GlosterMB Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 If this question is in the wrong place I apologise. I have a Willys MB that I wish to take to shows far and wide across the country. I have a Discovery 300Tdi that has a 3.5t towing capacity and a nose weight of 150kg. The weight of the jeep is 1.6t or thereabouts and it is 11ft long by just under 5ft wide. I think that an Ifor Williams type flatbed trailer of over 2.6t gross would be best weightwise. What would be the best length trailer to buy to get the balance right? What does the 150kg nose weight mean? Quote
gritineye Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 I have one of these trailers 20 odd yrs, have done a huge mileage with competition vehicles which are about the same size as a Jeep. Loaded backwards the balance was perfic as they had Salisbury axles and ally V8s. Other way round would most likely be perfic for you, but a bit of ballast works wonders if needed Having the sides on means no chance of sideways movement, the ramps that came with it are very heavy and affect the balance when stowed underneath, so lighter ones would be better for your use I would think. I used and abused it for my work as well, much more useful than a car type trailer, and it's the right width, useful when you're tired... Quote
earlymb Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 Are you sure about the weight of your jeep? Our standard MB weighs just over 1 ton. Greetz David Quote
GlosterMB Posted March 17, 2011 Author Posted March 17, 2011 Are you sure about the weight of your jeep? Our standard MB weighs just over 1 ton. Greetz David Kerb weight is, as you say, just over the ton but with all the crap I carry in it I reckon 1.6 is a good guess;) Quote
barrynevuk Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 What does the 150kg nose weight mean? The nose weight is the weight the trailer puts onto the towing vehicle via the hitch/hook. Quote
Tony B Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 What does the 150kg nose weight mean? The nose weight is the weight the trailer puts onto the towing vehicle via the hitch/hook. Much more important than most people think! To much and the front of the tow vehicle lifts, to little and the trailer can snake like a B******D! Quote
ashley Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Hi GlosterMB, i use a brian james car trailer and can`t fault it at all, if you have alternative uses for it a plant or sided trailer is the way to go (though it is easier to push on to a car trailer if need be) depending on storage available and of course price. For the weight get a twin axel and if our buying second hand check the axel weights on the data tag and stay away from "home builds" Nose weights can be measured by scales brought from caravan accessory stockist but the nose weight can be adjusted by which position the vehicle is placed on the trailer but do get it right. If you have not done so yet find plenty of room to practice reversing. Cheers Ashley Edited March 17, 2011 by ashley spelling Quote
ACH Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 I couldn't recommend Ifor Williams trailers highly enough, I have a 14ft beaver tail and it's taken everything in it's stride from Minis to Range Rover P38, using it for picking up truck engines and bits of plant. Mine has no sides but I've seen them with sides, the ramps are fairly light and easy to handle, the trailers construction is very strong but light weight. On a flat hard surface you can easily push it about as long as you wind the jockey wheel down and get the weight on the back axle. As for loading, you'll soon work out where your load needs to be, I tend to drive or winch the vehicles on forwards and get the load over the axles as evenly as possible. The only thing I would say, make sure you've got a decent tow hitch, I recommend Dixon Bate adjustable hitch with a ball and pin as it's more versatile. Fit standard height heavy duty rear springs and decent shocks on the Disco. Quote
listerdiesel Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) Purely for interest We show a large Ruston & Hornsby diesel engine, and have got to the point where towing the engine behind our Disco and camping is fine, but creature comforts like showers and decent loos are not always available to exhibitors, even at big shows and events, so we decided to build a new trailer that would be towed by the Disco and carry the engine, but would also take the engine as well. One of the reasons we haven't been on the Forum for 3 months is down to the work in getting the beast ready for a trip to Holland in June. Engine first: It goes about 1.6 tons as pictured, plus the wood blocks and lights, oil, fuel etc etc. The trailer is a 3-axle turntable type of our own design: It is 6.6metres long in the body, the living area has most of the contents of a 2-berth caravan inside. We are just now fitting out the interior with shower, toilet, cooker, fridge, water heater etc etc. Tows well, has fully braked axles X 3, the drawbar hinges up and locks onto a towball high up on the front, out of the way when we are stopped. Peter Edited July 26, 2011 by listerdiesel Quote
Tony B Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 I've seen recently a couple of high bed three axles trailer. Two at rear and an articulated nose like yours. Anyone know if a low loading type is available? I want to find one I can put a WC54 on, tow with the Disco, or a 90 and fit the whole lot on a ferry. Quote
listerdiesel Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 They are freely available on the continent, and I think a company in the UK either imports them or assembles them here. Here's one: http://www.trailertek.com/turntable-trailer/ 3.5 tonnes is the limit in the UK with overrun braking, and 7metre body length if towed by a Disco, longer for something heavier with a higher GTW. This is a typical unit in Holland: Peter Quote
Tony B Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 Yes that's the type. It was being towed by a Transit van. Quote
listerdiesel Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 Stena Line go up to 12metre trailers now, with a 4X4, but not commercials, that is more expensive. If you can get your machine on the back within the 7metre body length, then you're away. The drawbar doesn't count for DoT body measurements but the ferries obviously do include it. Peter Quote
listerdiesel Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 Depending on the bodywork, the WC54 looks to be around 5metres, so I'd guess that you could get that together with 2metres or a bit less for the step frame section. Peter Quote
Tony B Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 It's width and weight are the problem. Your pushing the edge of weight. It may come down to remove spare wheel etc. Quote
listerdiesel Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 You'd need something open as the bodywork and tilt are significant weights. Ours is much more heavily built, and went 1800kg more or less ready to go but without the kitchen and bathroom fittings in place. We are just making up a lighter trolley for the engine as we need to lose 1/4 ton. Which Disco have you got? Peter Quote
listerdiesel Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 You'd be struggling to pull 3.5 tonnes with 111bhp. Ours is a V8 with LPG, around 180bhp, but it knows its got something heavy behind! Peter Quote
Tony B Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 I hope to get a low loader on the job, at least Pompey to London. Quote
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