Richard Farrant

Tim, Would that be a portable font? :whistle:

The shims at "1" are critical and should not be altered. They adjust the depth of mesh of the pinion to the crown wheel.

Right oh, just looking at the parts book and can only think now that it is a problem with the axle. The axle pinion loading the splined shaft in the t/box. Not sure of the set up, but maybe there has to be a precise thickness of gasket between the t/box and axle. If too thin, it loads the transfer box. This possibility is the only thing that would influence both transfer boxes.

Well, I would say that the oil is heating up for some reason, due to friction. I have seen this on Ferret bevel boxes, when the inner tracta has started to "weld" together, it used to blow oil out of the breather. Trouble is, without stripping, it is hard to guess.

Hi Clive, Look forward to catching up with you. Are you bringing that crazy man, Brobat, with you again

40 years in vehicle engineering this year. First seven years.............Started of as an apprentice at an Agricultural Engineers, got my Agricultural Engineering Technician certificate. In 1974 , my employer closed the depot, so went to work at a REME Command Workshop as a vehicle fitter, later fitter/chargehand, stayed there for 22 years, when it closed. Started my own business doing restoration and repair work of military vehicles for collectors, museums, etc, in the following week from leaving REME and have been doing so for last 11 years now.

Special Project, normally used by FVRDE, MVEE, RARDE, etc.

That will teach you :-D encourgaging people to buy more vehicles. :whistle:

Just like they were after leaving REME workshops then :whistle:

The track normally fitted to CVR(T), is known a "live", track and with the hex trackpins and bushes, , each link is angled up a few degrees, so it has a wrapping action. This tends to make the track follow the idlers and sprockets, where the old type steel track ( as on Carriers, Cents, etc ) would fling out by centrifugal force when moving at speed. The CVR(T), does have a problem with track fouling the sponson (?) and hull sides, but I think a mod was done to fit wear plates to the sides. This rubber track would fling out more than ever and the friction on the hull would not be acceptable. No problem with the conventional tracks, just that the design of the vehicle does not allow better clearance, all due to the need to keep a low profile.

Neil, It is good to be able to actually see what the fault is, hope you get it running.

Would that have been an ex-army MJR drilling rig? Used to work on a few from RE Bomb Disposal, they had the 500 engine fitted, and needed it with all the equipment on it.

Neil, You say no spark at plug, have you actaully checked to see if there is feed to the ignition, before the black box and also at the points? Condensors do not usually fail completely, my guess is that it is something simple.

Neil, It is over 11 years since I was regularly working on these older Rovers, but I do seem to think there was a flexy armoured oil pipe from the sump, adjacent to the oil temp sender and drain plug. Thinking on, there must have been only one fitting on spacer between filter and block. Not sure what you mean about a tapping by thermostat housing, that sounds like a water connection, no oil pressure galleries up top except rocker feed. :dunno:

Jack, Do you belong to RAC or AA? Their legal people are often helpful in cases of this sort.

Neil, I was wondering if it was a clutch problem, but never gave it a thought that it was a 2a clutch, at least its in. Oil cooler...............very distant memory, used to build heaps of these engines, all variations, am I correct in thinking that there is a spacer between the oil filter head and block, with pipe fitting for hoses to cooler attached? If so you only need swap this spacer over and utilise the longer bolts. Now I cant remember whether you wanted cooler fitted or not :dunno:

Mick, Undo the castleated nut on the drive flange, pull the flange off, I think you will need a puller here. Then remove pinion assembly, as Andy said, be careful with the shims as they give correct depth of mesh. The seal should be able to be hooked out without further stripping. I feel certain that the seal is a standard commercial size, parts list not to hand at present, but failing that try Richard Banister. Make sure the seal path on the drive flange is not pitted or rusty, something must have damaged the seal lip for it to leak. Off course it might be wise to check the breather first, in case it is stuck and pressurising in the box blew the oil from the seal.

Neil, Sorry, I missed your comment on the previous post, re, using a pry bar in the gap at the top. It way be worth trying that to even it up, before going to the trouble of removing the mounts.

Mick, You should be able to remove the drive flange, then the pinion sleeve which is held on by nuts, watch out for shims under the sleeve. The drive flange will probably need a puller to remove.

Hi Neil, I was hoping to peg out our site and get away quick, but it ended up with meeting several old friends, so was a bit late getting away from there. Sorry I missed you, will catch up next week. I feel sure the mountings may be restricting you by not allowing the front of the engine to drop a little, this would cause a wider gap at bottom on bell housing. Another thought that just occured, is the clutch plate aligned with the spigot bearing? With a gap of only around half inch, then it is the shaft not entering the bearing. Thought you might have been working on the Rover.

Neil, Doubtful, unless you have tried to close the gap by tightening the nuts. What you have to watch is distorting the drive plate by getting the whole lot out of line, this ends up with a dragging clutch if not careful. Might see you tomorrow if you are marking out! Richard

Neil, Normally, you leave the front rubber mounts out, that allows the engine to be manouvered in to the gearbox without interference. My guess is that the first motion shaft is trying to enter the spigot bearing. For this it has to be dead square. You could try putting the gearbox back in neutral and turning the engine over, but first try and lift or support the rear of the engine as well as having a jack under the gearbox. This may allow it to self align, what ever you do do not try to pull in with nuts, just screw them on enough that the engine does not slip out.

Apprentice project :-D gave them 500 hacksaw blades and told them not to come back until they had used them all up :whistle:

M10 weighs around 27 tons (61,000 pounds according to Bart's book).

Jack, This is an important point, strapping the steering wheel with the front wheels in straight ahead position was to be done spot on, else the tyres will "scrub" as it is trying to be dragged straight. This will undoubtably cause the wheel centre to flex and induce the chance of nuts loosening. Check the other front tyre for scrubbing or uneven wear compared to normal. I think if this is proven, with a qualified engineers report, the recovery firm would have to admit to negligence.