Richard Farrant

Hi Hardypig, I have seen a manifold for a B60 with twin SU carbys, is that any good?

Hardyferret, I think Clive is a little worried that your projected modifications could make your Pig faster than his :whistle:

Neil, Not sure if I suggested this before, but these engines were known to produce a knock, which could be taken as an end going, when what it actually was, was the bolt / starting handle dog, which secures the crank pulley being loose. This in turn clamps the crank sprocket in place against No. 1 Main bearing journal. The knock was due to the sprocket rocking on the drive key, with the on-off load of the camshaft. Worth checking before going any further, just jam a block of wood between the crank and crankcase in order to tighten the pulley firmly.

Thrust washers? That is the main bearing, I thought you were asking about big ends? Sounds like it is a later, 5 bearing block, if you mean No.3 main.

Neil, Loosen the big end cap nuts off and gently tap them on the end to drive the bolts back slightly, you will find the caps will come loose then. The bolts and nuts are reusable, but check that the bolts are not stretched at the waisted parts, usually visible. Have you felt any excess movement before loosening the nuts off?

Hi Hardyferret/pig, I have used normal unshielded plugs in a "B range" engine belonging to a customer, cannot remember what it was at present, but I used the same plug as specified for the fire engine applications, which I think, is Champion N8, but will have to check that out first. The spark should be better as the screened sheilding produces an effect that weakens the spark, Clive will remember the term for it. I have done this on other screened vehicles and the result is so much better, especially if using plugs like Champion Gold Palladium or NGK Copper Core, because they have a wider heat range and do not foul so readily.

Neil, Having looked after hundred's of these L/Rovers for Her Majesty's Forces, I can tell you the easiest way to do a crank job is to pull the engine out. If you remove the transmission, flywheel and housing, there is nothing to support the rear of the engine, then the timing cover has to come off and there is nothing to support the front end. At least when it is out and turned on its side, the job is much quicker and easier to do.

Jack, I always go with the MVT on their tour, nothing better than being with a good group of like minded people all on the same ferry and then convoying to the campsite. I believe the MVT tour is to be either 2 weeks, taking in 3 different campsites across the region, or optional 1 week to encompass D-Day. Rejoin and get your name down quick!

This sounds like the body along with a Morris Commercial C8 cab chassis that was sold in Kent a few years ago to someone in the Gloucestershire area. That one definitely had the gen compartment louvres.

Too much information :whistle:

Just had a call from my friend, who has driven his Ferret back to the South Coast tonight after the parade. Apparantly everything went well, thankfully the weather stayed fine.

That is very true about BMP-1. We had one come in to REME workshops about 1989-90 for extensive engine work and at 6'1", I found it a difficult vehicle to get in, why do they make them so damn small?

It keeps the staff on their toes, Jack :whistle:

Be prepared for flying bricks and bottles coming in your direction as people pass the display.....to keep it authentic you understand :whistle:

Looks like it is "Condenser Man", off to check the stalls for EMER's and AESP's Sorry Clive

Jack, Good advert for HMVF in the latest Classic Military Vehicle, hope it brings along some more new members.

Apparantly the event is down on vehicle numbers, a friend has just been contacted today (Monday) and the Army are going to pick up his vehicle tomorrow (Tuesday). He invited me to crew for him, but have had to decline due to work commitments and short notice.

Gareth, I had one of those from new, a 1979 V50 MkII, cracking bike, light and easy to handle, used it every day for 10 years, traded in for a new V65, biggest mistake I ever made, because that was a dissapointing machine.

Mick, A good sign of failing condensers, is burnt contacts, so if you have a new distributor fitted then the points should be in good order, if not then 10 to 1 its condenser. As Clive will tell you, brand new condensers off the shelf, can be suspect, especially if they are old stock types. It is quite a common problem, with older vehicles were the new spares stock can have been a good number of years on the shelf.

Jack, That is what is known as a "field mod." :goodidea:

Back in the 1980's I went to one of the Air Tattoos at Greenham Common (before the missiles were there). We were all queuing for the Gents. It had a large hessian screen surrounding it, when you arrived at the screen you were confronted with a bloody great hole in the ground about 10 foot across and everyone was standing around the edge p**ing in it. A guy rushed in, obviously desperate, nearly fell in :-D I dread to think what the sit down facilities were like

George, I had some of that jerrican paint and it was glossy, so not much you can do unless you can get hold of Matting Agent from a paint supplier. Probably easier to get another tin of paint.

George, Are you brush painting the new paint? If you spray it, depending on how much thinners, etc. it may come out more to your liking. What does it describe the finish as on the tin? Matt, semi-matt, eggshell, gloss?

Beltring 1987 Jim Baxter's Chev C8A HUP followed by Rod Pattle's Morris Commercial C8GS

Here are a few from the first IMPS show at Beltring, in 1987. This one is the arena, then up by the main road where stalls are now. The GMC with no7 set belonged to Nigel Hay of Milweb fame, he had "picked up" a WPC who was on duty at the show :whistle: