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Help needed with Morris windscreen details


Rick W

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Calling all C8 owners out there, especially ones with a digital camera! The windscreen surround and a couple of other bits came back from being sandblasted today. Now all the layers of paint and rust have been expelled from the frame I can see what I have to do. There is nothing left of the bottom, where it swings out, which I knew anyway. But the screen looks like it is either made out of 2 screens or it has been repaired at some point in its life with complete disregard to what the other side should look like. If any of you out there have some windscreen close ups you could post, or if I could trouble you to take some photos I would really appreciate it. When I get my camera tomorrow I will post some pics so you can see what I mean. Thanks Guys

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Further to that the wiring diagram I have for the electrics is for a negative earthed suppressor schedule 2D for wireless vehicle. Now as far as I go with electrics I can wire a plug but no more! We have wired ours up to be positive earth. Is it just a question of where something like the panel lamp grounds to neg on the chassis on the diagram changing it so the feed to something like the panel lamp is negative and then grounds out to + on chassis? Forgive my stupidity, give me a 2,000 year old pot and I could tell you when and where it was made and who by. Electrics is the "Invisible magic" in my world.

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It's fairly easy Rick,

 

Starter is series wound so won't be affected. Wiper motor MIGHT be affected but it will only affect the park position of the blades.

 

Reverse the battery in it's cradle to get the right terminal at the earth braid/cable but do not connect it yet.

 

Switch over the low voltage terminals on the coil.

 

If you have an ammeter fitted reverse the terminals.

 

Lastly the only "tricky bit" - reverse the polarity of the dynamo - to do this this re-connect the battery.

 

The polarity of the dynamo is controlled by the residual magnetism in the field pole pieces and this needs to be reversed by passing current through the field in the new direction. This can be done by holding open the regulator points with a piece of card and connecting a jumper wire from the battery live terminal to the F terminal ( the small lower connection) on the dynamo or the regulator, whichever is most accessible. The idea of holding the regulator points open is to prevent excessive current flowing through the regulator and dynamo armature. The jumper wire should give a small spark when it is connected. It is only necessary to let the current flow through the jumper wire for a second or two, after which the polarity should have been reversed. The piece of card may now be removed from between the regulator points. While this operation is being carried out, the points should not be closed by accident; if they are a very heavy current will flow and damage will result.

 

Thats all there is to it sir.

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AHHHH.. with the best will in the world! To repolarise a dynamo. DON'T connect it to anything!! Fit the dynamo in the cradle. Then BEFORE you wire it up touch the live to F. Military manuals specifically say DON'T use the regulator. :shake: One touch is enough. As far as panel lights etc go, bulbs aren't fussy which way they current goes. Haynes do a good manual on Auto Electrics. Get a decent multi meter, when God made electricity he didn't make it visible.

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A Dynamo uses a regulator box to control volatge and current going to battery. Alternator don't need them as it is built in. If you have converted to electronic ignition, good choice by the way, then as long as you have followed the destructions that should work fine.

 

The Regulator consists of three coils with spring contacts. As long as it is working correctly leave very well alone.

 

1. Fit dynamo to cradle. DO NOT at this stage wire it up. Fit battery.

2. Take a jump lead from the power feed side of the battery. If you are on Positive earth this will be the - Negative side of battery. Touch the jump lead once to the Feild F contact on the Dynamo. This will polarise the Dynamo.

3. at this point wire up the Dynamo to the regulator box. Check, Double check, fit and CHECK again. Get this wrong and it will really hit the fan.

4. Check battery voltage it should be around 12 volt.

5. Start engine.

6. check voltage on idle. it should be around 13.6

7. Rev engine it should go no more than 14 v.

8. Assuming you have all the following go on your way rejoicing.

If the voltage goes up to 14.6 or above there is a problem with the regulator.

not wanting to teach you to suck eggs but to much info rather than to little. At this stage check amp meter. The meter should read about 25 amp then drop. If the Amp meter goes into discharge. 1. Check you have it wired correctly. 2. If there is still a discharge, then the dynamo or regulator may be at fault. at this point yell for futher help.

 

 

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Rick,

screen surround looks like that on the MW,..........next time I've got a camera handy, I'll take some pics,..they MIGHT help you. :dunno:

Won't be able to post then on here,..............still havn't worked out how the load the program from didgi camera.

PM me a snail mail addy, and I'll bung them in post, soonist.

 

Andy

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This being the voltage regulator that Lee illustrated, there are 2 spring like contacts and its these that have to be kept open?

width=640 height=480http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o72/rik242_2006/restoblog003.jpg[/img]

 

The springy thingies actually vibrate. When current is going through them they close to charge the battery, when current drops they open to prevent discharge. they are the hells own job to repair or calibrate. You should have at least three terminals Battery, generator (Dynamo) and feild. Go through the drills and see if you get the voltages at the battery you should. Honestly do not try and use the regulator to polarise the Dynamo or have it connected when you do. A simple explanation is doing so could turn out to be **&&$$ expensive.
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Thanks Andy PM sent,

 

Thanks for the advice Tony. I think initially I will try and get all the wires in place over the next week and follow your instructions and see where we are at. Fitting an alternator is an interesting idea. The dynamo is run by a chain on the bottom crank. An alternator would need to be run by the fan belt, but there would be no physical room to place the alternator with the bonnet on.

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HI Rik,

 

If you send me your e-mail I have pix of another C8's windscreen and I'm just assemblying mine so I have all (I hope!!) the bits which I can photo for comparison. Would that help?

 

Just spraying all my cab and cowling parts after sandblasting/priming/filling etc. Saw Julian M at Belting was it was nice to catch up with him and his neat C8.

 

cheers mate

Simon

PS Still no luck finding a C4 for my wireless house or a GS body for my C8....

 

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Rick,

 

Will send photos soon, but both halfs of windscreen will be the same. They both overlap the centre post.

 

I made a new wiring loom for mine, got all the correct cotton covered wire from Auto Electrics.

I copied the original loom and wired mine Negative Earth, so much less hassle.

 

Pleased to have completed another 200+ mile trip to Beltring with no problems, averaged 45mph quite nicely on the M25.

 

REgards

 

Julian.

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Rick,

 

I have been reading this thread and wondered why you have wired up your Morris with Positive Earth, when it should be Negative earth. I am certain the CAV 75BT-19X control board fitted, is only designed for use with Negative earth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thank you all, I dont know why we came to the conclusion it was positive earth. It was probably a combination of 3 head scratchers making 2+2=5. Should have paid more attention to the wiring before dismantling it! I carefully unravelled the loom from the Morris , labelled each wire up with a sticker with a code number for reference and duly wrote them all down on a couple of sheets of paper. Can I find that sheet of paper? Can I b****r!

 

Saw a pic of your Morris on another thread Julian, was that your White next to it?

Yes both sides of the windscreen do overlap the middle, but I dont know if you can see from the photo one side seems to have a larger surround than the other side. If it is a running repair, its going to be a bit of a pig to completely refabricate another side from scratch. If I get chance I will take a couple more detailed photos of each side. Thanks all

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Rick, will be tinkering with Bedford, tomorrow,......so I'll get those pic's as per last message.

I recieved your last PM.

 

All the best,

 

Andy

 

(sorry its taken so long,...........things kinda came up, that needed sorting first. :roll:)

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