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Easy alluminium welding, or snake oil?


gritineye

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I can't get the first video to play. But it seems to be Technoweld, I have used Lumiweld with some success in joining the splits in the aluminium roof of a horsebox. I was pleased with the result.

 

There is also Alutight & up until recently had regarded them all as the same. At very big shows you see these being demonstrated. I just happened to see the Swedish chap demonstrating Alutight, it all looked very impressive. But I queried his technique as he cleaned the surface by scratching with an ordinary screwdriver.

 

With Lumiweld you must not use steel, you have to use a special stainless steel brush or rod to prepare the surface. He said techniques that require this preparation are akin to brazing. Whereas the Alutight acts as a catalyst to allow the aluminium you are joining to homogenise with the welding wire.

 

This means that less of the wire is needed to make a union between the bits you are joining. Any excess aluminium from these bits can be scavanged & used to initiate or add to another joint.

 

I watched several demonstrations & it was very impressive. I noticed throughout the GDSF on several occasions people who had bought the material on a regular basis come & express their satisfaction at it's properties.

 

AFAIK the sole seller in the UK is this chap who comes over from Sweden who uses it in industry. It can be bought from Sweden at £40 per metre, but of course you get it cheaper at a show for half that.

 

It convinced me & I'm looking at my 1 metre of it in front of me now, although I still have some of the Lumiweld left.

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Thanks Clive, the first video should work now and it is indeed Technoweld, there are other types around but this video seemed the most informative.

 

I was thinking of the problems with the Scammell gear change gate breaking off at the alloy casting, I have a spare that has been repaired by welding but because of the shape there is little penetration and it cannot be welded from inside. I thought this might penetrate the cracks and do a better job.

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Ok GE, the first one plays now. Bit fiddley with the SS brush & SS poking wire. I think our Swedish friend should put his demo on youtube. It would show how the bits to be joined, melt & fuse into each other rather than just part of a soldered joint.

 

Can't quite visualise your gear change gate. But I will be using my metre of Alutight for repairs of significance. I might just use the odd bits of the Lumiweld on non-critical things just to use it up.

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I've used Alutight to repair a thin, zinc cast housing for on a VERY cheap generator. The housing was broken into three pieces and had a big crack running through the biggest part. Apart from the difficulty of jigging the pieces to hold them in the right place to start with the job was as easy as soft soldering and hasn't failed yet. It gets my vote as useful stuff to have around.:)

 

Having said that, if I had anything of higher value (like a piece of Scammell gearbox?) I would probably take it to someone who was experienced at such repairs - rather than risk ending up with an abstract sculpture that weighed exactly the same as the work-piece but with far lower value.:-(

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I would probably take it to someone who was experienced at such repairs - rather than risk ending up with an abstract sculpture that weighed exactly the same as the work-piece but with far lower value.:-(

 

:-D :-D

 

This is the professional repair all round the turret at the top of the part in question, looks OK but not much penetration with gaps inside, hence my reinforcing to hold the gear change gate above, (redish colored bits of steel), I have been given another casting repaired to a slightly lower standard which I thought I might improve by filling the gaps inside and then weld on some strengthening webs/gussets. this would be a spare and not so much a critical job, just an experiment for winter evenings to come.

DSCF5149.jpg

DSCF5150.jpg

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I've been using Technoweld for years for repairing model aircraft engine crankcases, making exhausts, landing gear parts etc. Great stuff and I've even built up missing crankcase parts using this followed by machining, drilling, filing and tapping to suit afterwards.

 

You do need to be careful not to get the workpiece too hot!

 

Steve

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