Ron

Thanks for the replies. Nick at Jeffrey Engineering is sorting me out with parts......Most helpful and obliging guy. Ron

Does anyone know where I can obtain a NOS original synchromesh from, for my 42 Willys Jeep. Ron

Simon I quite like the flood lamp change over switch idea as my own Jeep is British. Have you got original data/specification for what you have fitted? Ron

I couldn't bring myself to use stickers or magnetics. I've done loads now with the low tack stencils and rattle cans. With care you can even cope with the double curvature of motorcycle tanks. Ron

I get all mine from:- http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ You need to quote what vehicle and markings and locations for a more concise answer to sizes. Ron

Andy the air/mag levers I showed are not quite right for you as they have the pivot clamps and not the standardised saddle clamps. I visit the Kempton and Shepton jumbles on a regular basis and can advice that you are only likely to pick up levers in dribs and drabs over several visits........Unless you are luckier than most of us. But feel free if you like driving on the M1 and M25. There is a guy in Cairo called Hussein who has lots of lever parts. He's a bit difficult to deal with as they don't have paypal in Egypt yet. But I can vouch for him. Mention my name if you want. sl_hussein@yahoo.com Ron Pier

Oil debates can get long and winding. But I keep it simple in my collection by using Morris's SAE 30 in my vehicles and Morris's SAE 40 in my motorcycles. Gearboxes are according the the manufactures lube charts. I know that EP (Extreme Pressure) gear oils have additives that can be harmful to bronze bushings. Ron

OK Andy, it's a while since I worked on a Triumph, but I now have a funny feeling that the handlebar clamps have a BSF thread. They won't be Whitworth, so don't tap anything through till you're sure. I collected this complete set of 1" levers in readiness for restoring my 3HW, before I realised it had 7/8" bars. So I had to start all over again. The air and mag levers are the standard Amal type with a saddle clamp and two screws. I have noted the chain spec down as:- Rear 5/8" x 3/8" x 90 links. Primary 1/2" x 5/16" x 74 links. One of the most knowledgeable and nicest person to buy chains from is Jane at http://www.sprocketsunlimited.com/ Ron

This is mentioned in the classified section by Dave. But I thought it was worth reiterating here. So if anyone is interested, check out the classified section for more info and Dave's contact details. Ron I've been in discussion with a manufacturer that can make the "Not Available" centre (long) suspension band for the Flying Flea . Hitchcock Motorcycles claim they are the same size as the small band and just need the width narrowing ...........they are not . The photo I have attached is of both small and long suspension band , the long one is an original very kindly loaned to me for comparison , as you can see there is a difference , the difference is 18mm . The manufacturer can make these too the exact spec as the original ,the drawback is I have to order a minimum of 50 . I have had some definites of people wanting these and was hoping to gauge the interest with some more definites before I go ahead with getting these made as the cost to me is £475.00 inc vat which equates to £9.50 each , all I'm trying to do is cover the cost and provide the correct band for all the Flea owners so I'll sell these for what it costs me. Hopefully there will be enough interest . If anyone is interested please pm me with the amount you want so I can decide whether to go ahead with it or not . Thanks Dave

Andy what contract is your bike from? From memory the last three contracts of 3HW's were fitted with "standardised" handlebar and controls. So the original 1" Triumph bars were replaced with M20 type 7/8" bars and Amal controls. I have the illustrated parts list for these bikes but it still shows the same illustration as the earlier bikes, with the pivot type clamps to the air/mag levers, which is not correct for the later bikes. The valve lift lever is also shown in a strange place, but I guess it's just for display purposes. Ron PS most of the fixings will be BSC (26 tpi cycle thread) Course Whitworth threads into ally etc. You can buy cheap UK made zinc plated fixings here:- http://www.nookysnuts.com/

Leighton's will do it in a sympathetic modern vinyl. http://www.rk-leighton.co.uk/ Ron

Funnily enough, I've recently been reading this up. I have several books on CO's and there are different versions of the answer. From grease to SAE 50??? I've always used SAE 50 and so has my mate Ted who is an outright RE man. But I have just started topping up my 'G' gearbox with 140.......Can't hurt and might slow the leeks a bit. The Burman boxes in Matchless's use a semi fluid grease, which you can buy from Morris's or someone or google it. But it shouldn't be used in gearbox's that require oil, just to slow the leeks........Nor should EP oils be used in our boxes. Ron

I stand corrected. Ron

Jenk in a trip from Bournemouth (where I live) To Herriot country........What the Hell where you doing in Guildford man? Ha Ha only joking! I went to Bedale to pick up a car last year. If I never see that bloody M1 again, I wont miss it! Once there though, I found Northallerton to be quite quaint and picturesque . Ron

Likewise I first met him at those Bovy do's in the 80's and we were all well used to his outspoken manner. Lately I've been bumping into him at motorcycle jumbles. Despite the fact that he ran over someone's car with one of those ex Iraqi tanks he was still one of the few who was allowed to drive the Rolls Royce armoured car. A definite Brylcream biker bloke and as said "another character gone" Ron

I always start by turning the pilot screw out 1 1/2 turns. I have the same problem with my well used CO And G. Oil weeps from the kick start shafts, which will probably need re-bushing on the next overhaul. My G also leeks from the drive end main shaft bearing, which I'll probably replace with a sealed bearing at some point. In the mean time, I just keep them topped up and try not to park on posh block paving. Ron

Triumph parts for singles is always difficult. I would first try Les at Russell Motors (phone only) 020 72281714, mention my name if you want. Or maybe his brother Geoff on gjmyers@mac.co They still have some NOS 3HW stuff. Ron Pier

PS. I suggest you obtain all the correct parts and then fit the wheel to the forks. If as you say the rim is too far over one way. You will need to have the offset adjusted. If the spoke nipples are seized? You might be able to get them to move with heat from a blow lamp. Otherwise you will probably have to get it re-spoked. The adjustment is best done in the forks to get it central. Ron

Andy. Here is a scan from a parts list showing the order of parts. Also a couple of not very helpful shots of my wheel. Best I can measure the spindle through the spokes, is 6"-6.5". I bought the 'German' desert paint from 'Jeep Parts UK' as I didn't like the primrose yellow that was offered as 'British desert' colour. It's a stone colour! Ron

Andy It sounds maybe that your wheel offset is wrong. Tomorrow I will try and give some measurements and more info. Ron

Yep! Me and a friend left Goodwood Revival on our bikes to go to a pub for an evening meal. The pub was about 10 miles away and we arrived via the main A27. Our common sense dictated that we shouldn't return by that main road after dark, so the landlord gave us directions by means of country lanes......One of the most horrifying rides of my life. Followed closely by driving my Tilly with its Butler blackouts, back to Bournemouth from Southampton Studio's at night on the main A31. Ron

Yes I agree with both Richard and Tony...... Lighting up time means,... "when ever lights are required by law". So even in daytime if visibility is poor. ( Although it doesn't seem to apply to quite a lot of drivers on motorways it seems). But by the same token, if your vehicle has old fashioned carbide lamps and the law says they must work! I don't think there can be any degree of illumination requirement. I also agree that from a safety point of view it must be better to have huge bright lights, but there is also an allowance for vehicles to perform the way they were built......Like the little slit lamps on Jeeps for instance. I try not to ride any of my bikes after lighting up time whether I have a BO mask or not, as the lights are never as good as modern lights. Ron

Before the MOT rules changed to give us MOT exception for our pre 60 vehicles, you could obtain a 'DAYLIGHT' MOT for a vehicle with no lights. (Like a trials bike for instance). So the same rules must apply. Lots of WD bikes are fitted with BO masks, including some of mine.......As long as you don't get caught riding your bike when lighting up is required, I can't see a problem. Ron

JJ Cables on 01926651470. Best to quote them the lengths of your inner and outer cables Mark. Just to be sure. Ron

Jenk unfortunately I can't see the number on my float chamber without removing it. But it really makes no difference as long as it's a vertical float bowl. There are all sorts of angled bowls for OHV bikes, but in your case it should be without any angle on the banjo fitting. My workshop manual quotes a 107 needle jet with a 120 main jet fitted to it. Unfortunately my 3SW parts list only quotes Triumph number.....Which mean nothing to me!! Ron