secondshooter Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I spotted an old landrover today on the side of the road for sale $1800 ono , was tempted enough to turn around and go back for a look , I think it was a series 2 (not a Landrover expert) SWB soft top , army green , fat tyres and fitted with a Holden 179 straight six . a bit rough all around with modified bumpers and snorkel air cleaner. I will go and have another look tomorrow , besides rust in the chassi (where in the chassi is most common for terminal rust ) what else should I be looking for , any advice from the experts would be greatly appreciated ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Go over the bulkhead thorougly. That can rot to pices and is a git to replace. Try the 4x4 especially the low drive, and if it sticks in low, make a fuss, pay less, then insert a washer under the spring where it goes into the transmission tunnel. :-D They also can jump out of gear when the box or gate is well worn. Back chassis member and out riggers are favourite for rust, but can be replaced reasonably easily and cheaply and the front chassis legs, that bumper could hide a multitude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rog8811 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 The wiring insulation can get a bit crispy as well, wires that cross from the chassis/body to the engine need to be inspected. As tony said, the baulkhead, especially between the windscreen and the vents and the A pillars. The footwells are relatively easy to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcot1751 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 The outriggers and footwells rot out as does the rear cross member and dumb irons ( where the front bumper fixes). Check that it isn't already in 4wd hiding a broken rear half shaft. The usual engine and running gear check for any car applies oil in water, water in oil etc etc. Door tops also rust although they are relatively cheap to replace. Ex Military chassis are usually better protected and better grade steel anyway so not quite as bad as civilian models but rust is the killer on ALL Land Rovers so check that first, engines and running gear are less of a problem, at least in the UK, because spares and replacements are everywhere. Good Luck :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondshooter Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Thanks for the replys Gents , will go back after lunch and take a good look and hopefully a test drive ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 PS Proper military back members are square, the civi version is angled on the underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zuffen Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I had a LWB Series 2A many moons ago with a Holden 186 in it. I managed to break a rear axle and the layshaft in the gearbox on a trip to Fraser Island. I don't believe the Landy driveline is up to the torque of any Holden 6. Bigger tyres will make it even more fragile. For non-Aussies a Holden 179 is a straight 6 about 30 litre capacity and is a smaller version of the old Chev Stovebolt engine. Oh, I should add it will be flat out at 100kmh, if you can stand the noise of the engine screaming its head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondshooter Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Had another look and it did have a fair bit of rust in the chassi , I suspect it will be terminal (or at least out of my budget) to repair. I have been bitten by the bug though and will continue to search. my ideal would be a SWB factory V8:-D And thanks Zuffen for your description ! I forgot the Northern Hemisphere don't have Holdens ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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