Richard Farrant Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Tim, Would it not be possible to stitch the crack, using Metalok system or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevpol Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 very nice, quality work. Mark :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 Thanks for the positive feedback guys. We could stitch or weld the lid, but luckily we have two spares. One of them has been left upside down in the mud and is a little corroded (most of the writing has gone), while the other one might be cracked as well. Will keep you updated. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 If worst came to worst, would one of the originals make a pattern for a new casting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 Yes. We have done something similar with the toolbox lid for the Peerless. In fact thinking about it Steve made a new lid for his Thornycroft gearbox. He didnt have an original so he made a pattern first. Did a nice job. I will upload some photos of how far he has got with the J sometime. Tim (too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 Awesome work. If you were a sculptour you'd be wimnning awards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 (edited) Some more photos of my Bank holiday weekend. We started to dismantle the donor gearbox. As the first two bolts came free thick black oil started dropping out. All looking very promising: As the cover came off, even more oil came out. Luckily the drip tray was to hand: The nuts on the next cover were in a state, but we managed to use a dremmel (marvelous tool) to cut slots in them and then turn them with the benefit of a hammer and a punch. You can see that one of them sheered off. Then lots more oil and a little water came out. Next we had to get the nuts off that hold the brake shoes in place. These were a little rusty and tight. But they did in the end give way. After that we were suprised to see that the shoes came off without (too) much trouble. After that it was a case of unbolting and removing the UJ. This did not seem to take very long as i only turned my back for a moment and Steve and Tony had it done. The benefits of being submerged in good sticky oil i suppose. : Then the brake drum was removed, again without too much bother. it just needs a good tidy up and a skim on the lathe to make a good surface for the brake shoes to work on. Edited August 27, 2008 by Great War truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 Yes indeed Thank goodness that the case was still filled with oil otherwise:shake::shake: its certian you would'nt be getting anything useful out of that area !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Oil! Looks more like liquid Stockholm Tar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 21, 2008 Author Share Posted September 21, 2008 After we had freed up the donor gearbox we checked to see if anything would still turn. This clip is on HMVFTV but i thought it would be relevant to have a link to it here. http://www.hmvftv.com/watch/cd194a4b1e6992063e94/WW1-Dennis-gearbox-partially-dismantled Please ignore my confused daughters voice saying "what are you doing". She says that a lot, and who can blame her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sisu Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 Great work, actually didn't expect anything else...! You must be a giant, I just compared you guys against the old Land Rover in your garage...! ...the gearbox seems to be working very smoothly now, thanks for the video! Cedric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted October 1, 2008 Author Share Posted October 1, 2008 (edited) Thanks. The video adds an extra dimension to it all. In the meantime, Father has been busy painting up the gearbox: Which is looking quite good now. Steve has been spinning in brass the oil filler breather cover for the gear box. Here is the breather showing the hole drilled off centre: Edited October 1, 2008 by Great War truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted October 1, 2008 Author Share Posted October 1, 2008 Steve will be along in a moment no doubt to tell you exactly how he did it. He is becoming a dab hand at it now. Here is a series of photos showing him in action: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Thanks Tim. Must learn how to post pics! Just thought you might be interested to see some metal spinning. This process is not common in the home workshop but I read about it and thought it worth a try. Now I can do it, it has proved its worth on many occasions. The first pic shows the wooden block or 'chuck' as it is known over which I am about to push that disc of brass. The brass has been lubricated with soap as grease tends to fly off at speed which, in this case, was about 1400rpm. The second and third pics show me pushing it over using a piece of polished and hardened silver steel set into an ash handle about the size of a baseball bat. The great length of handle is required to generate the large forces needed for the process although in this instance the job is quite small. The brass work-hardens during the process so it is annealed again by heating to red heat and quenching, just the same as with copper. After about four annealings, the brass has been pushed down hard on the chuck and can be trimmed and polished up with emery. The final job was to rivet it onto the casting. One more job done on the road to completion! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Please ignore my confused daughters voice saying "what are you doing". She says that a lot, and who can blame her. For me it´s a sign she´s willing to learn. Keep up the good work, I´m learning too! Regards, Hanno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 In the sixties had to go to Birmingham to pick up a load of copper hot water cylinders, they were not all finished and so I sat watching them being made. The tops and bottoms where spun by a similar method, and a very big long wooden lever was used, the tops/bottoms were rolled on to the cylinder in another shop so I missed that bit, but the whole thing was very fast. Must be a very satisfying skill to have acquired Steve, and what a nice sunny workshop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Watching an expert spinning is quite fascinating and there are a good couple of clips on Youtube. My efforts have produced satisfactory results but I am by no means fast at it. The whole process is a bit hard on the lathe too, as it puts fairly severe side loads on the bearings and, as you can see, I only have a modest Myford Super 7. The pics were taken through my workshop window at about 5pm. Good for pictures but actually quite blinding at times. Normally I run on three strip lights placed on each wall and an anglepoise on the bench I am always amazed to find that some of you chaps carry out restorations without a lathe. Goodness knows how you do it as I would be completely lost without mine! