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1941 Royal Enfield WDC


rampant rivet

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Very nice and if anyone is interested in an easy restoration, I have this one going spare. I've had it running and the engine sounds sweet but the mag is flagging. Matching frame and engine from contract C7890 (1940) and with it's original 1946 registration (which is quite apt actually) . PM me. Ron

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On 10/3/2018 at 8:58 PM, rampant rivet said:

New boots today

 

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when I look at your fuel tank I can't stop wandering if my badly eaten swiss cheese one isn't from a different bike than a wdc or wdco. Especially at the side of the saddle mine hasn't got the sharp edges that yours seems to have. Can it be that my tank isn't the right one or that it has been altered? I'm currently looking for someone who can restore it, but if it turns out that this also isn't the right tank for me I can better take my time and look for an apropriate one.

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Edited by PaulJager
typos
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Just now, Chris Hall said:

It looks to me like that piece has been modified, I don’t think any British manufacturer would build a tank like that, it’s to labour intensive and therefore costs. Can you post more photos of your tank, underside, side and front will help massively.

I will post them in my topic, not to mess up this one too much with my questions. 😄

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9 minutes ago, Ron said:

Paul if it helps, this is an absolute genuine tank from a first contract WD/C. Ron

 

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Sure looks different than mine. And indeed I also can't see a manufacturer making the tank like mine is right now. These extra curves and welds that you introduce by this way are not mass produced easily. Can't think of a reason why this has been done. But finding an original replacement will be kind of hard I guess. And costly probably.

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17 hours ago, Ron said:

Very nice and if anyone is interested in an easy restoration, I have this one going spare. I've had it running and the engine sounds sweet but the mag is flagging. Matching frame and engine from contract C7890 (1940) and with it's original 1946 registration (which is quite apt actually) . PM me. Ron

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Now sold!! Ron

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Well here's a thing! And it's happened before! I was not getting a glimmer of a spark from the mag. I even plucked up the courage to hold the plug lead end in my fingers and even with a good kick, not a tingle.

Put the mag on the bench, wound it up with a drill and it's sparking perfectly. We can see the the mag and dynamo have recently been overhauled.

This has happened to me twice before (Matchless G3 and Triumph 5SW) both with rebuilt mags. Even my long term mag guy couldn't give an explanation???  Ron

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Sorry to hijack this thread  but  I have a Wisconsin engine with a magneto and I get a tiny spark from the end of the plug lead, (not enough to create a spark at the end of the spark plug).

Unfortunately its a big job to remove the cover to clean the points, or anything else for that matter.

Since I'm not up on magneto's I wondered if any experts might be kind enough to give me any pointers?

 

TIA

Jim

 

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1 hour ago, Ron said:

Well here's a thing! And it's happened before! I was not getting a glimmer of a spark from the mag. I even plucked up the courage to hold the plug lead end in my fingers and even with a good kick, not a tingle.

Put the mag on the bench, wound it up with a drill and it's sparking perfectly. We can see the the mag and dynamo have recently been overhauled.

This has happened to me twice before (Matchless G3 and Triumph 5SW) both with rebuilt mags. Even my long term mag guy couldn't give an explanation???  Ron

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Overhauled or tarted up? Perhaps the speed had something to do with? I bet a drill is faster than kicking it over.

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Don't know Chris? But the HT lead and or plug should spark against the mag body whether it's in or out the bike. It's baffling! The owner doesn't want to spend any money on the mag until we've tested it back on the bike. Can't argue with that. 

 

Ron

Edited by Ron
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I was thinking along the lines of the path of least resistance. On the bike could the condenser be leaking to Earth  (the frame) but on the desk, assuming it’s wood, it’s insulated and therefore the path of least resistance is through the wire and plug back to body.

im no electric wiz kid so that may not even be possible.

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I can't work it out myself Chris. I clamped it in my vice for testing. But when I have taken mags to my guy for testing, he just stands them in a jig and spins them with an electric motor. Same difference to my mind. If it was up to me, I'd want a full internal examination and test. But at the moment it looks like I'll be fitting it back as it is. Hey Ho! 

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