Jump to content

FV434 generator warning light problem?


Recommended Posts

Hi,

when i got it delivered, we had to jumpstart it, we got it going and removed the cable, we then lowered the revs just until the warning light went on, then it cut out, suspecting the batteries were well dead we changed them over to a couple of car batteries. We then jumpstarted it again as these batteries were off our van, after that we removed the cable again and proceeded to lower the revs again just until the light came on, this was about 1500 rpm, very high if you want to remove it off the low loader backwards. after running it for a bit we noticed that the relays were clicking in coincidence with the light, revs still at 1500 rpm.

 

Is it normal to keep having the light come on, what does the light exactly mean, that the revs are too low to maintain a charge?

 

Many thanks

Harley

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you mean the warning light on the driver's panel, the one on my 432 is never on once the engine is running, regardless of rpm. It's supposed to extinguish once the generators reach charging voltage and that should be at any engine speed over 600rpm. I suspect you've either got very flat batteries or a rectifier/control box problem - is the ammeter showing any charge? If you've got a voltmeter, check the voltage across the batteries with the the engine running, it should be 28.5V +/- 0.5V.

 

Andy

Edited by andym
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then having cleared one of the 'usual suspects'. Dirty or loose connections? And of course, all the earths. Have you a decent battery tester, if not worth taking the old ones out and getting them checked. Battries don't like sitting about

Edited by Tony B
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

well ill have a look when i get down there, but is it common for the alternators to fail?

 

I think the alternators themselves are pretty bomb-proof, it's the gubbins around them that causes occasional problems. Check the voltage as suggested above to see what's happening. It's worth unmating and re-mating the connectors on the control boxes to the right of the driver's seat (with engine stopped and master switch off!) in case it's just grot in the connectors.

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Paul -

 

I think my previous reply to this vanished in the ether ...

 

Are you saying it was OK before you changed the pack? If so, it sounds like the new pack has a duff alternator or the rectifier stack in the oil tank is shot. What voltage have you got across the batteries when the engine is running?

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...