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Watching an expert spinning is quite fascinating and there are a good couple of clips on Youtube. My efforts have produced satisfactory results but I am by no means fast at it. The whole process is a bit hard on the lathe too, as it puts fairly severe side loads on the bearings and, as you can see, I only have a modest Myford Super 7. The pics were taken through my workshop window at about 5pm. Good for pictures but actually quite blinding at times. Normally I run on three strip lights placed on each wall and an anglepoise on the bench I am always amazed to find that some of you chaps carry out restorations without a lathe. Goodness knows how you do it as I would be completely lost without mine! Steve I did think whilst looking at that shot that it was quite a strain on a Myford. Suppose not too bad on the softer metals, kept annealed like you did. Got a lathe myself but only used on a few jobs on the 101 and Ward so far but invaluable when you need it. Haven't tried metal spinning YET! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 Time to add some more photos of what we have been doing. Nothing very exciting really, but when tackling these old beasts there is a great deal of the mundane to do. In these pictures we are still dismantling the donor gearbox to get the insides for a rebuilt shell. There is a great deal of head scratching involved as you try and work out how some bits have to come apart. Father has been making odd tools to aid in this as you will see from these next photos. After this job has been finished we will probably never have to use them again. A collar to go around the shaft so we can pull it out: The shaft now extracted: Pulling out a bearing Shaft and bearing now out Puller on a spider. We had to get it rather hot Another collar to pull out the shaft and bearing All looking very nice A second empty box at last. Now we can start cleaning everything up to put back together in our other box. Tim (too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 Sorry. Some more dismantling to do yet. Just to let you know that we have not been resting (well Father has not thats for sure), this is what has been happening in his own words. Decided to dismantle the push-rods from Gearbox 1 and leave those from Gearbox 2 as that is the actual Gearbox works that we are going to use. Just thought that I would preserve those for the time being. Nothing is ever straight forward and I assumed that the end casting must have been a push fit into the tube. But I find that both tube and casting are threaded and the 3/16" cross pin was put in afterwards to lock it. Obvious, I suppose, really! Anyhow, some heat got the bits apart after I had knocked the pin out - but I find that the thread is peculiar - I cannot identify it. It is 16TPI and the outside diameter of the mail thread is about .808". Obviously I can match the thread in the tube by screw-cutting it - but it is an odd-ball. And with the casting screwed to the tube, then that stops my idea of locating the casting last of all on the shaft so that the groove for the pinch-bolt on the Fork can be put in as a "best guess" before hand. I guess it must have said on the original drawing where that groove should be located. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Toolmaker, engineer, archeologists, historians, coachbuilders, coach painters, grease monkeys, is there no end to your collective talents? :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 A bit further along, Father says: Just the thread to be put in the first one and the groove for the Pinch Bolt. Really not quite sure how to do that and get it in the right place! I have started on the second one as well - they will both have to be slightly bored out to 3/4" at the end for threading and I shall probably do them both at the same time - rather than finish off the first one now! The series of 4 holes are at different distances from one another - and I thought first of all that some one was told to slap four holes in the shaft and they were put in "anywhere". But I did check on the other gearbox and found that they were at the same distances apart as well - so that is where they have gone on the replacement! However, Steve had further thoughts: The four holes are to stop it being hydraulically locked when you try to change gear. They give a way in and out for the oil as the tube moves over the shaft which acts like a piston. As far as getting the pinch bolt slot at the right angle is concerned, I suggest that you clamp a bolt/piece of bar in the old slot and then angle the change rod until the bolt is vertical. If you can hold it in the machine vice, to do this, you can use your protractor to measure the angle of the end casting to the table. Then it is just a case of setting the new one in the vice twisted until the casting is at the same angle to match the protractor. You will get within a degree which will be quite good enough. As for me, well i will be pleased when it is finished, it is under the floor and i dont keep banging my shins on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 More progress: It is all coming together very nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Beautiful work , shame that much of it will never see the light of day again , since you will never need to open that very well restored gear box ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Are you tempted to modernize the sealing of the gearbox with a few strategically placed O rings to help retain oil? I can see a lot escaping between those selector rods and the brass bushes unless there's good seal on the retaining plate. More great work by the way, but that's what we've come to expect now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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