Rick W Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 The Bren for the Champ has been residing in the garage over winter and has developed some light surface rust. Whats the best way of removing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 If very light, some very fine wire wool. Then some cold bluing compound from local gun shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 steveo578 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 The approved method is light oil and some soft wood (pine) wire wool will take the parkerisation(blackened surface) off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 woa2 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I've cleaned up some surface rust on some bayonets with a soft brass brush made for suede shoe cleaning. Much softer than wire wool or a wire brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ferretfixer Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 The approved method is light oil and some soft wood (pine) wire wool will take the parkerisation(blackened surface) off. The above is correct. As an Armouer with many years expierience in small Arms & Ordanance. Oil & wire wool I use all the time for rust removal generally. In my expirience, it depends on how much rust is present. If it is light, speckled rust. The FINE grade wirewool & oil is fine. You do not need to rub hard! If the rust is heavy, no matter what you do the protective finish be it blued or Parkerised. Will be damaged or stained at the least. Military small arms protective coating is Zinc chromate (Parkerising) with a black low sheen finish paint. This generally is sprayed on paint called 'Suncorite'. It was developed for radiators by Henkle chemicles Ltd. (It is heat resistant) That will give you the Classic 'Enfield Finnish'! Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 steveo578 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 ferretfixer Military small arms protective coating is Zinc chromate (Parkerising) with a black low sheen finish paint. This generally is sprayed on paint called 'Suncorite'. It was developed for radiators by Henkle chemicles Ltd. (It is heat resistant) Is this paint sprayable with none speciallised equipment and would it require baking? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Rick W Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Thanks all. Thats my Sunday afternoon taken care of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Ok so what would you recommend for live firarms? The finish can get battered at times. Cold bluing never seems to work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ferretfixer Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Is this paint sprayable with none speciallised equipment and would it require baking? Steve Yes, it is sprayable. I have actually witnessed it done at Worshops. (had a load of my Motorclcle parts done at the same time!) It is a lovely smooth finnish with a satin sheen, then oil dipped & left to drain off. It is baked in an oven also to harden the protective finnish & make it more durable. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ferretfixer Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Ok so what would you recommend for live firarms? The finish can get battered at times. Cold bluing never seems to work properly. Tony, are you refering to Civvilian or Military Firearms? Military is as I have discribed. We used to patch paint with suncorite when the edges got knocked or chipped here & there. Civvy weapons tend to be comercial blued. The quick fix stuff in a bottle or tub, just will NOT last! It is usefull for blueing small componants like screws Etc. The handling from usage will wear the finnish off quickly on parts used a lot. Like safety catches, bolt handles Etc. The best remedy is to Re-Blue. This takes a lot of time in the preparartion though. You have to polish everything to a bright steel finnish. & ensure that all strokes from fine emery go in the same direction. ALSO ensureing you dont' round off any square edges corners Etc! When all is like silver, it must be cleaned with a degreaser so that not even a human thumb print is present! THIS IS IMPORTANT! Because, human skin has acid deposits on it to protect it. This WILL transfer to metal & rust usually in the form of your fingerprint! (To prevent this, wear gloves when handling, OR, Oil with a light surface coat & leave it after you have finished using it) The weapon is then put in a Bluing tank & boiled in the solution for a few hours, removed & left to dry overnight. When you see it the next day, it will be COVERED in rust! When this rust is removed, the lovely blued surface will be seen then. This work is best left to specialists, such as REAL Gunsmiths. The price paid will refelect the time taken in labour to polish the gun down. I have in the past, 'struck off' (Polish the finnish to a bright sheen) & taken the weapon to a Tool firm that blues it's own tools. You would have to get to know someone to do this as you wouldnt want to leave the gun with a person who didnt have a Licence! The results from the tool blueing, matched those from a gunsmith! Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 griff66 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 did read somewhere that the blueing technique used 150 years has been lost , think charcoal was used in some way ferret fixxer might know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Thanks Mike. My favourites are ex military a Mossberg 42a built by the US company Mossberg speciffically for British Army training. Marked for lend lease US property. And Lee Enfeild Number 2 rifle. This is the same as Lee Enfeild SMLE Number 1 rifle, but in .22 rimfire for cadets and training. Not a .22 conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ferretfixer Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Thanks Mike. My favourites are ex military a Mossberg 42a built by the US company Mossberg speciffically for British Army training. Marked for lend lease US property. And Lee Enfield Number 2 rifle. This is the same as Lee Enfeild SMLE Number 1 rifle, but in .22 rimfire for cadets and training. Not a .22 conversion. Tony, The Mossberg would have been Parkerised & spayed as discribed by me previously. (After being recieved forom the factory originaly. It's first overhaul /major repair would have had the Parkerising method done because the Army does not have the facilities to do traditional bluing!) The No:2 would have been done to the traditional Blueing method in it's day. (They never had Parkerising then). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ferretfixer Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 did read somewhere that the blueing technique used 150 years has been lost , think charcoal was used in some way ferret fixxer might know. Im not familar with the charcoal method, I have to confess! But bluing has been going on from the approx the introduction of the Martini-Henry. Weapon BROWNING was the norm from approx the intro of earlier Percussion times. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Thanks for info> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ferretfixer Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Thanks for info> Glad to help. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Rick W
The Bren for the Champ has been residing in the garage over winter and has developed some light surface rust. Whats the best way of removing it?
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