Giles Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I do like the idea of going to the school prom with it - will be most impressive and always useful to have a deadline to work to. I was trying to persuade my son and his g/f to go to this year's prom in a 2 seater sofa screwed onto a pallet on the forks of my Eager Beaver. She did not want to play:cry: I will need to persuade my daughter to go to her's next year on that particular method of transport then:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 As always, them deadlines come up far too soon!!! Been doing all sorts these past few weeks, mainly scraping, painting, scrubbing, removing pipes, wiring, clips and gawd knows what else, my sheds at home are filling up with stuff! Anyway, have been busy tidying up my speedo and rev counter cables ( in a different thread), and various cables and conduits - temp sender conduit, interconnecting box to switch board cable, generator panel to distributor box leads. Stripping, cleaning, a bit of heatshrink here and there, and making some new identification tags. Temp sender conduit, blue heatshrink covers over the worn braided sheathing. Old tags are unreadable, new ones made from yellow heatshrink, written on with permanent marker, look ok when shrunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Sprucing up manky wiring conduit is a rewarding job, certainly worth doing. Ignition junction box is next on the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Looking good, and coming on nicely, a credit to your engineering skills. P.S. Nice choice of beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Unipren wiring sure does attract a lot of muck over time, these wires should be coloured, the thinner one 12A, was originally yellow, and the larger 50A should be blue. The yellow one I can do something about as I have a small amount on a reel, but the 50A blue, so far have not found any. To fit some new wiring is a simple matter of undoing the plug, the gen panel helps to hold the plug while the locking ring is loosened off. The wires are merely soldered to the back of the plug socket. Quite easy really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 One of the next jobs is to measure up the old starter and battery cables and make some new ones with some spanking new plgs and cable I have aquired. These are made from Unipren 135, I managed to get various lengths some from a stall at the Bedfordshire steam rally the other week ( I have no idea what they were originally manufactured for, maybe some type of radio setup). First up is the old cables, again this size Unipren is originally blue, but has turned black over the course of 50+ years. New starter lead sockets were purchased from The x mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Don'tknow if you have noticed, but there is another locking ring in the bottom of the plug that releases the bakerlite bit allowing the terminals to be removed altogether. makes soldering easier. I scoured the country for 50A cable in blue for my Militant wiring, but had to settle for a light green. I have got a few yards left if it is any good to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 Hi Rob, I did notice the other lock ring, but not till after I had done the soldering! Ah well, at least being screwed into the gen panel stopped it from moving around. PM sent regards wiring. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Hi Simon, Got the PM, but as I am a bit thick with computers I can't work out how to do a reply with a photo, so I've had to put it on here instead. This is what it looks like. There's about 5 metres left on the roll, and it's only gathering dust in the shed now the Militants wiring has been sorted. Free to good home if you'll pay the postage. You'll need to PM me an address Regards Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 A bit more cutting and welding this week, cab rail and windscreen centre pillar, both rather rusted. Drivers side view of the cab rail above, passenger side below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Windscreen centre pillar, well rusty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 New bits glued in. Good and strong again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Not really got much to report, as been too cold to do things. Though did manage on the not quite so cold days to get the air compressor and drive case stripped of paint. Also took the drive unit to bits for cleaning. Hopefully if weather good this week, I will try to slap some paint on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrat Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Looking good! What bit of the drivetrain is that? I didn't spend long enough looking at mine to figure things out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrat Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Oh, hang on... Is that the insane drivebox for the hydraulic pump? Confused :nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Yup bang on, one coconut on its way. Originally only took it off to make painting the lower bits of the engine easier. The whole lump is a bit of a pig to remove with the wing in place. They had been painted once but that was in the early days about 15 odd years ago, so I thought they needed redoing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrat Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I bet it weighs a ton as well? I was looking at that very part on my truck yesterday, what an amazingly complicated way to bolt on the steering pump, have you figured out the reasoning behind it? Is it particularly high pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Well I certainly wouldn't want to lug them far! I think bonnet line is the reasoning behind the design, I don't think it's that bad, I have seen worse! As the pumps were originally built for aircraft use, they should be quite robust. Pressure wise they should be good for 4000 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 I did manage to get a small amount of painting done while the sun poked out for a brief time, just odds n sods. Accumulator air valve caps,trailer brake valve handle, a few pipes and some bulkhead parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Been busy rebuilding the accumulators at long last. New seals arrived last week, another big job crossed off my list ( and empty pockets). The old seals had gone very hard and the only way I could get them off was to cut them with a knife. Pistons ready for the op.. Pistons ready for new seals. Got them on, blooming tight fit!!! Whole set done, pistons and end caps. Piston going in, plenty of oil to help it, still needed a bit of a tap. Job done, all back together, just need big vice and stilsons to nip up the caps, and a good dollop of paint too. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrat Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Looks very nice!! I noticed one of my power steering pipes is rusted and leaking badly, I'm guessing they were steel originally. Any thoughts on replacement? Is copper suitable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 If it's in the high pressure part of the system, don't use copper. Bundy tubing was originally used, available from all good hydraulic specialists. I had a couple on mine that leaked, so I whipped them off, cut off the bad part and had a new piece made up. Copper pipe is used for some of the system, but only in the non pressurised part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrat Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) If it's in the high pressure part of the system, don't use copper. Bundy tubing was originally used, available from all good hydraulic specialists. I had a couple on mine that leaked, so I whipped them off, cut off the bad part and had a new piece made up. Copper pipe is used for some of the system, but only in the non pressurised part. Thankfully I've got a good local hydraulic specialist so I'll go in and see them, are they fitted with olive's or a flared end? I'm guessing they could let me away with some lengths of pipe for me to bend to shape, then do the ends for me? Oh, and where is the steering fluid reservoir? :blush: Actually, thinking about it is Kunifer (Cupro-Nickel) pipe not suitable? I think I remember reading it was a good replacement these steel pipes... I've used it loads of times on car brakes. Edited March 13, 2012 by madrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 They are a flared end, and looking in the book, 3/8" od bundylin seems to be the common size. Use a pipe bender to get the curves, coz it'll kink quite easily. Use the original nuts too if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 I have finally managed to get out and make use of the sun, instead of being in bed when it shines, to get a few bits topcoated. My sheds are getting full of bits that are undercoated just waiting for some good warm days so I can get them finished off. Hoping to clear a bit more of the backlog today, sun permitting of course! Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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