robin craig Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Gents, we will hopefully start the strip down of a "Sankey" type trailer soon. What do most people use to remove paint on something this delicate? Does the tub come off the chassis easily? Anything to watch for? Thanks Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retriever Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 the body tub is fixed to chassis by about 8 j bolts then lifts off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Hi Robin, how about a restoration blog on your project and how you get on? I need to do my Sanky after the Landi., could prove most usefull. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Andy, I was going to do exactly that. You might notice that I have done photos and text on most things we do already. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utt61 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 When I stripped the paint off mine many years ago I was able to get the top 7 or so coats off using a scraper (an old chisel), since the surface preparation used on the first military-applied overpaint was poor. The final stripping was done using significant quantities of Nitromors. Mine was ex-RM and during the scraping process I was able to uncover various markings including the commando 'dagger' on the back panel. Sadly a lack of space later forced me to sell the trailer, something I still regret. It was an original 15cwt type, and I also regret never finding out if it really did float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 As well as the bolts you need to knock the pins out of the lifting rings that also go through the tray floor which is fiddly. Mine is a MK3 but I think they all have rings in the tray? I wire wheeled mine with my angle grinder then hammerited the underside twice then put rubber underseal then new rubber strips between metal. I plan to plywood out the interior....one day :red: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 The fun bit is removing the underseal (Narrow Tracked Sankey) its an absolute b to get off. I have been using an old sharp chisel and the MK1 arm to scrape the underseal off. If you're lucky large lumps will drop of revealing lovely deep bronze green paint underneath the sealant. I also found that it helped to remove all the loose paint from the sides of the trailer mildly therapeutic as well seeing paint flake onto the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 Couple of quick thoughts, The undercoating is of nuclear quality, as anyone who has removed it knows or has welded a series Land Rover chassis. Frankly I'm inclined to check it and remove any flaking bits and patch in rubber type undercoating and give it an overall black paint job. Can you explain what you mean about the "lifting rings", I think you are actually talking about the tie down points inside the trailer bed. I have asked before, does anyone have a sketch of the layout of the duckboards they could throw up? R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 You should have two D rings on the A frame and two on the rear X-member. I suppose they were also slung using barrow type 3 leg-slings on hub discs and draughteye. I have taken a few detail photographs of duck-boards - will post them up later. Army replacements were of a simplified construction and often slightly different on dims.. You may as well copy an original but will need to use a router for trenching , I use a Dado set on a DeWalt Radial-Arm saw. Generally the correct stuff is 1.1/2" x 3/4" & 1.1/2" x 1" dressed unsorted and that is exact dims. not commercial PSE. Screws are steel - but you may be better off using brass.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Yes I think we're talking about the same thing...tie down points, they swivel around. The pin gets rusted up underneath and has to be punched out but theres very little space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Depends on how much time & availability of good timber , obviously eased edge & vac-vac plus T + Cross-halving joints is better. For the easy life - the middle Army copy (painted green) will do the job. If you need exact dims. - then I will lay the bottom one out for photograph and try and superimpose the measurements.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ruxy, pics are grand, can I presume / assume that he ones for the wide track trailer are same principle just made to suit? That helps a ton, my co worker is known for his wood working skills and we will likely use pressure treated dimensional lumber and coat the cut edges with preservative. Brass screws may react with the preservative so will see. Many thanks R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Wide-track is just the same but errr wider !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPA-Adventurer Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Yes I think we're talking about the same thing...tie down points, they swivel around. The pin gets rusted up underneath and has to be punched out but theres very little space. Any tips on getting the pins put of the bottoms of the tie down points? lots of rust on mine and I'm wondering if the pins can be knocked out either way....or is there only one direction they'll slide out? both ends of the pin look the same, but that might change once I've taken a wire brush drill attachment to them, lol cheers Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPA-Adventurer Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 the body tub is fixed to chassis by about 8 j bolts then lifts off Any tips on getting the pins put of the bottoms of the tie down points? lots of rust on mine and I'm wondering if the pins can be knocked out either way....or is there only one direction they'll slide out? both ends of the pin look the same, but that might change once I've taken a wire brush drill attachment to them, lol cheers Jase ...ahh, now they're cleaned up I can see that they're "roll pins" eg a hollow pin with a split running down the length will need to buy a roll pin punch, does anyone know what size punch I'd need (cos that'll stop me having to buy a whole set, lol) cheers Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold_War_Collection Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Just saw this, great news about the trailer project Robin! To remove paint for sensitive stuff, we have found that soda blasting works very well, you can even "tune" it so you can take one layer at a time in most cases, (helpfull for finding markings and such) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.