please check photos:shocked: Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Hi All, I Apologize to the person who asked if I had any Gauges but I seem to have lost the message:cry:, the only one I can find at the moment is a Speedo if that is of use to you:-D Dave:writing: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Essex5 Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Dave Bad news about the horn push - worse than mine! Didn't realize you were American - when you said there was a 'hood', I assumed you meant the canvas roof, which is what I was after:D (Nice looking bonnet, though:eek:) OK, one more try - how about the pre-cleaner for the air-filter? ( the tubular thingy that has a sediment bowl underneath) Andrew Received a wiring diagram in the post today - I assume it was from you? In which case, thanks very much, and I owe you a favour:angel: John (with fingers crossed for the Munga's MoT in the morning:sweat:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinaimears Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) Dave Bad news about the horn push - worse than mine! Didn't realize you were American - when you said there was a 'hood', I assumed you meant the canvas roof, which is what I was after:D (Nice looking bonnet, though:eek:) OK, one more try - how about the pre-cleaner for the air-filter? ( the tubular thingy that has a sediment bowl underneath) Andrew Received a wiring diagram in the post today - I assume it was from you? In which case, thanks very much, and I owe you a favour:angel: John (with fingers crossed for the Munga's MoT in the morning:sweat:) Hi, Sorry about the HOOD but worked with the 101st and 82nd for 3 1/2 years and seemed to have been Armericanised if there is such a word, as for the item mentioned I'm sure I have but will once again try a photo to make sure it's the correct item. Dave Edited July 7, 2010 by Sinaimears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewroberts.1953 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Yes, I forgot to put it in the lot I sent before! Good luck with the MOT, I am sure you will not have a problem. If you do, get in touch as I have an email from VOSA about some of the problems with test stations and MUNGA's. Dave Bad news about the horn push - worse than mine! Didn't realize you were American - when you said there was a 'hood', I assumed you meant the canvas roof, which is what I was after:D (Nice looking bonnet, though:eek:) OK, one more try - how about the pre-cleaner for the air-filter? ( the tubular thingy that has a sediment bowl underneath) Andrew Received a wiring diagram in the post today - I assume it was from you? In which case, thanks very much, and I owe you a favour:angel: John (with fingers crossed for the Munga's MoT in the morning:sweat:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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