Ron

Tom yes it's a PU8/4. Robinson's Engineering in Ferndown did the work but they have now closed down. The whole job was a nightmare as I had to remove and return the engine to them four times. Give them their due, they didn't hesitate to send a truck to collect the engine from my house each time and eventually the engine was rebuilt properly and the culprit machinist was sacked. The whole sorry tail was spread over more than a year. It's as sweet as a nut now though. Ron

So you haven't found the cause of the knocking yet? My own Morris engine (6 cyl) was not knocking but was very low on oil pressure and I had to get all the white metal bearings renewed. Also valves, guides, springs, camshaft bearings, new O/S pistons and re-bore, skim head and block and other work. My old and replacement head gaskets are copper asbestos. Total cost....over five grand.....Phew!! Ron

My name is RON. Sorry perhaps I should have stayed out of it! RON

PM= Private Message. Done through the form. If you click on your name, I think it should lead you to the message service. Ron

This is the early BSA type number plate. Here seen on a C10 but about the same as an early M20. Ron

The throttle stop screw is just that. The further you screw it in the further it stops the throttle slide from descending and increases your tick-over speed. I think you'll find that by the year of manufacture of your bike, number plates were deleted. The number plates as fitted to the earlier deluxe models require a totally different front guard with a spot welded channel to hold the number plate. Ron

Correct and I think you are getting the same advice over on the M20 site. Ron

By zooming in on your picture, I'm sure I can see that your mag cable enters at the rear of the mag near the battery. In which case you have a correct tight wire advance. So advance by pulling the lever towards you. Always assuming that you have the correct type lever, and not the type fitted to Ariel W/NG's. The points on an M20 will rotate clockwise. I'm just confirming what Rik says. Ron

Yep that's me in the middle of the first two shots, with yellow scarf. Here is the video that Preston took of the GWR run (hopefully)..........Don't fall asleep. Ron

Mine is from an RAF contract in 1943 and has the 'type 1 1/2' frame. There was no real means to fix the square tool box. I just extended a couple of brackets from the battery carrier. Sometimes artistic licence prevails. One thing about not having that tool box in place. It makes adjusting the primary chain a darn site easier. Ron

Yes Steve, I've always assumed that the date stamp was the build date of the frame. Then probably the frame number was added at the build time of the complete bike. Not sure though?? Ron

Hello Ed. Hello Ian. Robert until you can find a copy of the book Ed mentioned. Your bike is the 1135th bike from contract C8886 for 3000 built Oct 44- Feb 45. I calculate your tank census number as C4855314. Your engine is from the previous contract S5340. For some reason, Triumph numbered the engines 10.000 ahead of the frame number. As Ian said there is a date on top of the saddle tube which starts TEC (Triumph Engineering Co). It's strange because the census numbers for this contract follow on from a contract in 1942, with all other contracts since having higher numbers than yours? Maybe there was some confusion or hold ups in the system after the factory was bombed in 1940 and then the move to temporary premisses in Warwick and another move to the Meriden works??? Ron

Can I direct you to Jan Vandevelde, who has a register for Royal Enfield's and literature beyond belief. wd.register(at)gmail.com Jan will also be pleased to add your bike details to his register. Here is a page from his excellent report and an expanded extract from my own workshop manual. The rectangular toolbox was deleted after the first contract for WD/CO's. Personally I didn't like the horrible gap it left, so I fitted one anyway. Ron

I can't say I've ever seen it. But Griffo's reasoning makes sense. I know sand cast cases can be porous. Ron

It might pay to put a shout on the Artillery page. I'm not sure if Rob Nixon and other artillery experts watch here. Ron

All the companies mentioned should know the correct spokes for your wheels. The dimples in the rims are also pierced at the correct angles for whatever hub they are attached to. I had a very successful encounter last year with 'Devon Rims' for new rims and spokes for my BSA/Indian special. Ron

Try a google search for "Devon Rims" and "Brickwood Wheels" Ron

Sad news. I don't think I've seen Bernard since one of the last Kemble shows in his 8cwt Humber. Fond memories too of the winter sort outs at his place. Ron

I don't think you can make that comparison! With an old hard rubber tyre that has been blown up for years and a new soft rubber tyre that hasn't yet been inflated. Ron

OK I'll mention it to a friend. Ron

You haven't mentioned a price? Ron

A bit late with a follow up to this thread I know. But I now realise that the Velocette MAF also seems to have left the factory with a black exhaust system. Ron

Yep it's the only reason I don't fire my 2 pounder!....... I hate all that cleaning after. Ron (looking for the tongue in cheek smiley)

Lovely Job Rob! Here's one from the first war. Amazing what a difference just a few years can make. Ron

Here are the trigger box measurements and close up shot:- 'U' 25.7mm 'T' 42mm 'S' 160mm. Ron