Rover8FFR Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 This Landi's 12v.Off work t'day, so a little more being done :-). Just refit 'propper' hinges on lft. side, perfect gap allround the door, closes with a little gentle push :shocked: I guess they use the correct wiring colours? If thats the case they should be able to do 24v as the colours / sheathing are the same as 12v, but a higher amperage for the extra volts I would guess?? Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 A S3 Lightweight main harness (bulkhead harness) is the same part number for both 12 volt & 24 volt , there is a different part number depending on if it is for a LHD or RHD vehicle (soon converted IIRC LHD to RHD - first the normal manipulation & then extend two wires only for wiper motor). I would have to double-check on part numbers - for later L'wts '79/'80 to end of production there were a few changes on instrument panel - the harnes may have been modified but not in any big way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 but a higher amperage for the extra volts I would guess?? Eh? If volts go up, amps go down:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Eh? If volts go up, amps go down:D Hey you are the electrics Guru mate! I am just a humble ignorant uneducated architect. :red: Hows the foot / ankle??? Article any closer, talking electrics???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Foot/ankle is still fairly swollen & uncomfortable, but just getting on with things as cautiously as I can. Article? The more comprehensive I try to make it, the longer it takes. But other things take time. Shorland MOT tomorrow & I'm fitting 18mm ply to the floor of the cab in the Pig. I did the rear some years ago, but never got round to the cab. It is quite a complex shape. I cut a template in card & cutting the ply out to match. As you are aware the front sides are not 'square' & trying to align holes for attaching the floor panels, seats & battery boxes is a bit of a challenge as lots of things get in the way. When you see it, no nit-picking that it should be 5/8" thick to be authentic, I can only get 18mm these days:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Regards the loom. Auto Sparks obviously wanted to know the year, this one 79'. Will be intresting to see if it can accomodate fog lights (not fitted) but my 80' one has. If loom has fog light wiring, I will fit as this vechicle may be my only 'car' in the future. On a different note, 54HG12, last night checking chassis before going for undersealing etc. next week found to be quite sad in a few places :cry:. Just hope I can keep it on the road for another year before new chassis required!! and this vehicle up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 (edited) When you see it, no nit-picking that it should be 5/8" thick to be authentic, I can only get 18mm these days:D http://www.tipadel.co.uk/pdf/price_list.pdf I wouldn't dream on Nit-Picking at your handy work. 5/8ths still available with some species mate. Edited May 13, 2011 by Rover8FFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Regards the loom. Auto Sparks obviously wanted to know the year, this one 79'. Will be intresting to see if it can accomodate fog lights (not fitted) but my 80' one has. If loom has fog light wiring, I will fit as this vechicle may be my only 'car' in the future.On a different note, 54HG12, last night checking chassis before going for undersealing etc. next week found to be quite sad in a few places :cry:. Just hope I can keep it on the road for another year before new chassis required!! and this vehicle up and running. ============ Did the loom arrive with a rubber boot behind the connections for the 6-way switch ? Are the wires tagged with screw connectors for the 6-way switch ? regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 ============ Did the loom arrive with a rubber boot behind the connections for the 6-way switch ? Are the wires tagged with screw connectors for the 6-way switch ? regards If I understand 'boot' correct, no. But the old loom did not. Wires for 6-way switch, insulated spade connectors, same as old loom, so will connect straight to switch. All the large bulkhead grommets etc. are fitted in place. Only difference I have noticed so far is the panel warning light bulb holders are for a more 'modern' micro type bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 If I understand 'boot' correct, no. But the old loom did not. Wires for 6-way switch, insulated spade connectors, same as old loom, so will connect straight to switch. All the large bulkhead grommets etc. are fitted in place. Only difference I have noticed so far is the panel warning light bulb holders are for a more 'modern' micro type bulb. ================= By insulated spade connectors - I understand you mean Lucar 1/4" male spades ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 I am sure the connectors on my 6way switch behind the rubber boot are held via a grub machine screw. The male terminal on the switch has a threaded hole from memory. Identical on rover8 even though that is an ignition switched 6way switch. Just come in from garage so will double check in morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 S2A Rover marks & Rover 1 with key-switch & S3 L'wt (keyless) - all had 4BA cheese-heads x 1/4" for securing tags. I have seen L'wt copy harness - good but this one let down , wrong tags & no boot. Leaving you to make short jumper wires to convert or crop & fit tags with your old boot. You could always use a later 6-way switch with Lucar terminals.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 S2A Rover marks & Rover 1 with key-switch & S3 L'wt (keyless) - all had 4BA cheese-heads x 1/4" for securing tags. I have seen L'wt copy harness - good but this one let down , wrong tags & no boot. Leaving you to make short jumper wires to convert or crop & fit tags with your old boot. You could always use a later 6-way switch with Lucar terminals.. FT not sure what a 4BA cheese head is but if it is a tang that looks like a 'T' shape or Tophat then that is what I have. I will pop into garage now and take a peek unless you have an image to hand mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Just went out to the Ltwt and took a pic of that, noticed boot split. Also the boot was missing on my rover8 so I aquired another modern 6way switch with the wire connections from a more modern landrover and they are identical connections, so went straight on. They are with red sheathing in the pics. First pic is LTWT Second Pic is Rover 8 with donar wiring / boot from Defender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 The 4BA cheese heads are the bolts holding the wire terminals to the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 The 4BA cheese heads are the bolts holding the wire terminals to the switch. I see! Thanks sirhc. Enlightened I am....Can see the reference to a roundel of cheese now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 ================= By insulated spade connectors - I understand you mean Lucar 1/4" male spades ? Yep correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 Big day today. Bulkhead being welded/new panels as I type.:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 Job done and all the kit put away. :-) First three pics. showing that the top of the 'well' for the instruments can be carefully cut out and replaced with new metal leaving a tidy job. spot welds were drilled and cut with a hacksaw blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 A few pics of the rebuild and new panels fitted. My thanks to Steve for making a excelent job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevpol Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 looking good mate! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 A day I've been looking forward to. Dropping the engine back on the chassis. Pity I had not thought about having couple cans of oil, filter! Oh well, gives me a week to fit oil cooler etc. before I attempt to run the engine. Question. Any one used/recommend a supplier for a full set set brake pipes? Not sure I want to use copper, would like a rustless pipe though as I dont want to start drilling chassis for more fixing clips than origional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) Had lunch. Been to collect more parts/battery. Engine oil/gearbox oil, total 6Lt, filter, gaskets/seals, set rad.hoses/heater hoses, set fan belts, special nuts and main bulkhead bolts, thermostat. £58.95 096 battery £54.00 Now off to the shed to see if we can get it running. Edited June 25, 2011 by airportable Gramma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz76 Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Been watching the rebuild with interest. Did it run? Looking good so far :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Thanks daz76. At three t'day ready to attempted to start. Electrical fault, no power through the coil. Was going to get all new ignition parts earlier but told there are three options for 79' Landi. 12v. Dash back to the dealer and picked up new coil,points and condensor. All fitted, starter started to play up! Fitted spare starter and correctly wired in through the solenoid this time. Engine turned over couple of times and fired up at exactly 6.52 Appart from no exhaust system it seemed to run very well indeed without and tinkering with the carb. :shocked: Did not run too long as I did not have the water pump running, did not want to risk damage to the alternator not being wired, think allso the thermostat is seized shut as I was unable to get much water into system so air locked. Tryed to fit new thermostat earlier but looks like the three bolts are well seized into the head (only 7/16") Not looking forward to attempting to remove. All in all a very pleasing day, think it's the first time it as run in twelve or so years. Cost of coil etc. £16.80 Pic. or two later when I've had tea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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