Tom M Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Hello all, I am at my wits end with my Jeep wiring, but I am hoping that someone must have come across and solved this problem before. I am trying to wire a rotary light switch on my '44 Willys (I think it should be a pull switch, but it was fitted when I bought the Jeep), but I cannot get the lights to work as a modern car does, i.e: Brake lights working, no side or headlights. Side lights on, with working brake lights. Headlights and side lights, with working brake lights. If I wire as per the wiring diagram, with a few alterations to get the front BO marker lights and tail lights working together, all I can get is brake lights on their own or head lights, side lights and working brake lights. I cannot get side lights to work independently and have working brake lights. Every way I have tried ends up with no brake lights or sidelights which come on when I push the brake pedal. My description may be as jumbled as my wiring loom currently looks, but if anyone can make sense of it, how did you wire your switch so that you can drive with your side lights on and have brake lights that work? Many thanks, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 If the Jeep is like the Dodge, and I suspect they are. They wern't fitted with side lights. The combinations you have are correct, but you need to add a separate circuit for sidelights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 I suppose I could use the redundant black out driving light switch, but I was hoping to use that as a hazard switch when I fit the indicators. Does anyone know where to get the negative feed from? One of the light switch terminals or somewhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I'd use the blackout switch for what it is meant for. Then any additional switches can be hidden somewhere. Worth fitting LED bulbs for indicators, bright and small. I also added a cheap 6-12 volt buzzer from Maplins. What I did for side lights was hide two LED strips under the front wheel arches. When on at night the glow lights the arches and gives the width of the vehicle, which the main reason for sidelights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Although I have the push/pull switch, I guess the principle might be the same. I took the feed for the brake light circuit from the screw that attaches the switch to the in line circuit breaker - i.e. Bypassing the switch but keeping the piece of mind afforded by the circuit breaker. After that it was just a case of using a meter to determine which terminals were needed to get the sidelights/sidelights + headlights options. The brake lights now remain operable as long as the battery is connected. Does that help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 That makes sense. I thought I had tried something similar before, but my sidelights kept coming on every time I braked, but I wired through the switch rather than coming straight off one of the circuit breakers. I will try that tomorrow. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Can you post A picture of the switch ..from the dash view and a second for the connectors ... Also can I clarify if you are on 6v or 12v Jenkinov Thanks Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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