gritineye

Most of us are lying down so it don't matter..

Thanks for pointing out the pressing need for a certificate to be awarded to Robert for his outstanding work Andy, as you know the committee has been considering this for some time...but you know how slow these old fogies are sometimes....I nudged them awake this morning and to find they had been unusually busy!

When you've got it safely on blocks, front wheels chocked, how about applying the brakes one side (ratchet strap across the top of the walking beam) that will get the diff working might slosh the oil around in there better and warm it up quicker too.

How about putting some cheap detergent engine oil in it and running it jacked up for a while then drain?

Agree with Zero-five-two on this, a good flush out and oil change while hot is what I would do, the rough edges you found on the crown wheel show some wear took place when it had no pump to cool it.

All the best mate, and try to stop grinning all day... this is a serious step you're taking... Bernard, Cas and Forceful..

Two caps, two Ts over here please Jack.

I blocked my relief valves up, they were very weak, made sense to me, I suppose they where meant to stop the oil pressure bursting the seals, (book says use oil) a bit late for that now! Bearings running in oil are supposed to last longer than ones in grease, but no way of keeping it in any more. Funny thing all this greasing lark, the grease is always flung out, but the last bit would surely stay in the cups, like swinging a bucket of water, and a sealed for life UJ never has more than that much in it from new. The galleries inside the Scammell UJ are very large, presumably to hold a nice lot of oil to cool and counter seepage, so it takes a huge amount of grease to purge the bearings. If the galleries where smaller, say 3mm then the small amount of grease in them would not have the same weight and centripetal forces would have a lot less wasteful effect! So, I reckon all the grease except the bit in the cups has gone in the first mile, you do the rest of your 50 miles between grease ups with empty galleries, and could most likely do many hundreds more. Seems to me UJs designed for grease have smaller galleries, so it only takes a few pumps to purge them, and it is not flung out, so all this grease pumping is a bit silly really........but it gives us something to do :nut:

Yep... know the problem, most people today only have experience of old Explorers, which have been well used and abused, so when they say 'Oh they're all like that' it doesn't help at all! I'm sure you know all this, but It does help to remember that the speed limit for these vehicles at the time they where built was 20 mph, try driving below that speed for a bit, you will be amazed how (relatively) refined it all is. Then think that they wouldn't have gone too far without a good load on tow which calms down the manic rattles, and you get the idea that you are most likely driving it too fast....having said that I tend to do the same speed you do, and after years of tinkering I can now hold a conversation..:shocked: Achilles heels, rear prop, rear hubs loosening and rubber couplings, if your prop is not 'as new' in all respects think about getting a new one, owners who have done this say that with modern seals they don't loose all the lube every 100 yards...always a bonus. When greasing your (old) prop UJs make sure grease emits from all four journals every time, grease it every time you move it! Can't remember if you have rubber couplings but if so wrap them round with wire a few times to hold the rubbers in place if they come loose, and keep an eye on them every time you go out.. Rear drums, check regularly they haven't moved, paint lines across ends of nuts as a guide, after a while you will be confident they are tight and can relax. Other than that make sure the noises aren't coming from all the various rods and linkages rattling about under the floor, cab panels buzzing against the frame, dog growling, passengers screaming etc. all basic stuff really

Perhaps those Neanderthals weren't so backward using antler picks, to this day Time Team have never found evidence of an explosion in one of their flint mines......

He has got one now, but thanks for the offer.

Quality sheds, show offer, free felt roof....... Seen today

People working with inflammable substances, explosives etc. I reckon.

Used to be with orange a few years ago, had similar problems to yours and orange where completely useless, remote BT line tests said the line was fine, I disagreed. I was told that I would have to pay some exorbitant sum for a call out if no fault was found..it turned out to be one of their nearby underground junction boxes full of water! The chap found it in about 5 mins. no charge. I had checked and re checked every thing in my house, it had to be their line in. Changed to O2, totally different attitude there, speed went up from around 1 to 1.5 meg to 7.5 to 8 meg on the same line that BT said would only carry 2 meg, and cheaper! Result

Brilliant...all project targets met, and with some style..:bow:

pm sent

Cast iron one would be fine as my mates ally one has corroded through, PM me for contact number.

So no fear of ripping the guts out of the gearbox with that Meadows, so that's alright then! Whining is fine......Explorer musac Good fix, glad it worked.... happy Scammelling!

It seems to me the output shaft end float is controlled by the ball bearing in the gearbox, therefore all the components, flange, inner race of the roller bearing, gear, distance piece, inner race of the ball bearing, and washer, should all be preloaded by the nut (bolt in your case) against the step in the shaft. In theory, I think the only way there would be any end float is if the roller bearing is worn, I have just had a look at a really kn*ckered shaft here and the bearing is still very good, so I doubt that is your problem, all a bit puzzling. I suspect this many parts all prone to wear on one shaft is the source of the spline problem in the first place, not a good idea really.

Just a thought, but I'm sure you know this, there shouldn't be any end float at all on the flange, maybe wise to check that nothing is burred over and jamming (as with all splined parts, best to mark and refit in the same position because of wear) and that the end of the shaft is below the end face of the flange before gooing it on, as it can get worn behind the washer. The goo will take up the spline wear, but if something is stopping the flange being pressed hard against the bearing to keep it square, because of the worn splines, some run-out and wobble may result. And nobody wants a wobbly flange. After is is gooed on this will be very difficult to cure, so a dry run to check wouldn't hurt. Perhaps some wise person on here knows the allowable run-out?

Well that's interesting, I now wonder if mine had a similar problem, it's the only cause that makes sense. Good fix...

Just caught up with this what a bummer , I have an unopened 660 you can have just Pm me your address

Photoscape is free and has some useful features, it can do single image or batch resizing, and is simple to use. http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/screenshot.php

Lovely Job well done, a very interesting MV, looks just great, dents and all..:thumbsup:

Ah the first run big fixed grin, I remember it well, nothing like it well done! :thumbsup: