gritineye

Just like on a 101 the flange nut comes slightly loose with wear, and tightening it will help for a while, with the prop off it is possible to feel some movement by grabbing it and turning back and forth, the movement may only be very slight but it maybe gets a lot worse when it heats up. Simple job for a Scammell man of your caliber......I got the 50 ml size loctite and used most of it, the rest came in useful for other things as well, I would certainly recommend using it on the hub taper keys.

Glad you enjoyed it Robert................. pardon? If you propshaft is as new, then the grumble is almost certainly worn splines on the gearbox output shaft, when it gets worse you get the top gear banshee hammer rattle, take it off clean with brake cleaner smear some Loctite 660 on it and refit, leave it for a few days and test. http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93755_Loctite_660_Quick_Metal_Retaining_Compound.pdf

NFU will add non road going vehicles (show only cover) to an existing historic vehicle policy given an accurate description, what you have to watch is that if your project is on SORN then issuing insurance using the registration number may well confuse DVLA and could possibly cause you problems. Explain this to your insurer and they should issue their own identity number for it, so nothing shows up in the DVLA system.

Well done Rob, got there at last..:thumbsup:

The gauze pickup pipe filter bolted to the tank access cover caused problems and was often deleted in service, so if yours is still in place you can just leave it off. love the barby trick..

PM sent

QUOTE=rbrtcrowther;262448]You know the air ram on the steering system on the explorer......you know the one under the cab with the cracked shredded remains of a rubber gaiter dangling along the chrome rod, Well a trip to the charity shop turned up a pair of black leather trousers. The leg of which makes a perfect gaiter for said steering ram and keeps all the crap of the shiny chrome:-D :bow: ............I can only find brown! :-D

May just take the dog along anyway, bite marks on Romans artifacts always raise human interest and therefore the value.....

Well I think its all very interesting Clive, never been interested or thought of getting one before, but now I'm getting the bug, I will be checking them out at boot fairs now, usually see a couple. Are terrier sized headphones available to save me all that digging?..........

Very interesting, thanks for the link.

Robin Craig posted this link in another thread, it explains very nicely the problem with removing the rubber couplings that go between the engine and gearbox, and why they where put there by Scammell designers. http://www.satrep.co.uk/scorpiontankcouk/Gearbox.htm Particularly this bit....In practice many of these potential harmonic vibrations are eliminated by the proximity of other components having different frequencies Rubber has a very different frequency than metal, that's why it works in engine mountings, greatly reducing the vibrations transmitted to the chassis. Unfortunately many power transmission drive trains do not benefit from this inherent advantage - components are often manufactured from similar materials, Now look at the lovely picture..:-)

Thanks for the info Doug, I suppose the cars kept going because oily internal parts where still good, dunno what the answer is, even fibreglass cars have metal hinges..

Remember it is a constant mesh box so you are turning a lot of gears with cold oil on them, new oil seals as well? it will drag much more in any neutral except between 1st and 2nd, (when only the output dog clutch is engaged) and it has yet to settle in. Had a similar thing with my gearbox, it did not turn very freely at first, it dragged slightly in one place like an oval brake drum. I was worried about this as I had put some bearing retainer in to stop the bearing outers turning, and thought this might have set too quickly before I'd tightened the box together and squeezed a bearing. But a bearing would be tight all the time, not intermittent, so it must have been a miss matched gear or spline, it would only have to be a couple of thou or so out. I drilled a flat bar to fit the flanges with a long bolt through the end and used this to turn the gearbox, from both ends, gave it a vigorous wizz up every time I passed it. it freed up a lot after a while doing that, but was not absolutely perfect, me being too picky I suspect. When I first drove it I imagined that I could hear this but it soon went away and the box is very quiet, or else I've gone completely deaf!

Not needed at all, just a lot of interfering jobsworths ,:stop: why can't they leave the poor motorist alone? :box: ............:whistle: Something went wrong...

Not sure about MKs Robin, but when Scammell Explorers and most other heavy military tractors/wreckers brakes are connected to a towed vehicle or one or more trailers, or a double headed train, the combined braking system automatically applies the rearmost vehicles brakes first, so all vehicles in a train are braked in sequence from the rear, controlled by the front drivers foot,... dashed clever stuff! The hand reaction valve only applies the trailer/towed vehicle brakes but not the wreckers, useful in many ways apart from saving one set of cool brakes, 50s drum brakes can fade like hell!

Perhaps you should get down to the Cuckoo Fair at Laughton with your camcorder to get some footage in the can!

you're welcome Andy, though it wasn't advice, more like copy and paste, son of Forcefuls been scampering up and down the drive today!

Mine had the same problem, all OK now though..

Thinking about this, I often get flash player popping up with updates, if you don't get these this bit might be the answer, Temporarily disable pop-up blocking software installed on your computer, to test. Allow youtube.com?hl=en_GB as a trusted site in your Firewall software. Ensure that other applications such as QuickTime, iTunes, Real Player or Windows Media Player aren't set as the default streaming application, as this might affect the video player.

Have a look at this Andy, flashplayer may need updating, http://www.google.com/support/youtube/bin/answer.py?answer=56115

Great fun can be had if the casualty is much longer than the towing vehicle, the need for the rear driver to swing out right for a tight left hander may not be allowed for..:sleep:.. choice words from the towee and a pole at right angles to the direction of travel may result!:argh: If there are railings or pedestrians on the corner this of course doubles the fun.. :box:

Yes, agree cosrec, important stuff this, easily goes wrong. Having been towed a fair few miles on a pole on three occasions, (30 very odd hilly miles once, the joys of petrol Scammell ownership) I would say the the worst thing is having almost no forward vision, especially when passing parked cars and such, you just don't know whats coming. I would never tow or be towed on a pole without the brakes hoses being connected to the casualty and crossed over the pole to stop them dragging on the ground, and the taps opened. Using the casualties brakes via the reaction brake lever of the towing vehicle for most of the braking keeps things in line down hill, is very effective and saves the front vehicles nice cool brakes for emergencies. It certainly can be a very stressful experience, even more so if one is aware of what can go wrong...(and if you're not you shouldn't be doing it), and one which should last as short a time as possible.

I didn't post the rest of this clip here before (keeping it Crossley) but here it is, looks like he's pulling away from you Nick! Something went wrong...

Doh, and I did speak to Tom very briefly as they where leaving the seafront, but had not made the connection when I posted that, William can be seen in my Crossley video too..

The FWD was the first past us at Clayton, around 9.30 ish, didn't manage to get any video though.