Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So far Ive ordered 2 1968 DPM items from overseas thinking that they would be the right size. I read about how to translate the nato numbers etc, but bloodly hell these things are big. I could get 2 of me in the pants. The jackets oversize too.

Are they made oversize to begin with? I'm being killed with international postage just to find out these things dont fit me. Just want to look like a proper UK ferret driver in my ferret :-D

 

Chris

Ferret 00 EC 55

Posted

Chris,

Ignore the Nato size and use the other one on the label. Trousers should have Leg/Waist/Seat and these numbers are in centimetres, so you can measure yourself and go from there.

Chris

Posted

The nato size seems to fit a "range" of sizes and not really just a stock size like when you're buying jeans. Guess I need to look for the top of the range size as opposed to the bottom of the size if that makes any sense.

Posted

This dealer has some 68 pattern jackets for sale at the moment.

 

http://collectables.shop.ebay.co.uk/Militaria-/13956/i.html?_catref=1&_fln=1&_ipg=25&_ssn=hogspear&_trksid=p3911.c0.m282

 

The labels in 1968 probably still show a British system of sizing rather than NATO.

 

Presumably you are trying to match a particular period with this pattern of jacket as they were not manufactured for that long. Having said this I was issued one in 1980 when I joined 266 OP Battery in Bristol. DPM clothing was in short supply at that time in the TA and it had bailer twine as the tie cord at the waist.

Posted (edited)

The old army sizing did not have Leg/seat/waist... this came in with the 90 pattern gear.. older stuff was a approx size grading, Ie 1-2-3-4 not made to order.. so Its guess work untill you know.. how big do you need a have a few 68's for sale...

 

Period for a Ferret, Ie 1970-85ish would be 68 or the early 80's jacket and lightweights(green trousers) putties and some nice comfortable DMS boots.. rare to see 68 trousers at all really... a wooly and a ironed Shirt... KF shirt if your brave...

 

and no tram lines in your lightweights!!! I was trained in 95 jacket! and lightweights! that was in 2000! We had 95 trousers(ripstop! why we had those i dont know) but parade was lightweights

Edited by paul connor
Posted
This dealer has some 68 pattern jackets for sale at the moment.

 

http://collectables.shop.ebay.co.uk/Militaria-/13956/i.html?_catref=1&_fln=1&_ipg=25&_ssn=hogspear&_trksid=p3911.c0.m282

 

The labels in 1968 probably still show a British system of sizing rather than NATO.

 

Presumably you are trying to match a particular period with this pattern of jacket as they were not manufactured for that long. Having said this I was issued one in 1980 when I joined 266 OP Battery in Bristol. DPM clothing was in short supply at that time in the TA and it had bailer twine as the tie cord at the waist.

266 op battery, that was my old mob back in 1986/7 ish

Posted

I walked out of their Recruit Course and ended up joining another unit 3 years later and passing without any problems.

 

At the time the unit was still equipped with 25 Pounders and I had the opportunity to fire one on the ranges.

 

I also did a miss-ram one day which made me very popular as they were trying to fire off all the remaining ammo before the range closed. We had to get the rod out and push the round out from the muzzle end. This was after we tried to shake the round lose by banging the trail up and down.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

If it's any help I was once told that the sizes for the old type of DPM (1968 pattern?) run from size 1 to size 9.

 

For the smock

 

Size 1 is short height, slim chest

 

Size 2 is short height, medium chest

 

Size 3 is short height, large chest

 

Size 4-6 are medium height for small, medium & large chest

 

Size 7-9 are tall height for small, medium & large chest

 

 

 

 

Trousers work the same way, Sizes 1-3 are a short leg with small, medium and large waist/seat with Sizes 4-6 for medium leg and Sizes 7-9 are for long legs

 

I don't know the actual size in feet/inches or centimetres but I used to be about a 170/98 in the new sizes and a Size 1 in the old. A few years later I was a Size 180/104 and found the old Size 1 jacket was a bit snug so I changed it for a Size 4.

 

 

Hope this helps.

Posted
Better baggy than to tight. Allow for three wooly pullys and artic underwear for the British weather. NATO sizes, one size fits no one.:-D

 

We used to say, 'If it fitted you straight off the shelf, you were deformed!' :-D

Posted

So far all the pants Ive gotten I either need to gain alot or lose weight to fit. Going broke shipping from overseas. :mad:

Posted
We used to say, 'If it fitted you straight off the shelf, you were deformed!' :-D

 

the Navy's answer was 'You'll grow into or 'it'll shrink to fit'. :-D Mind you when you are 15 years old green as grass stripping off in front of femlae stores staff, who can't stop laughing, in an unheated shed in January, you'd stick anything on!

Posted
Period for a Ferret, Ie 1970-85ish would be 68 or the early 80's jacket and lightweights(green trousers) putties and some nice comfortable DMS boots.. rare to see 68 trousers at all really... a wooly and a ironed Shirt... KF shirt if your brave...

 

and no tram lines in your lightweights!!! I was trained in 95 jacket! and lightweights! that was in 2000! We had 95 trousers(ripstop! why we had those i dont know) but parade was lightweights

 

If you want to look cavalry (or RTR), 1970s.

 

Lightweights. Tailored tight enough not to look baggy and tailored well (ie strong seams because you'll be climbing on and off your Ferret and correctly fitting into the crotch. Oh what a joy to have a very good-looking Hungarian seamstress working for QM of 15/19H who took her tailoring VERY seriously.) Never combat trousers. Prior to the 1985 release, combat trousers had a draggy arrse somewhere round the knees even when wearing braces and waistline someone near the nipples. Once you have paid good money to get your cheap Lightweights tailored, spend a little more to have the creases sewn in (seamstress simply runs the sewing machine down the existing creases - stopping at the trousers or it would cut them in half). It is then possible to iron your lightweights down the main seams and the result is immaculate.

 

Beret shaped "tanky"-style, aka 2-way stretch. The book says that the beret band is level all round and one inch above the eyebrows, with the badge central over the left eye; all the material pulled across over the right ear. Tanky-style says beret band resting on the eyebrows, badge central and the material pulled as evenly as possible to both sides (this is very difficult unless you cut out the beret's lining). Note that unless you have a much bigger beret than you'd normally need, the back of the beret band will go over the crown rather than round the back. It needs to be extremely well-shaped because if the wind gets behind it, it will lift your beret off. Never comes off when you are mounted and wearing a headset ...

 

Don't use a Kangol issue beret. Look for a Compton-Webb. Alternatively buy a beret from Victor's of Aldershot (if he is still going). Significantly too much material in a Kangol and badly-cut. FAR better cut in a Compton-Webb. Victor's is the Rolls Royce, but was a private purchase, not for issue.

 

Never wear a KF shirt. See if you can get an aertex OG shirt (not the same as the later GS shirt). No 2 dress shirt is okay. Must have pockets and epaulettes to be worn on top. These were not issued until about 1980, but NAAFI sold very good imitations (may have been Tootal) which were tolerated by the hierarchy.

 

Depending on your RAC regiment, ALWAYS wear the correct scarf (until about 1980) or polo-neck (thereafter).

 

Never wear webbing on the vehicle. Sling it in the bottom somewhere unless you find somewhere really accessible and suitable to park it (CVR(T) turret crews always slung their webbing over their respective hatches.)

 

May - September ("shirtsleeve order") or representing somewhere warmer than Europe, combat jacket and scarf only up top, sleeves rolled up neatly.

 

Most of all, look smart. Baggy is not cavalry. Cavalry do it with flair and elan.

  • 10 months later...
Posted (edited)
Im in the US so its extra $$.

The pants are size 8 8595/8595

the jacket is a size 9 8090/1020

-C

 

The size 8 and 9 wewre the largest two sizes made. With the jacket 8090 means for height 180 to 190cm with a 1020 or 100 to 120 cm chest. Size 1 2 and 3 (6070) was for some one 160 to 170 cm tall. Size 4, 5 and 6 (7080) was for 170 to 180 cm tall. Each of the heigh ranges had three chest sizes, usually 8595 for 85 to 95cm chest, 9505 for 95 to 105cm chest and 0515 for 105 to 115cm chest. I have no idea how the trouser sizes work, except that sizes 1 to 3 were for a 29 inside leg, 4, 5 and 6 were for a 32 inside leg and 7, 8 and 9 were for seriously tall blokes who inhabited the regions where the air is thinner.

Most servicemen find that when they try their old kit on again after 5 years out of the mob, their old uniforms have mysteriously shrunk whilst in the cupboard.........

Edited by jonclark
Posted

Most servicemen find that when they try their old kit on again after 5 years out of the mob, their old uniforms have mysteriously shrunk whilst in the cupboard.........

Thats right I dos get alot smaller must be the civy air!

Al

Posted
Thats right I dos get alot smaller must be the civy air!

Al

 

Its the lack of discipline that makes them shrink I think............

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...