Tony B Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Nothing may be stupid about it! Showing off in the snow the axale breather has punched a neat 1 inch square hole in the timing cover of the Range Rover!:argh: Can anyone recommend a reapir paste or other technique for an alloy cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Marmite!! Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 (edited) Chemical Metal... http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10151&storeId=10001&partNumber=209882&langId=-1&cm_mmc=Googlebase-_-Body+Repair%2FTapes+%26+Glues-_-Na-_-Plastic+Padding+Chemical+Metal+560ml&source=shopping&%24%24tid=FpxkCYbYwDVwPVJiM8Hq3NqVXjm5Jt7X23vPM6GDmV_5SQcLdNgQcqmN0atGBY_q Edited December 19, 2009 by Marmite!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 griff66 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 try locktite metalset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 griff66 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 try locktite metalset. can be drilled tapped etc when cured , rs components stock it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 phil munga Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 must have got into a strange position for the axle breater to come into contact with the engine timing cover ,,,,,,,, is it one with air suspension ? this repair type material can be used on cylinder heads can be machined to fit valve seats Belzona 111 ? 1111 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted December 20, 2009 Author Share Posted December 20, 2009 The vehicle is a conversion. Range Rover with 2.8 Isuzui. I've owned her for years with no problem. It was showing off speding up a rough track that was slippery and snow covered. Morale: If you can't see the ground, engage brain before right foot. Thanks for the advice lads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 LoggyDriver Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 As mentioned, chemical metal and buy some wire gauze for bodywork. Drill some small holes around the edge so that the chemical metal goes through in order to make it stick better. Use some thin wire to keep the gauze in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Johnny Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Or get it welded up. I've used aluminium MIG welding for filling holes in non structural parts. The initial weld won't be pretty, but it cleans up very easily and you can't usually see the join. TIG would be even better and would leave a cleaner and stronger weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted December 20, 2009 Author Share Posted December 20, 2009 A look in daylight, shows I was an idiot not a **** idiot. I've knocked a hole in the flat part of the sump, but unfortunatley alloy. The idea is to strip it off and clean up then look at options. At the moment -7' is s eriously stopping play. The main thing is will any of the chemical metals stand imersion in hot engine oil? TIG would be the best answer but its quite a big hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Marmite!! Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 The main thing is will any of the chemical metals stand imersion in hot engine oil? Plastic Padding Chemical Metal Resistant to temperatures up to +160°C Allows machining including tapping threads after 20 minutes Resistant to water, salt water, oil, fuel, and to most weak acids and chemicals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted December 20, 2009 Author Share Posted December 20, 2009 Thanks guys, I'll keep you updated the info might be useful for someone else.:iloveyou: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 rbrtcrowther Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Errr...... If the hole is on a flat part of the sump can you not just blot a patch over it. An old flor plate from a landy is a good source of ally for a patch , you could even fashion a gasket too only you will have to remove the sump to hold the nuts inside:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 R Cubed Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Errr...... If the hole is on a flat part of the sump can you not just blot a patch over it. An old flor plate from a landy is a good source of ally for a patch , you could even fashion a gasket too only you will have to remove the sump to hold the nuts inside:) How about as above but use self tapping screws and locktite with a gasket will keep the oil in and the muck out for the time being. Why not use some of those Luminweld rods which have been discussed on here before, sounds a good time to give them a try to see what they are like.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Glynn Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 i would go for tig try a local engineering firm probably cheaper than you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 The first thing is a tempoary patch to get her somewhere warm to get the sump off. Going to try som Quick steel tomorow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 I have now applied a patch to the sump. Weapon of choice was Quick steel. This is a two coloured paste like a swiss roll. You break off a chunk and then roll in your hands until it is an even colour and starts to feel slightly warm. Reason for chossing this stuff is that it is self curing, and as it will set under water isn't temprature sensitive. First clean area well then roughen with coarse emery. I cut a piece of Aluminium mesh about 1/2 inch border round the size of the hole. I put a layer of paste about the same depth as the depth of the hole on it then pressed it onto the hole. Pulled it back down to check the paste had formed the right shape for the hole, it had, then reapplied working out from the centre to spread the paste and fix it to the case. After that I mixed the rest of the paste and spread it over the mesh out onto the area of the case to form a complete seal. The reason for doing it today is that I have a lot on over the next couple of days so won't be able to get back and refill with oil and try it out till Saturday at the earliest. That means the paste has plenty of time to cure. Will let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 rambo1969 Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 I used quicksteel on my cracked diff pan, worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Saturday afternoon. Touch wood the Quicksteel has done trhe job. Fresh oil, a quick sacrifices to the Gremlin's and the old girl is running fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Tony B
Nothing may be stupid about it! Showing off in the snow the axale breather has punched a neat 1 inch square hole in the timing cover of the Range Rover!:argh: Can anyone recommend a reapir paste or other technique for an alloy cover?
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