Adrian Barrell Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Hi Mike, You should have no trouble in retaining the shape after welding if you use a flat, rather than bevelled buffing pad, ( correct name flap disc ). Tony. I have no trouble using either..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Thanks gents, Looks like I'd better try welding then. I'll try on one of the poorer, original, ones and see how it goes. I wonder how critical it is to have a perfect contour on something swept by a thick felt seal anyway? Since the purpose is to prevent the oil/grease from leaking out I suppose it is most important that the seal contacts the whole surface and there are no sharp edges. It shouldn't really matter if it's not 'perfectly' spherical. I'll make a ply template for the shape so I can keep an eye on the profile. I'll try over the weekend and report back. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 For the sake of completeness in this thread, I have also had various comments via PM. One suggestion was to use the best swivels as they are and use Land Rover 'one-shot' grease. Apart from the cost of about 5 gallons of this grease can anyone comment on its suitability? - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Rather than welding how about brazing them after all they are going to get painted, have see people do this to various bits on old motorbikes, also easier to sand down to a good contour, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) After a long period of apparent inactivity during which we have built a house and popped a sprog, I have now returned to the Autocar... Engine, gearbox, transfer box and winch are out along with all of the front crossmembers and rear crossmembers: The shortened rear chassis has been cut: Tonight I tacked on one of the replacement rail sections obtained from a scrap pontoon tractor chassis in Beke's yard: The chassis is worse that I had thought and there will be a number of sections to replace. I have decided to re-fit the front winch even though it is not truly original to this model of truck. The van trucks were not built with winches but my truck has a genuine pontoon tractor winch fitted, with all the correct linkages, PTO and shafts. My reason for re-installing it is that it is likely that only the army would have had access to the parts to carry out the conversion, which has been completed to a high standard. I therefore think it is likely that this winch has been on the truck for a very long time and so it should stay there. It would be a very simple job if any future owner wanted to remove it. - MG Edited December 30, 2011 by TooTallMike Photo links fail... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joris Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Amazing that you find time to undertake such a project! Keep up the good work and us informed of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 (edited) Manual is in a bag and will be headed your way when I can get it in an envelope and Postman Pat goes back to work. I can see the logic behing keeping the winch, but was it a plain van body or a towed one? Don't think I've seen an image of either? Gordon Edited January 1, 2012 by Gordon_M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Today the rear chassis extension was completed and the joins fully welded. Both chassis lower flanges are badly rusted just forward of the front of the cab where the rain has been running down and standing for 25+ years. The first of these areas has been cut out and replaced with leftovers from the rear extension pieces. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Manual is in a bag and will be headed your way when I can get it in an envelope and Postman Pat goes back to work. I can see the logic behing keeping the winch, but was it a plain van body or a towed one? Don't think I've seen an image of either? Gordon Hi Gordon, I'll look forward to receiving the manual, thanks. The truck should look like this: Two similar trucks operated together; one containing the radar equipment, the other housing a generator. Mine was the generator wagon. There is a matching trailer that would have gone behind it. Apparently mine still had its trailer until the 70's, but they were split up and the trailer must have gone to the great car park in the sky. :cry: - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks Mike. I was looking at he chassis length on yours and thinking it was probably a van body rather than a tractor, now I see. I'm sure a winch on the front will do that no harm at all. I suppose it was just an army rebuild where a trashed pontoon tractor chassis lost its' winch and you gained one? Now in the envelope but waiting till Post Office opens. I don't really want to post it till I can get it officially weighed and stamped as I don't want it going adrift or ending up with insufficient postage. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joris Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Two pics to keep you motivated :angel: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joris Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 And another one: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Well looky what found me following my advert on Milweb for a donor engine. A NOS Federal-spec Hercules RXC! From the look of it, it hasn't even been run! We'll have the heads off over the weekend for a look inside but fingers crossed this can go straight in after a tosh of paint and fitting a few bits and bobs. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Fantastic Mike, thats a great result. Does it have a rebuild plate on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Fantastic Mike, thats a great result. Does it have a rebuild plate on it? Nope! It was believed to have been an ex-Italian army rebuild but there are no indications on the unit that it's anything other than NOS. Happy days - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Mike; I have all the engine decals. (Oil, air, crankcase breather breather) Let me know if you need them. Nice find. John Gott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Mike;I have all the engine decals. (Oil, air, crankcase breather breather) Let me know if you need them. Nice find. John Gott Thank you John, I'll be in touch once I know which ones I need. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Inside the engine is just as good as outside and with a little oil down the bores it was persuaded to rotate easily. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Ross (Rosco) kindly spent the day cleaning rust off parts with an angle grinder wire brush and the blasting cabinet. Among other things he cleaned up the crossmember from the donor chassis that is going to serve as the new crossmember behind the rear axle, that supports the spare wheel under the chassis. This has now been painted ready for fitting tomorrow. He also started stripping the old dash of its smashed gauges. Meanwhile I welded up some more corrosion in the chassis rails and then fitted one of the newly-manufactured crossmembers and its reinforcing plates which go just behind the rear axle. The old ones were rotten beyond repair. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Good to know you're keeping Ross busy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markheliops Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Looking good Mike. It must be nice to spend some time on your own vehicles for a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I hope those are genuine UNF bolts you are using and not metric rubbish. I will be taking notes you know! Also found that you'd left the dust extractor (vacuum cleaner) for the blast cabinet, I'll come by and drop it off soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 would the crossmember originaly have been rivettet to the frame, and is there any strength differance in using bolts instead of rivets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosco Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yes Chris, Mike has kept me quite busy this weekend. Finished stripping the dash out today and fitted the above crossmember. Vince, None of that metric rubbish here I will have you know (Please make a note in your note book) Yes I found Mikes best hoover for that blasting cabinet working fine now. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 would the crossmember originaly have been rivettet to the frame, and is there any strength differance in using bolts instead of rivets? Hi Neils, The entire chassis frame was originally bolted together so in theory you could dismantle the whole thing to its component parts. I considered this but it was not really necessary. - MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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