gritineye

Thanks for fixing that and all the other :computerrage: problems Joris, your free stress relieving Scammell driving session is booked, just turn up whenever you get a chance..:drive:

Can scan some pages and email but the manual is 1 1/2" thick very thin pages too!

The manifold one may be provision for ether hook up. having a look at your pix to try identifying the rest.

Pipes from oil filter will be JAKE BRAKE OIL FEED and probably goes to the head, maybe via an oil valve solenoid operated by the dash switch.

Looking at that engine Nick, looks like it is an internally damped type. i would have thought that a pulley on the fan drive shaft would drive a fan using a support like mine.

Original pump just can't keep up at low revs of roading or shunting about, no probs at all with my Cummins off a tractor unit which I understand is bigger output than a rigid.

The tube seems to be a metering device, if it was not there the flow rate would have to be much higher, the gear needles get a constant small amount with an extra pusle each time the holes coincide, so the oil pressure is maintained throughout the hollow shaft and tube (and the entire system), and a constant flow is maintained to the end spigot bearing which takes a lot more load as it supports the shaft. The dog clutches, gears, and other bearings are lubricated by splash, squirt, and oil dragged up from the sump and the 'sumpletts' towards the rear of the casing below the gears.

Perhaps it would be best to take the box apart and check it out, it really isn't hard at all just follow the book, no special tools needed..http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?7123-Scammell-Explorer-fixes-and-workarounds/page3

Common problem, the tube has seized in the shaft due to getting hot and expanding, (it is a close fit, notice the blueing) this is probably because the plug has fallen out, letting the oil pass through without any pressure in the tube to force it out through the side holes, I'm sure there should be two holes

I didn't find this turning the sump job easy at all, the problem being positioning the pickup pipe within the sump pan. The pipe is quite big and slightly flared so that when the sump is fitted it pushes onto a short spigot piece that is held in the block by O rings. Accuracy is needed to get the height right and get the sump bolts are to line up and there is very little room to make a turn in the pipe and lengthen it to get go into the sump, and welding warps the pipe. After I had finished mine I realized that all I could have just taken a hole cutter and made a large hole below the spigot, refit the pan, push the pipe on, modify it to go down to the sump externally, fill the hole round it with a circle of sheet metal and it's done. Do all welding with the pan fitted to the engine to prevent distortion. All this should tell you that getting a correct sump pan is by far best the way to go in the first place, you may have more luck than me but I never found one, probably best to spend more time looking than doing the work!

I have a very cunning/simple/cheap way to change the pickup pipe when you reverse the sump....:cool2:

Not one of these anywhere is there? http://www.doocu.com/pdf/read/29344 Scroll down the manual

Hope you got that switch!

Now these are hard to find, and finish an Explorer off nicely, won by any one we know?..scroll down the page. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250754163628&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123

Agree with Mike on this prop-shaft thing, to my mind rubber vibration damping is needed in the link between engine and gearbox, Scammells had the choice and chose rubber after using UJs early on. However quite a few Explorer owners swear by their prop-shaft conversions, but I suspect that if any of them with high torque engines did any serious mileage pulling a propper load, then they would soon have needle bearing failure of some sort, the engineering is just wrong in my opinion. But going to a few shows a year and keeping a close eye on things like most of us do, a prop-shaft will most likely do the job OK for years.

I some cases sanity is in the eye of the beholder......Antar......Explorer........Antar........hmmm.......just can't make up my mind!..:-D

This has just been re-listed, it was £400.00 starting bid last time..http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/scammell-explorer-brand-new-gearbox-couplings-x2_W0QQitemZ250757898028QQcategoryZ122309QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D250754099737%252B250754099737%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6390916251059317921 Maybe everyone is going to the propshaft option these days.

Don't tell us you've found some of those rocket launched scotches you've been after?

Almost fell asleep.. until that very bizarre moment when a bloke pops up out of the top of the loco at 5.54....:shocked:

:rofl:

Sorry but I'm not too sure how many entries are you saying are wrong? How should that entry should read now, what exactly would you like me to put there? Is there another pic of your Explorer on here?

I think maybe they used two pigs, or else the continuity person was not keeping an eye on the sign writer...

Moon and stars Nick, soon have em lined up..

Front mount bracket can be changed easily, I hadn't seen that type so modified mine which uses two rubber mountings, not so neat at all... Keep pushing hards with the van mate, you've got a lot to do at home...

That engine has the type of front mount you need, and the vertical mounting faces cast on the clutch housing are good (some are sloping) , but the fixed fan mount is a problem, the belt driven one is easily moved up to suit the rad cowl.