PaulJager

I did already take it apart completely and cleaned everything. Replaced gaskets and made sure everything moved like it should. I indeed found the pilot jet screw settings too, so I will start from the one and a half turn out position. We will see.

I will have to check. There are multiple booklets now in my archive thanks to Jan and the forum, but I don't know for sure if this one is among those.

And again, another question: Are there any tips or hints available to get the Amal 274 carburator in some sort of starting settings state? I tried to find information with Google, but all I got was adjustment tips and how it works, but not what the starting positions of the different screws and cables should be to first get it in a more or less working order for a first startup. Does anyone know this? It is because I replaced the 276 carb that came with the bike with the 274 type that should be on it. I overhauld it at basic level and would like to try to fire up the bike maybe this weekend, but the carb then needs to be in a sort of basic settings state I assume, or not?

That is off course another explanation. And not too weird being it 80 years ago that it saw the light almost. I will just remove the bolt and use the hole again as it should.

That is a clear difference. Beginning to think: could it be that I have a CO case half instead of a C case? Having threads in the hole would make sence in that case or not?

OK, just to be sure. Didn't read it as how you intended it. I will make sure I remove it. Thanx.

Does this mean that there should be a bolt inserted into the hole in the bottom of the timing chest then? Or could I just remove it and let the oil flow back through that hole and don't worry about it? Because I cannot imagine the valve lifter sliding onto the spline and stil have enough room for a bolt to be there. I'm glad the slit in the casing should be there any way. I was worrying that I again found some problem with a bike that should have been 100% complete and OK. But maybe the second oil drain plug, the one closest to the rear wheel, should have come out too. Which I neglected to do.

I do have to say that I only removed the oil drain plug that is closest to the front wheel. I notices that there are 2 plugs, but figured that if the first one would not give me any oil, the 2nd would probably not have to be taken out. Maybe that one is holding the other 1-2 Liters of oil that I was thinking of being able to pour into the casing?

Hi Chris, there was already a bolt in there and it does seem to have threads in the hole too. But I was trying to think logically and could not understand how the oil that will be feeded to the timing chest would be able to flow back to the casing of the motor if the hole was covered by this plug. Maybe best to remove it then.

Another extra question: should there be a bolt present within the cilinder head in the bottom of the valve and valve lifter "cabinet"? In my WD/C there was a bolt present, but I think that the valve lifter, when slided onto the spindle, will not fit anymore the way I have it now. I already reduced the head of the bolt, but when looking in the parts list I even couldn't find a bolt of which I would think that it is the one I have. Or does the hole in the bottom of the "cabinet" have to be left empty to let oil find it's way back into the motor housing below?

The clutch is working again by the way. For some reason there was a rod pushed into the shaft already, but not the right one. I replaced everything as it should and it works again fine now. Thank you all. Could also replace the rubbers while I was at it. They seemed to have the original ones still there, completely mushy and spongy. So, another job done.

Hi Jan, thanx for the information. Then, still I couldn't get 1 Liter in or am I using the wrong conversion? 1 pint is about 568ml as far as I could find with Google. Even with 1 Liter there was already spillage over de rim of the filling opening and besides that also from the gap between the 2 halves of the housing.

I will look at the numbers to make sure the halves belong to eachother. But besides that, should there be some kind of overflow gap between the halves to let excess oil out?

Can anybody tell me if the edge of the motor case should be straight and all the way round should exactly line up with the other half or not? I was filling up the engine with oil, but even 1 Litre wouldn't fit. I looked in the CO workshop manual and was thinking the C should also need about 4 pints, so just over 2200ml. But besides spilling the oil over the edge at the fill opening, the is oil dripping pretty much through a slit in the housing. Should the slit be there and should it be spilling oil there?

Thank you Jan. I was not sharp enough to look into the parts catalogue, dumb me. I saw the number there too. I will order the proposed springs.